Amsoil Engine Flush Results

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Since I was considering a run of Amsoil SSO for another 5,000 to compare to with/without LubeGard added, I'll see if I can buy the combo 'engine flush/oil additive'. That way I can give the LG flush a shot at oil change. I'm about to do a drop and switch over to a cleanup interval myself.

After I used the Amsoil Engine Flush before my current interval, I noticed that it helped pull out some small clumps of grain-like carbon deposits. I'd like to get more cleaning achieved on my top end and by the camshaft and valve cover area before my next extended interval.
 
the g/f RAV is 2K post flush and its still pretty clean.
I also did the 01 Blazer and the post flush oil came out today after 4K. it was just staring to get a little dark so I dumped it. back to my ACD and AC filters.
looks like it has done your Saturn well so far.
 
Engine flush products sometimes can be too aggressive. If anything they may help clean it up some, but it doesn't seem to me like an additive to idle and then drop the old oil will 'condition' it much. Seal swelling? Maybe run a HM oil for a couple oil changes?

Auto-Rx isn't an engine flush additive additive. It's an oil additive for extended use during an interval, not as a last hundred miles or simply idle and drop.
 
Update:

Ok, since it seemed like some Flush was left in the oil given the dark green color, got it to 2,3000 miles on this OCI + I got many cases of FS on deep discount, I went ahead and changed the oil & filter out.

3.5 Qt. MC5k & 1 Qt. Havoline DS, both SM. PureOne Oil Filter. I'll "try" to leave this in 4k...
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lol, OCD? I'm using some of the engine flush again before my cleanup interval coming up. If I don't get clean enough afterward I may look into Kreen.

I'm also curious to see what LG engine flush may produce. Here is the FAQ of their product, sounds like a 'gentle' pre-oil change 'flush' much like Amsoil's product.

http://lubegard.com/faqs.html#8

Yet, from the sound of it, even Amsoil saying it's safe to use at every oil change with their engine flush, you'd figure if it affected extended OCIs, they'd mention this. Any residual amount(remember the VAST majority of your oil is out during the oil change) is so miniscule it's harmless. Your next oil change may come out darker(the green color) as a result of the flush cleaning off the internal surface metals in your engine, and your new oil keeps it suspended this time until the next oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Update:

Ok, since it seemed like some Flush was left in the oil given the dark green color, got it to 2,3000 miles on this OCI + I got many cases of FS on deep discount, I went ahead and changed the oil & filter out.

3.5 Qt. MC5k & 1 Qt. Havoline DS, both SM. PureOne Oil Filter. I'll "try" to leave this in 4k...
lol.gif



Hi, do you have an update to the update?

Is oil consumption still in check in the new OCI?

How much is this Amsoil flush and where can you get it?

I did MMO piston soak and used 0.5 qt MMO in last 1000 miles of OCI, but the oil consumption is still present in my corolla (slightly lower though. Corrolas suffer from sticky rings, just like Saturns.

Also, when the engine is squeaky clean, do you think full synthetic would keep the rings cleaner? Apparently Corollas lower pistons heat to 160C and there is no enough oil circulation the rings (prior to 2004 Corollas).
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Update:

Ok, since it seemed like some Flush was left in the oil given the dark green color, got it to 2,3000 miles on this OCI + I got many cases of FS on deep discount, I went ahead and changed the oil & filter out.

3.5 Qt. MC5k & 1 Qt. Havoline DS, both SM. PureOne Oil Filter. I'll "try" to leave this in 4k...
lol.gif




Hi, do you have an update to the update?

Is oil consumption still in check in the new OCI?

How much is this Amsoil flush and where can you get it?

I did MMO piston soak and used 0.5 qt MMO in last 1000 miles of OCI, but the oil consumption is still present in my corolla (slightly lower though. Corrolas suffer from sticky rings, just like Saturns.

Also, when the engine is squeaky clean, do you think full synthetic would keep the rings cleaner? Apparently Corollas lower pistons heat to 160C and there is no enough oil circulation the rings (prior to 2004 Corollas).


I returned the PM, but will put the answer below...

Yep, the oil is still cleaner and is still using less oil! Yippie!

The local, 35 year career Amsoil salesman had an extra bottle of the old - he said it was slightly stronger so I grabbed it. The newer bottle is to use in trannies to.

It seems like syn has better additive packs, so I'd tend to lean towards a cleaner engine, although PYB is great.

Let me know the results or update the thread...
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Another update:

I did stop and visit the 35 year Amsoil selling guy yesterday (he has hundreds of cases... -->
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He brought out his large handheld meter to test the oil.

He said the wear metals are low. Low contaminants also. No anti-freeze, nothing.
grin.gif


So, it's good to go. I was considering draining it out just in case there was some flush left, but it looks like that's unnecessary...



What kind of oil life meter is this?

-Techniker
 
I used Amsoil's engine flush in the UK roughly 4 years ago in a Nissan Maxima I had back then. It's been an excellent product, and I have been very pleased with it.

If I can comment on engine flushes, I can only say I'm now a religious user. I use Liqui-Moly's Pro-Line Engine Flush at every oil change (cannot get Amsoil in Kuwait). Back in the old days, they were known to cause problems, wear out seals, etc. but modern advances in technology have really overcome those problems, albeit the leak problem can still be an issue. But use it in a healthy engine, and it will keep it clean.
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Quote:
Less solvents, more cleaners. The old Flush did a good job at helping drain the old oil out and certainly helped drain out sludged engines in a nothing less than projectile diarrhea form. But it never really cleaned the rings much. The new Flush, I think, really begins the cleaning process and certainly doesn't contain anything that will harm seals.


I regret ever using the old Amsoil engine flush. That's what I get for being OCD with my engine.

After using the old Amsoil engine flush, I had some blue smoke on start-up for a few weeks. It eventually went away.

2 years leater, the VTC-O ring seal went bad and had to be replaced. I could never prove it, but the old Amsoil engine flush could have very well been the cause of it.



Quote:
Fredsvt04-06-2010, 03:49 PM
The engine flush probably destroyed the valve stem seals.

Adding stuff like that in an already well maintained car is asking for trouble.
The chemicals in it probably hardened the seals. Hopefully it had no effect on the front and rear main oil seals.

Even though you pour it in and drain it, due to the design of the head, the stuff will sit and soak on the valves as it's slower to drain around that area.

You should start to see oil usage. If you see blue smoke on cold starts, that's probably what happened.

I'd also expect to see issues with the timing chain guides, I'm sure the plastic they use isn't too appreciative of that stuff.
 
If you use full bottle of 16oz in a 5 quarts sump for 10-15 minutes then drain, you still have about 1/2 quarts of old oil in the sump. The ratio of 16oz engine flush to 5 quarts oil is 10%, you still have 1.6 oz of engine flush in the remaining 1/2 quart, when you refill the sump with 5 quarts new oil, that 1.6 oz engine flush is still in the engine, which is 1% total capacity.

I use 1 oz engine flush in a 5 quarts sump, drive the car normally for 200-300 miles then change oil. After oil was changed the amount of engine flush remain i engine is about 0.06% of total oil.
 
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