I don't know but @edyvw may be able to answer that better than I could. I have not heard of that interaction.Is there any distinction between how those interact with ethanol or its byproducts?
Last edited:
I don't know but @edyvw may be able to answer that better than I could. I have not heard of that interaction.Is there any distinction between how those interact with ethanol or its byproducts?
Esters are basically alcohol and acids. They are more prone to dilution and white sludge caused by ethanol. Of course, there are other variables, like VII etc.Is there any distinction between how those interact with ethanol or its byproducts?
Holy cow. Are you getting enough buildup in that time to bother? Mine looked pretty good at 75k mi when I had them done in my Sportwagen. I can't imagine why the Amsoil product wouldn't be excellent.Curious if anyone on this forum as any experience with amsoil euro 0w40? I live in Canada and have been using castrol 0w40 in cooler weather and motul xcess gen2 in warmer weather. In my area I can now only get castrol 0w40 SP and the specs/make up do not appear to be as good as what the SN version was. Did some research and came across amsoil 0w40. My car is out of warranty and so builder approvals don't concern me as much as knowing the oil is of good quality. I know amsoil lacks when it comes to builder approvals. What I found intriguing about amsoil 0w40 was that in many ways it is similar to castrol 0w40 SN. 25-50% pao, good pour point, HTHS of 3.7, KV100 13.3. All good specs imo. The noack is on the higher side and I do drive a mk7 golf R stage 2, however, I clean my intake valves every 25-30k km. Anywho, just curious if there is any experience out there with this oil. thx in advance.
I also considered castrol 0w30 but my tuner recommends I stick to 40wt.
In your area? Walmart and Canadian Tire both carry Castrol 0w40 SN made in Belgium but only in 946 ml bottles if I'm not mistaken. Maybe look again. Even the Castrol Euro 0W30 should also work, I believe it's HT/HS is sufficient.Curious if anyone on this forum as any experience with amsoil euro 0w40? I live in Canada and have been using castrol 0w40 in cooler weather and motul xcess gen2 in warmer weather. In my area I can now only get castrol 0w40 SP and the specs/make up do not appear to be as good as what the SN version was. Did some research and came across amsoil 0w40. My car is out of warranty and so builder approvals don't concern me as much as knowing the oil is of good quality. I know amsoil lacks when it comes to builder approvals. What I found intriguing about amsoil 0w40 was that in many ways it is similar to castrol 0w40 SN. 25-50% pao, good pour point, HTHS of 3.7, KV100 13.3. All good specs imo. The noack is on the higher side and I do drive a mk7 golf R stage 2, however, I clean my intake valves every 25-30k km. Anywho, just curious if there is any experience out there with this oil. thx in advance.
I also considered castrol 0w30 but my tuner recommends I stick to 40wt.
You are correct I can get Castrol 0w40 in 1qt bottles. However it's far more expensive to buy it by the qt. I can get amsoil cheaper. 0w30 would work but my preference is to stick with 40wt if easily accessible. ThxIn your area? Walmart and Canadian Tire both carry Castrol 0w40 SN made in Belgium but only in 946 ml bottles if I'm not mistaken. Maybe look again. Even the Castrol Euro 0W30 should also work, I believe it's HT/HS is sufficient.
I'm thinking the HT/HS is more important aspect than grade. Aren't they both around 3.5? If so then not a problem or am I off base here? Cheers..You are correct I can get Castrol 0w40 in 1qt bottles. However it's far more expensive to buy it by the qt. I can get amsoil cheaper. 0w30 would work but my preference is to stick with 40wt if easily accessible. Thx
Not disagreeing with that I concur, however, the amsoil hths is 3.7 which from my research is a little higher than Castrol. Could be wrong just what I read. Either way the amsoil is the better price and similar if I had to buy 0w30 from can tire unless it was on sale.I'm thinking the HT/HS is more important aspect than grade. Aren't they both around 3.5? If so then not a problem or am I off base here? Cheers..
Well maybe Black Friday they'll be reduced but anyway Amsoil is very good stuff, I use the 5w30 SS a lot. Good talking to you, so long for now.Not disagreeing with that I concur, however, the amsoil hths is 3.7 which from my research is a little higher than Castrol. Could be wrong just what I read. Either way the amsoil is the better price and similar if I had to buy 0w30 from can tire unless it was on sale.
Yeah I believe both to be great options. Will give amsoil a shot and see how it goes.Well maybe Black Friday they'll be reduced but anyway Amsoil is very good stuff, I use the 5w30 SS a lot. Good talking to you, so long for now.
