Yeah, EB is used as the solvent of choice ($) in fantastic, windex, and 409. The better choice would be it propylene derivative Dipropylene Glycol mono-methyl ether. The propylene derivative is far less toxic. EB has been shown to exibit penetration through the skin into the blood stream potentially causing liver and kidney effects, as well as blood disorders. Safe handling of EB would definitely include impervious gloves. I say this in particular that used motor oil contains dangerous free radicals accumulated from the blow by gases of of incomplete combustion. Seems natural that should protect themselves from EB providing a route of entry. The rest of the formula appears to be mainly aliphatic distillates, hydrotreated to remove any benzene ring impurities.
Amsoil Flush
- Thread starter SargeGTO
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One of the Amsoil site sponsors even recommends using the engine flush after two Auto-RX treatments (it's posted on his website), as it is great at thinning the oil so it flows out quicker and easier.
Kerosene, mineral spirits, acetone, etc. all volatize at rather low temperatures (when compared to motor oil), and do not stay in the oil for very long once you begin driving.
did you happen to ever find out what made your filters so heavy? did you leave the oil in it or did you have a huge lead PPM spike from your engine making your filters so heavy?
Im sorry but just saying autorx made your filters heavier soooo it must be cleaning out my engine is just plain ole wishful thinking, how much is autorx
I have cut open over 500 oil filters I know what sludge can do and how it is formed, I have never seen a well maintained engine, or even a poor maintained engine shed enough sludge to make a filter heavier due to cleaning.
just dont happen,
could you share with us the brand of synthetic that kept your pushrod from badly wearing?
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Someone did a drive-by post with extra smilies without actually reading the thread.
Please read first post about those heavy filters and take foot out of mouth.
Im sorry but I think we are misunderstood here, I did read this...
I still think that heavy filters amount to
makes no sense to me please esplain
my feet r made for walking...
I changed the oil earlier today after the RX clean phase and it was just a waste of oil.
Oil still came out rather clean after 1500 miles, i'm just glad I used Supertech and not my prized valvoline collection for the clean phase.
The valvoline looks clear, almost white on a dipstick so if the RX cleaned any 'deposits' they will have no where to hide now.
Oil still came out rather clean after 1500 miles, i'm just glad I used Supertech and not my prized valvoline collection for the clean phase.
The valvoline looks clear, almost white on a dipstick so if the RX cleaned any 'deposits' they will have no where to hide now.
Or why is there so much sludge if the original owner only used Amsoil synthetic engine oil. I have used cheapo Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 in my air cooled motorcycle and the inside looked almost brand spanking new after almost 100,000 miles.
Quote:
Quote:
Someone did a drive-by post with extra smilies without actually reading the thread.
Please read first post about those heavy filters and take foot out of mouth.
Im sorry but I think we are misunderstood here, I did read this...
I still think that heavy filters amount to
makes no sense to me please esplain
my feet r made for walking...
I'll try to answer your questions but not really sure what you are asking....
