Another Sludge Engine help Question pls. *w/pics*

Man I learned so much here from the diffrent advise, even the don't do nothing comments. Sorry I just don't beleive in don't do nothing and, just drive it till it breaks, when you can at least do something.

I still have not had the time to pull the Valve covers yet. I did put a small extention mirror down in the oil cap fill hole. Seems the sludge was not as bad as I was afraid of at 1st. Now in saying that, I don't feel that any slude is good, and it did have sludge for sure even some a little hard. *UPDATE* - Guess what, now It's actually starting to clear up some where I can see inside. I can see some improvement of the inside metal Heads walls starting to clear up some. For refrence again... I did do 2 oil changes and filter with the Walmaret oil and M1 Ext Perf, and it had the Motor Medic flush just before I got it. As I said a few post ago - "Going to run the one in there for 500 - 600 miles. Then add abottle of Liquid Molys Pro Line Engine Flush. Idle for 15 mins or so, then put the Mobile 1 HM Ext Profromance in for 1500 miles or so. Then a few early 1500 to 2k changes"

I think this was one of the better threads here for any others who want info on this same issue if ever it's looked up. Thanks guys for staying on track and be respectfull of each others diffrence in thoughts. I'll say it again, I appreciate each and every comment here. Any others feel free to post, I promise I'm going to upload some new pics to let everyone see whats going on, the covered in black sludge oil fill hole is now mostly yellowish and you can now see the yellow the metal surfaces inside. I'm certain though, up under the Valve cover is def uglier.
 
@jgscott OP, I know you're already on the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil. But it should be noted that Mobil does offer a different oil that is actually better at cleaning, meets a lot more stringent performance specs, and is available for the same price often. That oil is Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It is basically the flagship oil of the Mobil line-up by ExxonMobil. Here are a few pictures that I stole from various posts by @OVERKILL

View attachment 149419View attachment 149420View attachment 149421

They used the same picture for esso ultron, market general synthetic and mobil super 3000. How can one oil be all 3?
 
They used the same picture for esso ultron, market general synthetic and mobil super 3000. How can one oil be all 3?
Feel free to email ExxonMobil for clarification, as they are the ones who made the PowerPoint slide. But here are my thoughts.

- Market General Fully Synthetic = Mobil Super 3000. Term "Market General Fully Synthetic" isn't a name of the product, but a general explanation of what Mobil Super 3000 is. Therefore the picture is the same. Used in different slides to show progression of other products.

- If you look closely at the "burnt ring ripple effect" on the plate, then you can see the difference in the deposit formation between Esso Ultron VS Mobil Super 3000. Same result overall (63/100), but the ring deposit pattern is slightly different in the lower half of the picture, therefore not the same picture. Very close results though. Wonder if it's the same oil with some "badge engineering" involved.
Screenshots_2023-04-10-13-21-35.jpg
 
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Feel free to email ExxonMobil for clarification, as they are the ones who made the PowerPoint slide. But here are my thoughts.

- Market General Fully Synthetic = Mobil Super 3000. Term "Market General Fully Synthetic" isn't a name of the product, but a general explanation of what Mobil Super 3000 is. Therefore the picture is the same. Used in different slides to show progression of other products.

- If you look closely at the "burnt ring ripple effect" on the plate, then you can see the difference in the deposit formation between Esso Ultron VS Mobil Super 3000. Same result overall (63/100), but the ring deposit pattern is slightly different in the lower half of the picture, therefore not the same picture. Very close results though. Wonder if it's the same oil with some "badge engineering" involved.
View attachment 149737
So the new formulation Mobil 1 0W-40 is not as good as the old formula. New and improved.
 
So the new formulation Mobil 1 0W-40 is not as good as the old formula. New and improved.
I wouldn't exactly jump to that conclusion. Being as old as that presentation is - I'd use it as a reference only. I find it hard to believe that Mobil would cheap out on their flagship oil and start going backwards on quality.
Here is what @High Performance Lubricants said about current Mobil 1 FS 0W40 in a reply to another poster in another thread:
To answer the OP’s question directly there is no question in my mind that the Mobil 1 FS 0w40 is the choice. I don’t say that on speculation. I say that based on my experience looking at the FS 0w40 in our lab. If I was in a spot where I could not get my own oil I would grab that oil to put in any vehicle I own without question.
 
Man I learned so much here from the diffrent advise, even the don't do nothing comments. Sorry I just don't beleive in don't do nothing and, just drive it till it breaks, when you can at least do something.

I still have not had the time to pull the Valve covers yet. I did put a small extention mirror down in the oil cap fill hole. Seems the sludge was not as bad as I was afraid of at 1st. Now in saying that, I don't feel that any slude is good, and it did have sludge for sure even some a little hard. *UPDATE* - Guess what, now It's actually starting to clear up some where I can see inside. I can see some improvement of the inside metal Heads walls starting to clear up some. For refrence again... I did do 2 oil changes and filter with the Walmaret oil and M1 Ext Perf, and it had the Motor Medic flush just before I got it. As I said a few post ago - "Going to run the one in there for 500 - 600 miles. Then add abottle of Liquid Molys Pro Line Engine Flush. Idle for 15 mins or so, then put the Mobile 1 HM Ext Profromance in for 1500 miles or so. Then a few early 1500 to 2k changes"

I think this was one of the better threads here for any others who want info on this same issue if ever it's looked up. Thanks guys for staying on track and be respectfull of each others diffrence in thoughts. I'll say it again, I appreciate each and every comment here. Any others feel free to post, I promise I'm going to upload some new pics to let everyone see whats going on, the covered in black sludge oil fill hole is now mostly yellowish and you can now see the yellow the metal surfaces inside. I'm certain though, up under the Valve cover is def uglier.
You are going to live under that car if doing 1500 mile OCI’s with Mobil 1 EP. What‘s the theory behind that when you have not added HPL EC or something like that which could warrant a short change especially considering a small filter ? … That car has a 3614 size filter ?
 