I've been using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 with E60 on track, which I would consider a "Low or no ester" oil, being a Grp 3+. Although, my motor has very little blow-by and fuel contamination (430f flash point), it shears from a light 40w to a heavy 30w, even with mostly being driven short trips. I change the oil every 4-6k km and get iron wear in the 5ppm/1k mi range. Latest UOA had 2 track days and 90% city short tripping where oil barely gets to temp. Not a bad result for a cheap and plentiful product.What's your favorite oil for a tuned motor on e85 these days? Besides HPL the other high HTHS options seem to be dwindling in availability.
HPL Euro 5W40 has stayed in to close to being in grade (12+ cST) for me with lots of track use. It's the best oil I've used.I've been using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 with E60 on track, which I would consider a "Low or no ester" oil, being a Grp 3+. Although, my motor has very little blow-by and fuel contamination (430f flash point), it shears from a light 40w to a heavy 30w, even with mostly being driven short trips. I change the oil every 4-6k km and get iron wear in the 5ppm/1k mi range. Latest UOA had 2 track days and 90% city short tripping where oil barely gets to temp. Not a bad result for a cheap and plentiful product.
View attachment 252622
Do you use it with ethanol? That's the application being discussed here.HPL Euro 5W40 has stayed in to close to being in grade (12+ cST) for me with lots of track use. It's the best oil I've used.
I'd agree with blackstone, iron wear seems high. This result seems consistent with most of the UOAs I've seen with cars on ethanol.I've been using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 with E60 on track, which I would consider a "Low or no ester" oil, being a Grp 3+. Although, my motor has very little blow-by and fuel contamination (430f flash point), it shears from a light 40w to a heavy 30w, even with mostly being driven short trips. I change the oil every 4-6k km and get iron wear in the 5ppm/1k mi range. Latest UOA had 2 track days and 90% city short tripping where oil barely gets to temp. Not a bad result for a cheap and plentiful product.
View attachment 252622
HPL Euro 5W40 has stayed in to close to being in grade (12+ cST) for me with lots of track use. It's the best oil I've used.
Yes, but not as much, E20-25-ish.Do you use it with ethanol? That's the application being discussed here.
The Fe/1K miles is still below 5ppm/1K miles, lower than the OP's results here at 2x the mileage. My wear is likely from the intake issues I had vs. anything else, just my hypothesis here. Hard to argue with an oil that stayed at or above 12 cSt after 8.5K/8 track days. I'd call that v. compelling looking at lots of UOAs from folks tracking their cars. Look at the mid-year sample...~4K miles and similar wear value for Fe than the end of year/2x that mileage so no better at half the mileage/track days. I'd just say my car's engine sits around 2-3 ppm Fe/1K miles normally and the biggest spike I saw was the one after my intake tube was found to be dusty which makes sense.I'd agree with blackstone, iron wear seems high. This result seems consistent with most of the UOAs I've seen with cars on ethanol.
Their dilution analysis is known to be problematic, I would stick to the assumption that track driving is a high-dilution situation.
I don't find your HPL UOAs to be very compelling. Your recent HPL intervals have Fe/1k increasing significantly compared to when you were doing shorter intervals. And like @Nathan pointed out, you've had one complication or another with most of the recent data. Very hard to draw a conclusion from your testing tbh. From what I recall, you have to use E20 to get the unitronic tune to not pull timing?
Cylinder/ring wear usually goes up significantly with e30+ from the studies I've found.
I'm not doubting HPL is a fine product, but you replaced over a 1/3rd of the sump with fresh oil on that 8.5k change. Your results with regular group III HC oils were even better, <2 ppm/1k on those 2x track day changes. My takeaway from that is I'd just change it 2x as often with oil that's 3-4x cheaper. Expensive oil is good, but fresh oil is always best.The Fe/1K miles is still below 5ppm/1K miles, lower than the OP's results here at 2x the mileage. My wear is likely from the intake issues I had vs. anything else, just my hypothesis here. Hard to argue with an oil that stayed above at or above 12 cSt after 8.5K/8 track days. I'd call that v. compelling looking at lots of UOAs from folks tracking their cars. Look at the mid-year sample...~4K miles and similar wear value for Fe than the end of year/2x that mileage so no better at half the mileage/track days. I'd just say my car's engine sits around 2-3 ppm Fe/1K miles normally and the biggest spike I saw was the one after my intake tube was found to be dusty which makes sense.
I'd agree with blackstone, iron wear seems high. This result seems consistent with most of the UOAs I've seen with cars on ethanol.
Their dilution analysis is known to be problematic, I would stick to the assumption that track driving is a high-dilution situation.
That basically is how BS does this - they infer %fuel based on flash point, I'd say 430 is pretty high/good/indicates min. fuel in your oil. Best is gas-chromatograph analysis for the volatiles if you want a real value.Would you say that flashpoint is not an accurate indication of whether or not there's fuel contamination?
If VOA flashpoint is 455f and my sample reads 430f, can't be much fuel in there, me thinks.