No...I did not cut the filters open...they were "heavy" so I assumed ( and based on the color of the oil coming out of the pan) that they were loaded with "stuff"....as for the oils used....only Amsoil/Shaeffers 7000 used in this motor it's entire life...maybe one or two OCI's with PP...but mainly Shaeffers for the past 50K miles.....the motor is very well maintained....no fuel dilution...PCV operated 100%...excellent air filter ( AEM DryFlow)....it had never been flushed but had a steady diet of AutoRX....we keep it tuned on the dyno at the shop ( For something to do) and the AF is 14's at idle...high 12's at WOT....so she isn't rich by any means....I suspect the "crud" just fell to the bottom of the pan over 100K miles and accumulated.....I "think" AUTORX will dissolve ( to a point) and carry the stuff to the filter....but this stuff ( over a long period of time) accumulated in the oil pan and just responded to a flush.....The flush broke it all up from the bottom of the pan and it circulated into the dual filters firstly and came out of the drain plug once it had been broken up by the Amsoil Flush secondly....I flushed it further with a few quarts of Castrol GTX until what came out of the drain was clear and amber.....then refilled with Shaeffers 7000 10-30......two new filters....she is purring like a kitten and the oil is "new" on the dipstick after a couple of hundred miles.....Somehow this thread has taken on a Pro AutoRX vs. Anti AutoRX flavor and that is not my intention at all....I am a fan of AutoRX and need no convincing AutoRX works as advertised....I am just sharing that the Amsoil Engine Flush is/was a good idea for flushing the leftovers accumalated after 100K. Lastly if there are people who think good quality oils in a well maintained engine result in a pristine internal environment after 100K miles you are dead wrong. Any oil in any engine will accumulate or produce "dirt/stuff" ( call it sludge or not) etc. over time that needs cleaned...this is why we use AutoRX maintenance dose in all our motors religiously....and now will flush with the Amsoil Engine Flush from time to time to insure we have done exactly as the label on the Amsoil bottle proclaims...to "Flush" the motor.....Not sure what your feet are made for walking means so I'll pass on that one
Has anybody read this ? I got my cancer-kidney problems from solvents. Do you ever think that every hydrocarbon you emit with engines using solvents helps pollute. Below is why I invented Auto-Rx it works it is clean chemistry and Auto-Rx tail pipe emissions are not hazardous.
"Yeah, EB is used as the solvent of choice ($) in fantastic, windex, and 409. The better choice would be it propylene derivative Dipropylene Glycol mono-methyl ether. The propylene derivative is far less toxic. EB has been shown to exibit penetration through the skin into the blood stream potentially causing liver and kidney effects, as well as blood disorders. Safe handling of EB would definitely include impervious gloves. I say this in particular that used motor oil contains dangerous free radicals accumulated from the blow by gases of of incomplete combustion. Seems natural that should protect themselves from EB providing a route of entry. The rest of the formula appears to be mainly aliphatic distillates, hydrotreated to remove any benzene ring impurities." posted by Rick 20
Lazaro i will send you some paint thinner i invented (you have to pay shipping -upcharge for hazardous rating) and guess what it will clean your engine-house-tools like new and you only have to wear your hazmat suit 45 days. A Flush is NOT some econmy priced product that works like Auto-Rx we don't create particulates that can stop up an oil screen or a piston port Auto-Rx is a "Cleaner"
"Yeah, EB is used as the solvent of choice ($) in fantastic, windex, and 409. The better choice would be it propylene derivative Dipropylene Glycol mono-methyl ether. The propylene derivative is far less toxic. EB has been shown to exibit penetration through the skin into the blood stream potentially causing liver and kidney effects, as well as blood disorders. Safe handling of EB would definitely include impervious gloves. I say this in particular that used motor oil contains dangerous free radicals accumulated from the blow by gases of of incomplete combustion. Seems natural that should protect themselves from EB providing a route of entry. The rest of the formula appears to be mainly aliphatic distillates, hydrotreated to remove any benzene ring impurities." posted by Rick 20
Lazaro i will send you some paint thinner i invented (you have to pay shipping -upcharge for hazardous rating) and guess what it will clean your engine-house-tools like new and you only have to wear your hazmat suit 45 days. A Flush is NOT some econmy priced product that works like Auto-Rx we don't create particulates that can stop up an oil screen or a piston port Auto-Rx is a "Cleaner"
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Sarge,
How about a dose of Schaeffers Neutra 131 500 miles prior to an oil change. This could eliminate the maintenance dose and possibly the flush as well.
How about a dose of Schaeffers Neutra 131 500 miles prior to an oil change. This could eliminate the maintenance dose and possibly the flush as well.
BrianWC,
You are probably correct. My thought on the neutra is to use it on an already clean motor prior to an oil change as a maintenance type of thing in contrast to a flush.
