Before and After Pics of my 93 Toyota 22RE AUTO RX

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wow... maybe this dude totally faked the service reciepts I was shown when i bought it....
 
So the next big question is..

After the auto Rx phase what oil should I switch too?

Dino ??
Havoline or Castrol GTX

Syn?
M1? GC? Amsoil?
 
Couple of red flags besides the varnish should be timing chain replacement and oil pump. You should not see that on a well maintained yota run with Mobil 1 at 88000.
 
The timing chains have plastic guides that typically break and that will wear the timing chain out pre maturely.. a new timing chaing was installed along with new metal guides... Typical PM to me, the oil pump and water pump were replaced with after market
units basically because the front of the motor was apart.

Well the truck runs fine, and hopefully the auto rx will cure the woes of my little 4 banger.

What do you guys recommend for oil and OCI after the Auto Rx phase?
 
quote:

Ah ..a nice carmel glaze (or is it "caramel" - as "Taco Bell" was said in Demolition Man [Confused] )

Depends on how long 3k took to accumulate.

88k/3k 18 years 18x12=216 month ...let's say he slacked off for the 50k plus. 8-9 months.

The engine only saw about 5k a year. That accumulation is totally believable to me [I dont know]

YES! The previous owner said that they only drove it about 5k a year.

PLus... It seems that the PCV system has been tampered with on the truck. I know that the owner said that he had problems with it passing Texas Emission standards.

As it turns out the truck needs a new PCV valve...

SO between the low miles and the faulty PCV vavle this is possibly "normal" or to be expected?
 
your 22r looks normal for a truck that was run on reg mobil not m1. id change the oil to any well known 5/30 and give it a few changes for now. i had a 86 that looked similar and i used reg rotella 15/40 and changed it out to a 10/30 valvoline years ago. when i pulled the cover off it cleaned up pretty good. if the valves are adjusted tight you could use a 5/30 without much concern or extra noise also. these engines are known to have the valve/oil shredders wear which will be worse with a synthetic. in order to change you have to remove the headbolts and the rockershafts,girdles,valve springs then use compressed air to hold them in place. a pain..
with your metal guides and new chain you have a bulletproof combo. i've used 10/30 and 10/40 in many 20r/22r/22re's and about 800 thousand miles in total. the only issue was the rest of the trucks and a few starters. those bodies from the 80's were not the best in the rust region.
sounds like you found a decent truck otherwise. any of the new sm rated dino's would be just fine and be easy on those old shredders. i usually went about 4k back in the old days. the mc fl400 or the champ/supertech 3600 are longer and can be reached from the top quite easy on the 22re also. rest easy and good luck..

..mudd
 
np.. i think it worked quite well and didnt do more than i wanted to either. you'll never get it perfect but you dont want to open up other issues either with seals etc.. its relatively cheap also and avail at walmart and farm stores. it seems to take some of the dark material and brown varnish away. this is not a cure all but it does seem to help clean and has a cleaning action but not over clean either. give it a shot. im not anti-autorx nor have i seen the need to use it but i know that it does help some engines that have sludge issues.. from the pics i wouldnt call your engine sludgy at all. a little dirty but not bad. depending on your climate the 15/40 will be fine for all but the really cold nights.. run it for a month or 500 miles and take a peek and swap over to a reg dino. i used 10/30 and 10/40 for all my 20/22r/22re engines and never saw any issues and ran 4k back in the old days and just recently retired my last 22re 4Runner to my nephew who runs the heck out of it.. the newer sm oils should be able to get you to 5k + with no issues. these were good engines and were not hard on oil and you've allready fixed the weak link with the guides. you got a ton of miles left in it. good luck and lets see some pics of your ride..

...mudd
 
One thing to keep in mind through all this is that this is a toyota 22R motor, which is one of the toughest and most reliable engines on the planet, almost regardless of maintenance. Even with abusive treatment they will last 300,000 miles w/o even trying. So while cleaning it is obviously a good idea, its probably going to last another 150 - 200,000 miles, no matter what is done to it!

Just a thought to help you sleep easier....
 
There is no way he used Mobil 1 or any other synthetic, atleast with regular OCI (5-6k miles).

STOP USING 50 weight oil!!!

I'd change the oil, use some cheap 5W30 for the RX/other kind of flush/clean and use 5W30 from now on!!

I would use Wal-Mart Supertech or Advance Auto Parts $6 a jug oil for the cleaning/short OCI oil changes.


I would run Havoline, Valvoline or Mobil/Exxon 5W30 in the thing from now on.
 
Yeah, I don't like the cooler thermostat crap, either. It takes 30+ minutes for a GM 350 engine to warm up, running Interstate speeds, in a 90's model.

I can't see how that is good for the engine.
 
thats a good loooking ride. i always liked the standard cabs best.
here's one from my long lost fleet. I sold it after getting a good offer. I guess these old 4Runners have quite a following. Last year for the solid axle and first for the fuel injection. this one was a 5spd sr5 with air,power windows,Altimeter/Inclinometer.. it was a nice ride.

My Last 85 4runner
 
I like the Rotella T (or Delo 400) suggestion for after the ARX. Despite what nearly every single person here has posted, I don't automatically assume the guy was lying. To me, it sounds like he was good with maintenance but fell victim to the common old-timer-like thinking that a cooler thermostat is better for longevity (or no t-stat at all to some guys).

Deere & Co (John Deere tractors) did a bunch of research work years ago wrt coolant temps versus longevity and also versus power output in their diesel tractor engines. Some of those conclusions were inappropriately applied by regular folks.

Either way, I suspect that motor will run a good long time for you.
 
I still don't think he was **-ing you ..and I think Auto-Rx is going to do a grand job on it. I don't think any of us (it would surely be rare) have owned a 5k/year car for 18 years to even know what to expect. Some of us may be doing that NOW with newer oils and newer cars ..and if we're lucky enough ..we'll still be alive to see what happens in 18 years
smile.gif
 
Thanks Gary. I am still convinced that this truck is a "cherry". I am very excited to see how auto rx will clean up the motor. According to other 22RE owners this engine would still run great with 2 or 3 times that amount of "sludge".

I am glad that I noticed the build up and I am now taking steps to correct it. I plan to maintain this vehicle very well. I hope for it to last me at least 7-10 years as a daily driver and then when I retire it from daily driving its going to get a solid axle and a V-8 swap and become my 4-wheelin rig.

I think the plan is to run it on good dino with 4-5k OCI from now on. I am pretty set on Havoline at this point. It seems to have a great additive pack and a great price.

Thanks to everyone for your comments..

I am about 200 miles into clean phase. I will post up pics as soon as I reach 1500 miles!

Boaz
 
I am probably going to try Rotella for the rinse phase or Delo what ever is easier to find.

Should I just stick with 5 or 10W-30 after that?
 
I don't think you are going to be too impressed with you after photos at the 1500 mile mark ...though do take some photos please ...you will be more impressed at the 1500 miles mark of the rinse phase ..that is were the dirt comes off! ..especially if you do this twice ....wwwrms13.com check these photos!
 
ok deepsquat I think you are right. I will take photes after the rinse phase. Depending on what that looks like I might use auto RX again.

I will start using auto rx as a maintenance dose in every oil change from now on!
 
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