nobody is noticing that those deposits are on the side that is above exhaust manifold!!!
Before and After Pics of my 93 Toyota 22RE AUTO RX
- Thread starter Boaz
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its not uncommon on the ex side for the 20/22r engines to have some darkness or deposit on the exhaust side /valve area. this is not a real issue on these though. here's a few pics of a 86 22re w/212k on a summer of rotella 15/40 then to 10/30 Supertech while getting the valves adjusted. i use the st/champ 3600 or mc fl-400s filters. the inside before was similiar to yours. typical brown varnish like with some soft deposits. this was after a hard summer of wheeling and little maint or washdowns. yours should clean up fine also.
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sorry www.rms13.com
Thanks for the pics Muddawg...
I am pretty sold on using Rotella thanks to thosep pics! So you use supertech 10w30 dino?
I am pretty sold on using Rotella thanks to thosep pics! So you use supertech 10w30 dino?
yep. later on that truck.. typically whatever i could find on sale or wherever i was. on all my other trucks i ran typically havoline/valvoline were the main ones back many years ago in 10/30,10/40 sometimes a 20/50. this was before the internet craze etc..
i'd run a good dino in it 10/30 or 10/40 and not worry a bit or even run the rotella it'd be fine too. i've run 5/30 but it was definetly more noisy if your lash is not a bit tighter. i've also dealt with the change to syn leaks and never saw any benefits to it in those old trucks. they were aero deficient anyway and those old seals never sealed themselves backup. i learned the first time.
all my old trucks have been sold now or parted after damage or wore out. i still have 2 22r's in the shed though. my nephew has the 86 4runner now and is still going strong on supertech 10/30 and escort filters aka fl-400s/3600.
heres the list of my old toys that i had and current fleet. i had a thing for those old toys. i miss those old trucks especailly the 85 pickup. anyway. yours isnt too bad. give it some time and some good road trips.
old toys
79 pickups
2 84 pickups
85 pickup and 4runner
86 pickup and 4runner
87 pickup
92 pickup
my current is
86 omni glh (autox car)
97 mustang cobra
98 escort
99 3.4l trd tacoma w/supercharger
01 sr5 4runner
..mudd
i'd run a good dino in it 10/30 or 10/40 and not worry a bit or even run the rotella it'd be fine too. i've run 5/30 but it was definetly more noisy if your lash is not a bit tighter. i've also dealt with the change to syn leaks and never saw any benefits to it in those old trucks. they were aero deficient anyway and those old seals never sealed themselves backup. i learned the first time.
all my old trucks have been sold now or parted after damage or wore out. i still have 2 22r's in the shed though. my nephew has the 86 4runner now and is still going strong on supertech 10/30 and escort filters aka fl-400s/3600.
heres the list of my old toys that i had and current fleet. i had a thing for those old toys. i miss those old trucks especailly the 85 pickup. anyway. yours isnt too bad. give it some time and some good road trips.
old toys
79 pickups
2 84 pickups
85 pickup and 4runner
86 pickup and 4runner
87 pickup
92 pickup
my current is
86 omni glh (autox car)
97 mustang cobra
98 escort
99 3.4l trd tacoma w/supercharger
01 sr5 4runner
..mudd
Boaz nice looking truck but I would get rid of that bra cover on the hood. it will fade the paint under it (or has it already?) just get one of those plastic bug /rock deflector.
I am starting a Arx on my wifes malibu soon. it looks dark down in the oil cap hole. . wish I could pull the valve cover but looks like its a real pita to get off.
good luck on your treatment and yes those toyo engines are very tough.
I am starting a Arx on my wifes malibu soon. it looks dark down in the oil cap hole. . wish I could pull the valve cover but looks like its a real pita to get off.
good luck on your treatment and yes those toyo engines are very tough.
Yeah that bra was gone after the day I bought it.
I think it looks ok, but I know what they do to paint.
Mud... would the 5W40 Rotella be ok? Or should I get the 15W40? Are they both dino?
I think it looks ok, but I know what they do to paint.
Mud... would the 5W40 Rotella be ok? Or should I get the 15W40? Are they both dino?
the 15w40 is what i used and understand this is dino based. you can also get it in a 10w30 but it it not as common to find. the 5w40 is a synthetic from what i understand and read.. is it a "true" synth? i don't know that. i've used delvac 1300 15w40 once also and it was fine a little bit more $ if i remember right. i preferred the rotella though. it seemed to feel better and it was always on the shelf..
hows the pinion seal on the rear end? is it weeping yet? thats also a issue that i had with all but a couple..
hows the pinion seal on the rear end? is it weeping yet? thats also a issue that i had with all but a couple..
So far this truck does not leak anywhere. It does have low mileage though.
That engine color is consistent with several engines I've seen over ten years old here in Texas, more than one an engine known for long life (with an un-caring owner). I had an I-6 200 FORD that was bright maraschino-cherry red under the valve cover with about 79,000 on it, one-owner, old lady previous owner.
I'd give it an LC-20 piston soak (as per my usual) and ARX it and not worry overmuch; use FP-60 also.
"I still don't think he was **-ing you ..and I think Auto-Rx is going to do a grand job on it. I don't think any of us (it would surely be rare) have owned a 5k/year car for 18 years to even know what to expect. Some of us may be doing that NOW with newer oils and newer cars ..and if we're lucky enough ..we'll still be alive to see what happens in 18 years".
