At what temp will an engine with water freeze?

[alarmguy]

OK, then you have answered your own question, or were looking for validation.

If your charger idea would work, then why do the winterization?

Because Iowa winters are cold and routinely overnight lows will be -20F and an occasional -30F.

Here is another point. Even if temps only get down to 25F
Since you store the boat for the winter, are you going to chance a power failure or equipment failure because someone doesnt want to bother with the simple easy step of properly preparing the engine for freezing temperatures?

 

[Sumboodie]

Everyone go get rid of that +32 windshield washer fluid you've been carelessly running all summer!

We use -60* here. The "winter" -40* freezes even if it's not even -40*

 

[DriveHard]

It only got down to 30...so feeling a little better. My gauge at my house said 33.

 

[D60]

Here is another point. Even if temps only get down to 25F
Since you store the boat for the winter, are you going to chance a power failure or equipment failure because someone doesnt want to bother with the simple easy step of properly preparing the engine for freezing temperatures?

This is another reason GFCIs aren't preferred in something like a feed/livestock structure. Even the occasional nuisance tripping can become a HUGE deal if not caught promptly

 

[RaymondP]

Some marinas will NOT allow a constant electrical feed to the boat while on the hard throughout the winter months. Assuming this is because of the potential for an electrical fire? Or perhaps to save on their energy bills. Either way, something to consider when selecting your winter storage.

 

[DriveHard]

Some marinas will NOT allow a constant electrical feed to the boat while on the hard throughout the winter months. Assuming this is because of the potential for an electrical fire? Or perhaps to save on their energy bills. Either way, something to consider when selecting your winter storage.

Our marina freezes solid...there will be zero boats there. Over winter mine is kept in an old airplane hanger about 30 minutes north of me - an old friend.

 

[Dave Hess]

This past winter, one night it got down to 0°F here in North AL. I had some 1 liter bottles of water in the trunk of my car that didn't freeze. I wouldn't stress over it. If the boat were exposed to high wind at 28°F my opinion would be different.

Does your area get a lot of snow or just a dusting ?

 

[wavinwayne]

Does your area get a lot of snow or just a dusting ?

It rarely snows. Most of the time it's just a dusting, or freezing rain/ice, like in this picture.

 

[PontiacHO]

28 won’t freeze the block. This time of year drain the block(s) right after each outing. The outdrive(s) drain themselves when raised up off the water. My last inboard had draincocks on either side of the block. Reach down and let it run. Just remember to tighten them before heading out again…

 

[LouC]

My solution is no more raw water cooled I/Os, I have had it here in salt water Long Island for 20 years and I've about had it with the crawling around in the bilge to drain the block. Only outboards from now on.

 

[Snagglefoot]

It’s a nice feeling to have the boat fully winterized.

 

[LouC]

I have long been of the opinion that all cast iron auto-derived inboard gas engines should have at least a half closed cooling system, for the block. Reasons:
1) these engines were designed by GM, Ford or Chrysler to have pressurized cooling systems with antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors
2) pressurized systems allow the engine temp to be closer to the design temp, which promotes longer life and better efficiency, running a GM inboard at 140 degrees is not efficient, nor does it do much for oil dilution by water or fuel
3) the nearly complete elimination of corrosion in the water passages
4) Longer engine life especially in salt water regions, due to better cooling, raw water cooling is inefficient, it allows localized boiling if the water gets over 180*F, which is bad for the cylinder heads
5) far easier to winterize, you can actually hook up the winterizing tank and a bilge pump or live well pump to the tank and then to the muffs for the outdrive or water intake and winterize it far easier than crawling around in the bilge to pull those dang plugs & then rod them out when they get clogged, this method is very risky on raw water cooled engines unless the block is drained first or the 'stat is removed
6) no debris building up inside engine to cause localized overheating and clog the drains!

If I were to re-power this boat, two things it MUST have are a remote oil filter mount and closed cooling. Not as good as an outboard, but acceptable. I would still have to deal with the outdrive in salt water though.