Amsoil Flush

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In Canada, LC20 is very hard to aquire....
I have used kerosene, gasoline, mineral spirits, and even used carb cleaner sprayed on a valve train.

they all worked very well for my purpose...., I use 75% 20w-50 and %25 solvent , for all flushes.
Idle engine for 20-30mins...,. drain for 1+hour.,

then on the next OCI run 10w30 for a short run, and drain.
 
nicholas, who's debate, I though this was a dialog. It's a dialog between some people that have experience with the products and you. You're input is interesting. Spraying carb cleaner on valve train parts would send this dialog in a different direction.
 
It was ask if the oil pan is OEM. No it is not. I have a Moroso oil pan......
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...mp;autoview=sku
We have a dual Perm cool remote filter and usually run NAPA Golds or Baldwins.....
I am so curious of this I think I am going to flush the GTO in the same manner....it has had nothing but synthetics from day one...and AUTORX maintenance doses.....I am also curious if Dyson could tell me anything as I have the oil that came out from the Dodge after the flush in a separate container....not sure what Terry could glean from it but may call him just out of curiosity and see if he could tell me if it was old sludge or just a chemical reaction between the Amsoil Flush and oil....
 
I have been out of town appreciate the "thoughtful" posts.I have no idea as to what happened to the color of oil still left in oil pan after a drain( Sarge you bring the point home (not everything you put into your engine drains out completely) one major reason I don't use solvents. This oil pan residue could have been black from a chemical reaction example you don't mix LC & Auto-Rx.

No harm with Auto-Rx left from drain as Auto-Rx will nuetralize harmful deposits. Auto-Rx cleans slowly & safely
it's formulated to work this way we don't want particulates floating around in the oil just liquified "crud"

I wish "some" people would read our FAQ and Dysons Tests or go on www.cycle-rx.com and read tests 1&2 before they post.

Thanks Again for all the thoughtful posts.
 
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Auto-Rx is a great product. Franks has brought a very good product to market. I've used it with great success ..and have absolutely no problem recommending it.

That being said, it is a totally unique product that I've seen no par with in the market place. Given the potential need for cleaning of existing deposits before entering into an extended oil usage modality, it, more or less, demands a "one shot" quick cleaning agent.

Could you see me convincing a customer to go through 3000 miles of conventional oil (two oil changes, plus a $25+ product - potentially months) to enable them to use my synthetics for (potentially) extended usage? OTOH, you may not want someone entering into an extended drain with whatever disruptions your oil may produce over that type of duration.

Again, Auto-Rx is unique in the market.
 
Because of "some posts' thought these comments might be of interest.


Inside a Volvo

My cousin hit something on the freeway and doinked the cast alum oil pan on his 850 Volvo Turbo. I helped him do the pan change and after looking at the bottom end he did an Auto-Rx treatment to clean it up. He did two cycles at about 150k miles and after the second cycle we removed it again, now that we are experts on oil pans. This time it looked like a brand new engine, exactly like it was assembled that day. The compression did not go up much but now it's dead even in all 5 cylinders, withing a couple of pounds, highest to lowest. It went from a 10psi spread to 3psi spread, plus or minus the gauge accuracy. The underneath was not bad before the treatment but it look dark and you would get black stuff on your fingers. Now it is absolutely clean and you get a clean oil color on your fingers. This is not to say that we don't have better things to do than stick our fingers in a Volvo but the only way to figure out if something works is to try it.

If you want to know who sent this to Auto-Rx go to www.auto-rx.com and click on #1 of "Whats New"
 
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I have used Amsoil oil flush for 5 years, 120+ cars/trucks
normaly with used engine oil before a change and a new oil filter, 20 minutes at 2000 rpm and shut it down. I have cut open every filter, cut the element out for a sample, squeeze out the oil from the media with a bench vise and 9x out of 10 there is an abundance of black speck particles caught in the filter pleats AKA SLUDGE
would never use any other cleaner, not saying AutoRx isn't good.
Amsoil product does the job it has been advertised for.
the Amsoil Power Foam cleans out the combustion side of the engine for a total clean and a happy car owner
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could i use Amsoil engine flush at the end of the rinse phase of autoRX w/o a harmful reaction?
 
WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO ? (from customer not a dealer) I have a 83 El Camino with 345k, always run on synthetic oil since 54k when I got the car, did cleaning phase twice with conventional oil, 1st phase oil came out dirty, oil filter was heavy, 2nd cleaning phase, oil came out clean, filter felt light, mileage is up, now 100 miles into rinse phase, car has more pep to it, before auto-rx valvetrain was loud, now it has quieted down about 50% to 75%, still ticking when going slow but when I speed up to 60 miles per hour I can hardly hear it, a year ago I replaced a pushrod that was badly worn, and one of my rocker arms was badly worn, I am going to replace the pushrods and rocker arms as I realize auto-rx cannot solve mechanical problems, car is running cooler and has more power, I plan on doing a maintenance dose once rinse phase is done, also no more oil leaks and the car did not use any oil when auto-rx was in there, also no smoke on star up, what is strange is that going into the rinse phase the car is running smoother, power is up, any thoughts would be appreciated, this is a great product, I am running a maintenance dose in my 04 Marauder, so far so good, thanks for making a great product, Frank

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I am sure Sarge GTO has had his original post taken out of context, by "some" posters in order to provide a negative atmosphere about a great product. In fact some of you posters caused me to research the experts who work in the automotive industry and know what flushes do for car engines.

extracted from www.toyotaoffroad.com

"Oil additives, you know the ones that almost everyone has tried and most
have not seen much difference, Yea those. Let’s talk about what is really
in them and what they can do to your engine.

There are hundreds of oil additives on the market. Some say that they will
reduce your mileage, or reduce your wear, or reduce your oil consumption,
and some even say that you can run your engine without any oil after
treating your engine with their miracle cure additive.

The truth is that there are 4 types of oil additives.

Solvent is one and it only cleans out deposits left by using a poor oil.
If you use a good oil you should not need to use a solvent in your engine.
Think about it, there is many places in your engine that don’t drain all
the oil out of. You know the small little valleys that hold the oil and
doesn’t drain oil. That still has the solvent it them and will contaminate
your new fresh oil. Solvent will clean out your engine but at what cost?
Solvent is made to break down oils and I for one would never use a solvent
in my engine because it would start to break down my new fresh oil and reduce the oils ability to properly lubricate my engine"

They are talking engine flushes.

They are not talking about an engine cleaner named Auto-Rx

(we don't have any solvents in our product)
 
Autorx doesn't have the same results in every car for whatever reason. It seams like it's often due to poor oil flow and/or a failed PCV. I'm sure a harsh solvent would just eat through crud in this situation, I hope it doesn't jam up something. It seams like a lot of people just can't understand that results vary with ARX. I can understand that because my applications of autorx were simply amazing, nice slow cleaning. I would still go the route of using autorx and replacing the PCV before using something like that.
 
I am 1/4 way into ARX rinse on 120K, 97 Altima, the oil is lighter than usual
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, but from what I can see in the fill hole, there is less varnish on the cam (did not do compression tests, butt dyno says the car feels a BIT more responsive).
I am thinking, I will do the Amsoil flush to see if anything was missed and then drive on cheap Dino for some miles to get rid of the residue. Still on the fence about it, got 1500 miles to see what other people get for results.
 
Did you read Toyota response to using a flush? why would you want to do this is there something you don't understand ? Do you think some one saying "do it" is going to be there if you develop a problem ? Auto-Rx carrys a guarantee however not when you introduce a solvent to the chemistry. They don'mix

And to expect Auto-Rx to continue to protect your engine when your adding chemistry that does nor mix is ludicrious.

Did you read users post about Auto-Rx results ? what more can you expect from Auto-Rx. Last but not least many AMSOIL Dealers use Auto-Rx to clean there customers engines before filling with new oil.Why is that ?
 
Perhaps it may have some useful applications depending on the chemistry, but I would still be nervous in my personal vehicle. If it truly did fill up those filters I can't imagine how it did so without a decent amount of larger pieces of crud being broken loose. It defies logic...

I'm in the camp that'd like to see the results of any oil analysis done on this oil. I'd also like to know what's different about the new AMSOIL flush verses the old where it can be so much more aggressive.
 
Hey folks, anyone got a link to the MSDS for the new formula? I found one on AMSOIL's site dated 4/26/06 but isn't there something newer?
 
Yours appears newer than mine
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HYDROTREATED PETROLEUM DISTILLATE, CAS# 64742-54-7, 15-20%
2-BUTOXYETHANOL, GLYCOL ETHER EB, CAS# 111-76-2, 20-25%
ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATES, CAS# 64742-88-7, appx wt=60-65%
 
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Yours appears newer than mine
confused.gif


HYDROTREATED PETROLEUM DISTILLATE, CAS# 64742-54-7, 15-20%
2-BUTOXYETHANOL, GLYCOL ETHER EB, CAS# 111-76-2, 20-25%
ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATES, CAS# 64742-88-7, appx wt=60-65%




No, it's the same. When you go to the AMSOIL MSDS page, it lists that MSDS as updated 4/26/06 but it links to the 04 MSDS. So is this the new formula or is this a formula no longer in use?

The "2-BUTOXYETHANOL, GLYCOL ETHER EB" is intriguing. I googled it and found it to be the same stuff used in carpet cleaner and Formula 409. But the rest of the stuff seems old-tech. I wonder which does the heavy lifting? Is the butylwhatsits the "rinse aid" we've heard about?
 
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