GA, my Chrysler "averaged" a little under 4,000 miles/year for 34 years, and the FORD above was at 3200 miles/year. In truth, both sat out a few years, and then ran over 15,000 miles in some years, or less in others. ARX WILL make a difference, I couldn't agree more.
I'd give it an LC-20 piston soak (as per my usual) and ARX it and not worry overmuch; use FP-60 also.
"I still don't think he was **-ing you ..and I think Auto-Rx is going to do a grand job on it. I don't think any of us (it would surely be rare) have owned a 5k/year car for 18 years to even know what to expect. Some of us may be doing that NOW with newer oils and newer cars ..and if we're lucky enough ..we'll still be alive to see what happens in 18 years".
GA, my Chrysler "averaged" a little under 4,000 miles/year for 34 years, and the FORD above was at 3200 miles/year. In truth, both sat out a few years, and then ran over 15,000 miles in some years, or less in others. ARX WILL make a difference, I couldn't agree more.
Thanks for the reponse TanSedan!
I just bought some FP-60 and I was thinking about doing a LC20 Piston Soak as well.
I hope that auto rx and the use of LC20 and FP60 will clean up the engine and bit. I got alot of life left in that truck. I hope it lasts quite awhile!
I just bought some FP-60 and I was thinking about doing a LC20 Piston Soak as well.
I hope that auto rx and the use of LC20 and FP60 will clean up the engine and bit. I got alot of life left in that truck. I hope it lasts quite awhile!
I dont think this engine used M1. And why a new timing chain at 88000? Its not even thought about until 120,000 miles for that engine. Was the chain slapping due to broken plastic guides? If so, were the pieces found, or just left in the engine or pan?
I had a 91 Toy 4x4, owend since new. I put 275,000 miles on it in 12 years, all trouble free. I didnt do the timing chain until 260,000 miles, and I only did due to the slapping(also did the clutch, valve adjustment for the 1st time at 260K). Good thing, the chain was eating through, made a nice groove which if not taken care of, would have eaten into a water passage, causing bad news. I did the metal guides as well, good to see yours has them as well.
Anyway, my point is my engine with 260K looked real nice on the inside. No slude or deposits, we were amazed how clean it was. This was with dino oil for the first 150,000 miles, and FRAM filters(I didnt know better). I would check out your truck well, something seems wrong.
I had a 91 Toy 4x4, owend since new. I put 275,000 miles on it in 12 years, all trouble free. I didnt do the timing chain until 260,000 miles, and I only did due to the slapping(also did the clutch, valve adjustment for the 1st time at 260K). Good thing, the chain was eating through, made a nice groove which if not taken care of, would have eaten into a water passage, causing bad news. I did the metal guides as well, good to see yours has them as well.
Anyway, my point is my engine with 260K looked real nice on the inside. No slude or deposits, we were amazed how clean it was. This was with dino oil for the first 150,000 miles, and FRAM filters(I didnt know better). I would check out your truck well, something seems wrong.
I did not see any sludge in the photo's at all. I would say that their is a varnish issue. ARX is ok with repeated applications on varnish but really shines with sludge. LC20 is much better in my opion for light varnish like this.
I do not think that the previous owner was being honest with you! That 22RE does not look like it has been feed a diet of M1 at all. It also looks like the oil change interval was over extended for the driveing as it most reseambles an engine used for all short trips. I would do a UOA and look for fuel diloution as well. This could be caused by a bad cold start injector as well.
If the guy replaced the chain,guides and oil pump it was not for preventive measures at all! The 22RE is one of the most bulit proof designs ever produced. My family has owned 22RE's that have racked up 300,000 miles with no engine parts ever being replaced.
P.S. My family has owned Toyota's almost exclusively since 1971. I also raced (amature and street) vechiles that had 22RE's in both turbo charged,super charged and NO2.
I do not think that the previous owner was being honest with you! That 22RE does not look like it has been feed a diet of M1 at all. It also looks like the oil change interval was over extended for the driveing as it most reseambles an engine used for all short trips. I would do a UOA and look for fuel diloution as well. This could be caused by a bad cold start injector as well.
If the guy replaced the chain,guides and oil pump it was not for preventive measures at all! The 22RE is one of the most bulit proof designs ever produced. My family has owned 22RE's that have racked up 300,000 miles with no engine parts ever being replaced.
P.S. My family has owned Toyota's almost exclusively since 1971. I also raced (amature and street) vechiles that had 22RE's in both turbo charged,super charged and NO2.
The plastic guides broke, so he replaced them. Yes he dropped the oil pan and got all of the pieces out.
THe truck was driven very little in its first 12 years. It was mostly driven short trips.
I plan to do a UOA after the Auto Rx cleaning is done. The cold start injector is wired seperatly to a switch on this truck. So I know its not malfuntioning.
I think the 160* thermostat has alot to do with build up. The truck rarley gets even to 180*. I purchased a new thermostat yesterday and I plan to put it in tomorrow.
Yes it was. The previous owner is a mechanical engineer. I know he likes to wrench as a hobby. There was no oil pump failure or anything like that.
Good news is, I don't think that this sludge has caused any major damage. I totally caught this in time. Auto RX to the rescue and a steady diet of quality dino every 4-5k should suit this engine well.
Im courious if you can get a car fax report.
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I knew we could find someone
YEah, I carfax'ed it before I bought it..
whats that got to do with it?
Tells you the history if there is any, duh.
Right, but I have carfaxed it and it give basic info, when it was new, when it was sold etc. It gives little info on the maint...
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