Ok good stuff. So I am just a basic DIY home gargae oil change guy.

Now some dummy questions? What is MMO?

Is the Mobile 1 High Mileage a good one to use to help some?

I called the guy who got the car for 2 weeks then Sold it to me. He now just a few mins ago tells me he did a Flush with 1/2 can of Motor Medic Motor Flush then changed the oil and filter just 300 miles ago. That worrys me. Said he did because he took it to a Nissan Dealer and they told him it was heavyly sludged. I'm take you guy's advise here. I thought the engine would be ok myself too.

1 more pic attached. View attachment 147818
MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil
 
You are going to live under that car if doing 1500 mile OCI’s with Mobil 1 EP. What‘s the theory behind that when you have not added HPL EC or something like that which could warrant a short change especially considering a small filter ? … That car has a 3614 size filter ?
No I won't don't even drive that car that much. May take me 2-3 months to get 1500 miles.
 
Aquired 2014 Nissan Altima 3.5 V6 with 211k for a Song. Maybe? So I decided what the hell, and got it. I did see the sludge inside the oil cap before I got it. I changed the oil once with a Auto Zone filter and put some Walmart full Sys GDI 5/30 in it. So what should I do? I oil sludgepour in treatment? Or should I just try a few oil chnages and filter with Mobile 1 High mileage, or the Penn Ultra Platinum? Considering droping the pan to clean and screen maybe.

The Pics actually looks worst than they are, if that even makes any sense being it has sludge. I have seen way worst though, I mean way worst. I dont know the story or history other than it looks like it does for a reason, and/or not. The sludge is semi- kinda harden a bit, some of it. What would you guys do? I mean to try and help it some? Thanks.

BTW: I has no other engine issue (not yet), no smoke, no leaks, runs strong, quite and smooth like a top, with Sludge. Drive about 275 total miles and checked, no oil comsumption..... yet. I'll try to take some more pics to post up.View attachment 147812View attachment 147813
BEFORE PICS IN 1st POST /\



*************UPDATE**********

So decided to drive it on a short trip, with miles during the last week and the trip equals about 870 miles total.

From my last post, I changed the oil again. Put in some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 Full Synthetic, Nissan filter, and did a 25 min idleing with some Liquid Moly Pro Line Enige flush. Drained it then put in some Penn Plat Ultra 5-30 again, New Nissan filter, drove the 870 miles total. For reference I did not say this before but I just like Pennzoil. I am in NO way shape or form a Penziol fan boy.

Did look back inside until today. I was kinda shocked. See pic below. Again... thanks for all the what I could do help Guy!

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nice! that sludge must not have been the burned variety, but im still amazed at how clean it is in there
 
There can be only 1 cause for this sludge - extended oil change intervals.
Many people say extended oil changes are safe, and have UOA's to prove it.
But UOA's don't measure sludge accumulation.
Nope.....short trip driving can also cause an oil to degrade rather quickly.
Fuel dilution.
 
BEFORE PICS IN 1st POST /\



*************UPDATE**********

So decided to drive it on a short trip, with miles during the last week and the trip equals about 870 miles total.

From my last post, I changed the oil again. Put in some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 Full Synthetic, Nissan filter, and did a 25 min idleing with some Liquid Moly Pro Line Enige flush. Drained it then put in some Penn Plat Ultra 5-30 again, New Nissan filter, drove the 870 miles total. For reference I did not say this before but I just like Pennzoil. I am in NO way shape or form a Penziol fan boy.

Did look back inside until today. I was kinda shocked. See pic below. Again... thanks for all the what I could do help Guy!

View attachment 151406View attachment 151407View attachment 151411View attachment 151412View attachment 151413View attachment 151414View attachment 151406View attachment 151407View attachment 151411

Way to go.
Lm is some awesome stuff.
 
Aquired 2014 Nissan Altima 3.5 V6 with 211k for a Song. Maybe? So I decided what the hell, and got it. I did see the sludge inside the oil cap before I got it. I changed the oil once with a Auto Zone filter and put some Walmart full Sys GDI 5/30 in it. So what should I do? I oil sludgepour in treatment? Or should I just try a few oil chnages and filter with Mobile 1 High mileage, or the Penn Ultra Platinum? Considering droping the pan to clean and screen maybe.

The Pics actually looks worst than they are, if that even makes any sense being it has sludge. I have seen way worst though, I mean way worst. I dont know the story or history other than it looks like it does for a reason, and/or not. The sludge is semi- kinda harden a bit, some of it. What would you guys do? I mean to try and help it some? Thanks.

BTW: I has no other engine issue (not yet), no smoke, no leaks, runs strong, quite and smooth like a top, with Sludge. Drive about 275 total miles and checked, no oil comsumption..... yet. I'll try to take some more pics to post up.View attachment 147812View attachment 147813
I had luck with motor medic engine flush when I had a tapping under the valve cover. Pretty sure it was a hydraulic lifter sticking. It dissolved, or atleast broke loose, some sludge or deposits apparently.
Never ticked again after that.
Maybe an engine flush to help loosen things up followed by a high ester oil like redline or some additive like rislone to remove deposits through time.
 
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