Amsoil for a Porsche?

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Hello everyone

I've been a loyal Amsoil user for several years. My father just purchased himself a 2000 Boxster with the 2.7 6cyl engine and I always order oil for his vehicles.

I've searched and seen a few postings on how the Amsoil 5w40 euro-spec oil definitely isn't the best oil they make and the TBN and 4-ball wear numbers seem to support that.

I order the Amsoil AMO 10w40 for my father's motorhome and wanted to get opinions on using it in the Boxster as well? Its HTHS and TBN numbers are very good but should I be concerned about the zinc and other additives harming the emissions equipment?

Thanks for all comments!
 
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
I'd say excellent choice. Has HDEO additive levels that will address your Zn/P concerns.


What ZDDP concerns has Porsche expressed?
 
AFL would be "proper" being certified I agree but HTHS, TBN and Noack are all behind the AMO. It just doesn't look very impressive for a 40 weight synthetic oil. The 10w40 XL line seems to have better numbers!
eek.gif
 
buster, I was just looking at the Redline site. Their 5w40 has an HTHS of 4.6 and a Noack of 6.x, pretty impressive!
 
Hi,
Will - I suggest you use an Approved & Listed lubricant. If you chose not to I would be circumspect about using a lubricant with an HTHS vis above 4cP

For various reasons I won't be expanding on this comment
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The Amsoil AFL 5W-40 would be a more appropriate choice.
The AMO 10W-40 is simply heavier than necessary.
What?
 
Originally Posted By: Will
buster, I was just looking at the Redline site. Their 5w40 has an HTHS of 4.6 and a Noack of 6.x, pretty impressive!


It's definitely an impressive oil.

I would consider what Doug is saying too about HT/HS.

Quote:
To make and distribute oil at a competitive price, a company must be able to manufacture or buy the components at a competitive price, and have enough of a market to pay for the development and manufacturing cost. That company has to be able to “be a player”. Once that company decides to “be a player”, say, in the Porsche market, then the sound and professional way to operate is to present the finished product to Porsche so they put it through the Porsche 996FL Engine test. This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through: - 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving, - 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving, - 40 cold starts, - 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, - 3.5 hours of “running-in” program Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter will be taken into account to grant the approval or not: - torque curve (internal friction), - oxidation of the oil, - Piston cleanliness and ring sticking, - Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 µm. - Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible. - Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method. Several mechanics told me that they were relying on “their own testing” to choose an oil. None of these mechanics showed me that their method came close to matching what Porsche does: running dozens of oils through the same 203-hour test, and comparing the results. This test has been designed by Porsche to guarantee the availability of test-proven oils for all Porsche since model year 1973: the letter (attached) given to oil manufacturers specifies that date. This oil testing procedure exists specifically to avoid the wear cam problems created by the fiasco of ILSAC GF-4 being recommended in Porsche by some distributors.
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
Will - I suggest you use an Approved & Listed lubricant. If you chose not to I would be circumspect about using a lubricant with an HTHS vis above 4cP

For various reasons I won't be expanding on this comment

+1

I would add that it is a common but incorrect assumption that an oil with a higher HTHS vis' for a given grade provides some sort of "reserve" high temperature protection. The oil with the higher HTHS vis will be proportionately more viscose at all normal operating temperatures. In other words, it's simply a heavier oil.
 
Will, I would also suggest considering going back to the Porsche FF oil, M1 0W-40, which has a slightly higher HTHS vis of 3.8cP vs 3.7cP for the Amsoil AFL 5W-40. It is also lighter at all start-up temps and I believe it is less expensive not to mention commonly available.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Will, I would also suggest considering going back to the Porsche FF oil, M1 0W-40, which has a slightly higher HTHS vis of 3.8cP vs 3.7cP for the Amsoil AFL 5W-40. It is also lighter at all start-up temps and I believe it is less expensive not to mention commonly available.


That's the thing, Amsoil AFL offers zero advantage over Mobil 1. Waste of time & money with that oil.
 
Originally Posted By: buster


That's the thing, Amsoil AFL offers zero advantage over Mobil 1. Waste of time & money with that oil.


AFL at $6.71/qt is actually less expensive than M1 0W-40 here - when you can actually find M1 0W-40 in my area. Last time I saw it, it was $8.95/qt I still don't get why people on BITOG try to talk others out of perfectly legitimate oil choices. I think AFL did excellent in the fuel dilution/Fe tests, so again - why the beef?
 
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