Yes.
They both clean, however the HM version has more esters that clean the internals.
Totally worth it, especially for you Americans. Your regular price is awesome.
I need to wait for sakes, otherwise it's close to 70 for a 4.75 L.
Another Sludge Engine help Question pls. *w/pics*
- Thread starter jgscott
- Start date
They both clean, however the HM version has more esters that clean the internals.
Totally worth it, especially for you Americans. Your regular price is awesome.
I need to wait for sakes, otherwise it's close to 70 for a 4.75 L.
A cheaper oil won't have esters to clean, so why use a cheaper oil?
Thank you Sir for answering my question. Going to run the one in there for 500 - 600 miles. Then add abottle of Liquid Molys Pro Line Engine Flush. Idle for 15 mins or so, then put the Mobile 1 HM Ext Profromance in for 1500 miles or so.
Good idea
I have used LM on many gummed up engines.
Liqui moly flush is some good stuff.
For what it's worth (not a lot), I would change the oil and filter, add the HPL ECx0 (based off your need) and run the regular OCI. Then, maybe run the EC again with the next oil change. Then take a look to see how you are doing. If all looks well, then run the HPL oil for an interval and if you feel it meets your needs continue. If it doesn't, go back to M1 or whatever brand you fancy. I personally would use something reputable which meets the specs that your car requires whether it be Amsoil, HPL, M1, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, ST, Kirkland and on and on and on, etc...
I have run engine flushes before. Not sure they did any good or bad. I went a little overkill with mine that maybe others have done. Drained the oil, put new oil in (I think M1), changed filter, did the idle thing then drained and filled with new stuff again and new filter. I know some people will just put the flush in with the oil that is currently in the car. Again, not sure it made a difference. I just did it because I didn't know the oil change history of the vehicles I was using it in or I wasn't a fan of the interval that was used.
I am using HPL Premium in 2 of my cars now. I don't know if there is any sludge or varnish BUT one of those vehicles is under warranty and I do my own changes. IF I have an issue, I don't want them to come back and tell me the engine is sludged up (even though I change every 6m/6k miles). Once I hit that mark, I'll be going back to M1 EP since I have 5 - 6 5qt jugs. The other car had mostly 5k oil changes done at the dealer with what they said ws M1. After 99kish miles I switched to Amsoil SS for some extended oil changes (extended as in more than th 5k I was running but probably less than 10k), then I used Kirkland once and I think the MM was down to maybe 5-10%; I can't remember. Now, the HPL is in there. Once the MM hits 0, I'll go back to Kirkland since I have 9 5qt jugs of it for that car. That car has 138k on it and if it lasts a few more years, I'll be happy. Wanna go a few years without a car payment. I got 6 months left on one of my cars and then I'm done.
So, again that is what I would do. Take it or leave it. Good luck with whatever you end up doing in the future.
I have run engine flushes before. Not sure they did any good or bad. I went a little overkill with mine that maybe others have done. Drained the oil, put new oil in (I think M1), changed filter, did the idle thing then drained and filled with new stuff again and new filter. I know some people will just put the flush in with the oil that is currently in the car. Again, not sure it made a difference. I just did it because I didn't know the oil change history of the vehicles I was using it in or I wasn't a fan of the interval that was used.
I am using HPL Premium in 2 of my cars now. I don't know if there is any sludge or varnish BUT one of those vehicles is under warranty and I do my own changes. IF I have an issue, I don't want them to come back and tell me the engine is sludged up (even though I change every 6m/6k miles). Once I hit that mark, I'll be going back to M1 EP since I have 5 - 6 5qt jugs. The other car had mostly 5k oil changes done at the dealer with what they said ws M1. After 99kish miles I switched to Amsoil SS for some extended oil changes (extended as in more than th 5k I was running but probably less than 10k), then I used Kirkland once and I think the MM was down to maybe 5-10%; I can't remember. Now, the HPL is in there. Once the MM hits 0, I'll go back to Kirkland since I have 9 5qt jugs of it for that car. That car has 138k on it and if it lasts a few more years, I'll be happy. Wanna go a few years without a car payment. I got 6 months left on one of my cars and then I'm done.
So, again that is what I would do. Take it or leave it. Good luck with whatever you end up doing in the future.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
The OP stated that he engine is running perfectly fine. Every single modern oil with the latest API spec will have an additive package sufficient to slowly clean the engine without risking too much being broken off at any given time.
While an ester oil is likely to do the best job, I’m not convinced it is a better option than simply doing multiple short intervals with the cheapest oil with the latest API cert.
Keeping an engine clean, sure.
But cleaning up years of deposits not really.
Even with short oci's.
But hey, to each is own.
Have a great weekend
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
My logic behind cheaper oil is that the detergents will maintain the most important parts of the engine clean enough to keep it running like it is now: bearing surfaces, piston rings, galleys, etc. Crud in other places don’t matter much…unless they’re loosed into the system and degrade one of the aforementioned important parts.
The dispersants will prevent any cleaned up crud from becoming a problem too quickly and hopefully carry the larger bits to the filter.
Really don't know how you can mess like this with the oil changes. Why is it so difficult for some.
Delvac is cheap, and its definitely cleans dirty engine's
My neck of the woods. Devlac is just as expensive as m1 HM.
ok
, sorry about that. Didn't know thatNo idea how that happens using basically ANY oil changed regularly.
There can be only 1 cause for this sludge - extended oil change intervals.
Many people say extended oil changes are safe, and have UOA's to prove it.
But UOA's don't measure sludge accumulation.
Wow, that does look pretty bad to me. I’ve been using Redline 5/20 for the past 5+ years. I just recently changed to Maxima 5/30 simply because it was a tad cheaper this time around, and I now have more miles on her. Both are heavy in Ester, so I imagine my internals should look pretty clean. 
@jgscott OP, I know you're already on the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil. But it should be noted that Mobil does offer a different oil that is actually better at cleaning, meets a lot more stringent performance specs, and is available for the same price often. That oil is Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It is basically the flagship oil of the Mobil line-up by ExxonMobil. Here are a few pictures that I stole from various posts by @OVERKILL
There’s some pretty wild videos on YouTube of the BG dynamic engine cleaner working wonders on sludged engines. This stuff used to be unavailable to the public, but recently the kits been put on Amazon. I don’t know if it’s a good price or what, but this is probably the only “quick fix” I’d expect noticeable results from. The $300 price tag is tough to swallow, though.
Amazon Link
Amazon Link
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You'd have to have a really serious issue to need that stuff but yeah, it's supposed to work.
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