Redline 0-30W vs Amsoil 0-30W Signature

Amsoil has two different formulations in 0w30. You need to check out the Amsoil EOT Euro 0
You can't really compare how a motor oil will perform in such a cursory manner. You joined in 2008? Probably have seen some talk on this. It seems we are getting away from comparing paper marketing specifications, especially TBN. But some folks cling to that.

There is no magic oil. One might be better for your use, can't say just like the other OPINIONS here.

What does the 15K Km OCI with Mobil1 look like on your KIA Forte?
I just got this car less than 2 months ago I have to check how much oil burns, if it is not hard on the oil I will switch to AMSOIL 1 year OC otherwise I will use Mobil 6 months OC.
I had a Kia Spectra 2006 it was too hard on the oil and I gave up to 1 year OC with AMSOIL. I was using Mobil 1 0-40W, 6 months OC, perfect for that engine I got rid of the car because of the rust, not the engine, it was 356.000 Km running like new never had a problem.
 
I tend to shy away from MLM companies. Red Line Euro 5W30 is as good as it gets if you want a 504/507 oil.
 
Which of the two companies would pay for engine damage if you had a problem going 25,000 KMS ?
Which gasoline vehicle manufacturer allows 15.5k OCI's, using a typical Walmart API / ILSAC / GF5/GF6a oil of 0w/5w/10w-20/30 variety.?
That's the first question any motor oil manufacturer is going to ask, when you attempt to collect on engine damage.
 
Which gasoline vehicle manufacturer allows 15.5k OCI's?
That's the first question any motor oil manufacturer is going to ask, when you attempt to collect on engine damage.
I used to use Amsoil for 25,000 KMS in Canada ( I still use it but just follow the oil life monitor which allows me 20,000 oil drain intervals based on my driving ) ) on a Honda Civic that required oil changes every 8,000 KMS ( no oil life monitor ) because I got sick and tired of bringing my car in every month and a half. Had the engine failed, Amsoil would have stepped up and paid for any damage ( I was following their product/oil filter recommendations ).

The engine was fine, didn't burn a drop of oil when I got rid of it ( bored with the car ) with over 350,000 KMS on it.

Changing the oil every 8,000 kms with typical Walmart ( sorry, I cannot handle that place ) oil would have cost me more money and time in the long run.
 
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Free country. Herbalife and Amway are looking for you.
I buy direct from Amsoil's website. I get free membership due to my annual spending. Even if I did it's $20 a year. Most people here pay over $60 just to buy at Costco for the same products available at Walmart! Buy hey you can get a roasted chicken for $4. What about all the folks spending $10-20 for vehicle service apps. My point is Amsoil is no different than any other expense. Advance Auto and many big stores carry amsoil so the MLM card gets old.
 
Amsoil is free to sell to distributors that stock the shelves at walmart just like other oil producers. They dont, instead they use their business model to generate income in more creative ways. They do it in a quasi MLM method. Are they as egregious as other MLM schemes? Don't seem to be. Their main difference is the product they sell, while relatively expensive, has an actual market as opposed to milkshake mix that cost's 500% more than its equivalent on the supermarket shelf. I do utilize Costco, the annual membership fee is worth it to me for higher quality products that aren't available at walmart. I do also use walmart/sam's club. Uh-Oh! sam's has an annual fee too but isn't an MLM utilizer. Summit/Jegs make you pay $49 to get free shipping! They also don't adhere to the MLM tenets. The MLM/Amsoil is your cup of tea. Go For It! Your money, your choice.
 
I tend to shy away from MLM companies. Red Line Euro 5W30 is as good as it gets if you want a 504/507 oil.
Most companies are MLM if you really want to split hairs. Manufacturer sells to a distributor at one price (wholesale), but sells to you at a different price which is also usually matched by the distributor’s price to you (retail or MAP). Amsoil simply gives you the option of where on the price chart you want to sit.

Regardless, their sales and pricing scheme has absolutely zero impact on the quality of their products.
 
Most companies are MLM if you really want to split hairs. Manufacturer sells to a distributor at one price (wholesale), but sells to you at a different price which is also usually matched by the distributor’s price to you (retail or MAP). Amsoil simply gives you the option of where on the price chart you want to sit.

Regardless, their sales and pricing scheme has absolutely zero impact on the quality of their products.
How about all the monopolies big oil hold. All the big brand online retailers crushing mom and pop shops. But hey let’s support foreign owned motor oil brands because MLM is evil. Fleet farm is a large chain just like AutoZone. I can walk in and buy Amsoil whenever I want locally from them.
 
Be careful about choosing oils based on PDS, remember that it’s just marketing. Most Redline oils don’t disclose TBN because they’re not all that great.

I’d choose Amsoil if I was paying between those two, and if the Redline was given to me I sure wouldn’t attempt a long OCI without in-service UOAs to keep tabs on it as the mileage accumulated.

As facility1 noted, not only are HPL’s oils extensively documented (and tested) here on the site, @High Performance Lubricants has “lifted the skirt” pretty far to tell us a majority of what’s in their oils.

You may get POE in Redline (if P66 is still doing that), but I don’t think any of Redline’s offerings use ANs, which means it won’t clean anywhere near as well. I can’t remember if Pablo shared if SS has ANs, but either way the Amsoil’s no slouch.
I’m currently running Redline 0W30 in the 1991 Volvo 240. In my mind it’s a 5,000 mile oil.
 
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I just got this car less than 2 months ago I have to check how much oil burns, if it is not hard on the oil I will switch to AMSOIL 1 year OC otherwise I will use Mobil 6 months OC.
I had a Kia Spectra 2006 it was too hard on the oil and I gave up to 1 year OC with AMSOIL. I was using Mobil 1 0-40W, 6 months OC, perfect for that engine I got rid of the car because of the rust, not the engine, it was 356.000 Km running like new never had a problem.
I forgot to say my old Kia Spectra 2006 had a PCV Valve problem I could not replace it unless I changed the head engine, since the support of the valve came off. So it was a great engine since It did 356.000 Km with the same PCV Valve 😁.
 
I forgot to say my old Kia Spectra 2006 had a PCV Valve problem I could not replace it unless I changed the head engine, since the support of the valve came off. So it was a great engine since It did 356.000 Km with the same PCV Valve 😁.
So that's what you meant when you said it was hard on oil ( consumption )?
 
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I can't tell you how much i appreciate you stepping in here and stating this. I have a problem with several statements that have been made in this thread that are simply not true because the science and properties have already been well established for a great many years, including here on BITOG.

So, thank you.
 
So that's what you meant when you said it was hard on oil ( consumption )?
Very likely, I know that the 1.8L 2004 engine had sludge problems as well, and I could feel that with Kendall oil (dealer oil) the engine wasn't going well, so I went to Synthetic oils and thanks to this forum I found the perfect oil for that engine.
 
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