5k OCI Overkill: M1 EP vs Pennzoil Ultra Platinum

I know this is a bit off topic but I like the 0w30 from redline oil, amsoil and from Exxon Mobil. if you were going to run a 5W30 the regular Mobil one or Pennzoil would be fine. you might even consider the new Quaker State that's full synthetic but supposedly it's a little bit better. it's under $25 so that's also an option. being a turbocharged I wouldn't push it past 5000 miles.
 
kschachn said:
You’re doing a great job of disregarding most of the actually helpful advice in this thread.
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The only real advice I’ve seen was that I can run the oil longer or use a cheaper oil, which doesn’t answer my questions but is at least more useful than the people saying to run a higher viscosity when I specifically said I don’t plan to run a higher viscosity. 👍
 
Cleanneon98 said:
The only real advice I’ve seen was that I can run the oil longer or use a cheaper oil, which doesn’t answer my questions but is at least more useful than the people saying to run a higher viscosity when I specifically said I don’t plan to run a higher viscosity. 👍
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Yes and that's part of why I said that. You said you were being over protective and wanted to keep the vehicle for a long time, and it has been pointed out multiple times that between the two brands you're fixed on it is irrelevant. Especially when you are changing the oil at a short OCI as you are doing. Again, the way you prevent wear is through HT/HS (and good filtration as noted above), so abandoning viscosity by fiat eliminates a key factor in wear and longevity.

You also gain longevity by using an oil that has proven resistance to oxidation and deposit formation and as I pointed out, there are certain manufacturer approvals that are especially relevant to preventing both. LSPI and fuel dilution would definitely be concerns if that were my vehicle yet you don't seen particularly interested in addressing either one.

So without acknowledging any of the advice by people in this thread and instead focusing on what are unknown and not particularly important "differences" between two oils, this thread will only continue to spiral with no resolution.
 

2017 Honda CR-V 1.5T, Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, 10,188 mi

Background info and general thoughts: - This oil fill was installed at the vehicle’s first oil change, which took place at 9,382 miles. - At the time of oil sampling, the vehicle had been driven for more than 30 minutes at highway speeds. OLM was at 5% remaining. A Genuine Honda Oil Filter...
bobistheoilguy.com

Owner continues to run 10-11K intervals with EP 0W20; engine has almost 120K now. Still has the original chain and camshafts.
 
The Critic said:

2017 Honda CR-V 1.5T, Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, 10,188 mi

Background info and general thoughts: - This oil fill was installed at the vehicle’s first oil change, which took place at 9,382 miles. - At the time of oil sampling, the vehicle had been driven for more than 30 minutes at highway speeds. OLM was at 5% remaining. A Genuine Honda Oil Filter...
bobistheoilguy.com

Owner continues to run 10-11K intervals with EP 0W20; engine has almost 120K now. Still has the original chain and camshafts.
Click to expand...
Is it one of those problems that’s not really a problem then? I could try a 0w-30 next especially with some hot months coming, but part of me knows there are a ton of these engines that don’t get maintained as frequently at the dealer and still last
 
If I had to choose between the two oils in the original post, I say M1EP.

Allaneddie said:
This is not a direct comparison. 10,000 miles or one year is recommended for my VW GTI. Only I get about 7000 miles per year on it and do it then. Of course, that is a turbocharged DI engine. I think you are find going more miles between oil changes than 5000 for good care of your Civic and save a little money.
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Or, save a little money by using regular Mobil 1 "vanilla" which is more than adequate for the application, usage and intervals.
M1EP really is extra overkill here, absolutely unnecessary. Same with PUP when PP would work as well. Just saying.
 
Cleanneon98 said:
Is it one of those problems that’s not really a problem then? I could try a 0w-30 next especially with some hot months coming, but part of me knows there are a ton of these engines that don’t get maintained as frequently at the dealer and still last
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It is one of those issues that exists on paper and in an academic context, but in reality, the engines still last long enough for it to not affect most owners.
 
Cleanneon98 said:
Vehicle: 2022 Civic 1.5t Direct Injected
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Driving Style: Commuting and generally easy driving/MPG chasing
Filters Used: 15400-PLM-A02
Fuel Used: Top Tier 87 Octane
Annual Mileage: 15-20k

I know both of these are kind of overkill, but being extra protective of the engine since this is my first new car which I'd like to keep for a long time. I'm between M1 EP and PUP since they seem to be the two best off the shelf offerings, without diving into AMSOIL. I like the M1 because I've used M1 products for 2 decades. I like the PUP since its made from Natural Gas, and claims to offer superior protection for its viscosity. I had actually ordered M1 EP but Amazon cancelled my order so I am using it as an opportunity to explore some other options. NOT interested in alternate suggestions for oil filters, NOT interested in alternate suggestions for fuel, simply want to know of these two, which is the better oil (price not being a factor as they are close enough, IMO). My thought process with going to an extended oil for short intervals, is it SHOULD have a better additive package designed to go 15-20k miles, so changing it out at 5k makes me feel a bit better about the turbocharger. I did run M1 0w-20 in my Prius for intervals up to 10k miles, but there was no turbocharger or DI, so I really feel more comfortable paying a bit more for an extended oil and changing it sooner for this vehicle.
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5K OCI - is my absolute max, but I prefer 4K / 6 months (whichever comes first) with a full synthetic for cars that I care about.
My main concern is sludge/varnish/gummed up piston rings.
My belief is that there are no noticable differences between any brand full synthetic, so I usually choose the lowest priced full synthetic.

I used to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but stopped using it as it's usually on the thin side of each oil grade (Ex: it's 5W-30 borders on a 5W-20 for viscosity@100C). Also, Pennzoil oils tend to have a weaker minimalist anti-wear additive package based on the VOA's I've seen here on BITOG. HTHS matters, and lower HTHS usually means higher wear (just google HTHS wear graph). This is why I permanently switched from 20 grade oils to 30 grade oils.

If money is no object, you may wish to consider High Performance Labs (HPL) PCMO which is an Ester based oil
and keeps the engine internals very clean. From what you mentioned in your thread, HPL PCMO Ester based oil seems like a perfect fit for your goals.
 
Listen to kschachn because he is giving you sensible advice. Since you have a known fuel dilution machine I'd stick with the shorter intervals and you could easily run the QS Euro stuff at Walmart. It is practically a 30W, SP so you are covered for LSPI and it has the HT/HS chops to give you good protection. Plus it is cheap so no pain.
 
I agree, these cars are fuel diluters, higher viscosity and shorter OCI are more important than mobil1 vs pennzoil. UOA would be useful.
 
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