I am considering using it in lieu of an A-Rx MD. I have a hard time running an oil additive 100% of the time. Just a fear that the host oil will be unable to perform at its full potential. Better to run the host oil solo for 4500 - 5000 miles then add the neutra on the final 500-600 miles of the OCI(imo).
You are probably correct. My thought on the neutra is to use it on an already clean motor prior to an oil change as a maintenance type of thing in contrast to a flush.
I am considering using it in lieu of an A-Rx MD. I have a hard time running an oil additive 100% of the time. Just a fear that the host oil will be unable to perform at its full potential. Better to run the host oil solo for 4500 - 5000 miles then add the neutra on the final 500-600 miles of the OCI(imo).
You'll still be facing the same dilemma as far as flushes go. You're cleaning up after the fact. A maint dose is a preventative. I understand your fears but as arx is not a product such as the aromatic and napthanic solvents, doesn't seem to have any negative effect on he host oil. Matter of fact, if you search on here for JAG's tests, he found that adding arx to M1 made it hold out against deposit formation a tad longer. I also think, if you go to the arx site, that there are the results of used oil analysis showing low wear during some maint dose tests
BrianWC,
My intention is to use Schaeffers Supreme following my rinse phase. The Schaeffers products have a few friction modifiers that plate to the metal surfaces. Will an A-Rx MD interfere with this?
My intention is to use Schaeffers Supreme following my rinse phase. The Schaeffers products have a few friction modifiers that plate to the metal surfaces. Will an A-Rx MD interfere with this?
leebae,
I don't know that the word "Plate" to the metal surfaces is real accurate. Perhaps some polar bonding might be a better description. I have looked at quite a few oil analysis's over the years with ARX installed in the oil, both in the cleaning ratio as well as the maintenance dose. One thing I paid attention to was to check out the additive package of the oil, to see that it was still fully in place after logging normal mileage on each application. I witnessed no incompatability issues. This was evidenced with conventional oils as well as full synthetics. From what I have seen with M1 and PP, running the maintenance dose results were very attractive.
I don't know that the word "Plate" to the metal surfaces is real accurate. Perhaps some polar bonding might be a better description. I have looked at quite a few oil analysis's over the years with ARX installed in the oil, both in the cleaning ratio as well as the maintenance dose. One thing I paid attention to was to check out the additive package of the oil, to see that it was still fully in place after logging normal mileage on each application. I witnessed no incompatability issues. This was evidenced with conventional oils as well as full synthetics. From what I have seen with M1 and PP, running the maintenance dose results were very attractive.
From the Schaeffer website:
"Supreme 7000 does what no other oil can. It protects your engine even when the oil is not there. It incorporates two friction fighters, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, that plate themselves to the internal parts of your engine and protect it against start up wear."
My concern is that an A-Rx MD and these FM's can not work in tandem as they are both adhering to the same surfaces.
"Supreme 7000 does what no other oil can. It protects your engine even when the oil is not there. It incorporates two friction fighters, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, that plate themselves to the internal parts of your engine and protect it against start up wear."
My concern is that an A-Rx MD and these FM's can not work in tandem as they are both adhering to the same surfaces.
Auto-Rx is adhering to nothing(it is a cleaner not an oil additive) Once you rinse it is off the engine parts. In MD mode it cleans and keep the oil performing longer Why do you keep reposting the same post? Did you not understand Rick 20 answer?
Schaeffer's Oil and Auto-Rx is a great combination.
Schaeffer's Oil and Auto-Rx is a great combination.
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I think what they are saying is that when you shut down the engine the micrmoly and penetro are designed to leave a boundry lubrication film behind as the bulk of the oil formulation gravity feeds back to the pan. My guess is that the combo has a polar attraction to metal or metals. I don't see where ARX would negatively affect this in a maintenance dose. Possibly have a synergistic effect. Keeping the metal clean of contaminants would likely help this polar attraction occur over the life of an oil change.
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