If I was using Amsoil I'd go with 0w40 SS or Dominator 10w30.
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2990.pdf
HPL No VII would be another good choice.
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2018 tuned/tracked Golf Sportwagen 100K/4K OCI HPL Euro 5W40 - uh-oh.....
- Thread starter TiGeo
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https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2990.pdf
HPL No VII would be another good choice.
Interesting. I believe HPL has a similar product..."Bad [profanity] racing oil".If I was using Amsoil I'd go with 0w40 SS or Dominator 10w30.
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2990.pdf
HPL No VII would be another good choice.
My condolences to the stunted minivan. I hope it gets over its latest bout of Covid. Happenstance my family caught covid for the 3rd time too recently, still a bit congested but maybe try an OEM filter and filter housing 
Just a thought. No worries
No way bro, mine is carbon fiber and adds AT LEAST 5 hp up on top and is how I can reach that magic 140mph on the back straight, without it, 138 at most.My condolences to the stunted minivan. I hope it gets over its latest bout of Covid. Happenstance my family caught covid for the 3rd time too recently, still a bit congested but maybe try an OEM filter and filter housing
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
normal paper air filters FTW. have a 1 foot diameter paper air filter on my truck with a pre filter on in.
Everyone pounces on air filter stuff if it's a K&N, or other high-flow product (like I have now). But I've seen plenty of crappy paper filter UOAs and no comments....I have a leak is my guess. 5 years of good UOAs w/r to K&N and even this filter supports "what I use for FTW".
Or, why in the world are you oiling a dry filter? That itself could open it up instead of creating more filtering ability.
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For science! I just did a few '00 miles ago and based it some info I found that this is really just a cotton filter like a K&N, just more densly woven hence not needing oil. My thought was if the f. stuff is getting through, maybe some oil would trap it. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow to assess the last month of use.....stay tuned.
I did....it's above....
It's a Unitronic. It's closed with drain holes in the bottom for water, and is directly open to the front vs. the stock that is not and gets air from the p. side reducing the direct flow issue of debris getting in. I've had it on for over 2 years at this point. I really think this is a leak past the filter..maybe my silicone hose has a tear or the two sides where it clamps to the turbo inlet and intake box aren't as secure as I think. With the open element "filter on a stick" I had before, no issues at all, intake pipe was white-glove test clean (K&N oiled filter on that one). I quite like my current one, very nice looking and closed to engine bay heat.
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Sorry, I posted right after I read your OP. I didn't even go to the second page.
You may have a leak. Also, I'd go for an oil filter.
Is this what you call a filter on a stick?
This is what I got on my Durango, hooked up to a HEMI throttle body, installed on a Pentastar intake manifold, lol.
Yes, that's a filter on a stick! I'm with you, I think the oiled filters are superior contrary to BITOG group-think. Never had an issue with dust in the intake track in the 25+ years i've been using oil filters in a multitude of vehicles. I'm going to get some measurements tomorrow to see what I can find but I really think this is so egregious it's a leak...
Have you tried any of the motul oils? I switched from liquimoly to Motul for my bmws since FCP has motul.
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If you are still blending ethanol with pump fuel that’s why. My recent report shows fuel dilution and viscosity dropping as well with HPL no v 5w30
Yep but I've been doing that for a long time so no real difference here with this change vs. previous ones w/r to e blend (about 20-25%) typically.
Nah no real interest. I do however use Motul RBF600 brake fluid with good results.
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I can't really comment on the viscosity drop to 10 cSt, other than it's strange. You had one UOA with 390F flash point and 12 cSt viscosity. This one is 415F and 10. Strange indeed. The Si is high, but not crazy high. Do you still have the oil filter? Maybe it would be worth disecting.
Is that air filter housing plastic or carbon fiber? Have you consider a hairline crack? If it was me, I'd go back to either stick and a K&N air filter or "filter on a stick". I like using that "sock", the synthetic mesh, over the cone air filter because it keeps out the bigger debris, dirt, liquids, and insects.
[Edit]
Have you considered Mobil 1 0W-30 or 0W-50 racing oil? The add pack is off the charts filled with AW additives.
This is an odd report. The wear metals aren't alarming. The spike is from dirt in the crankcase given the increase for both iron and aluminum. As mentioned, find the sealing issue in the intake.
I'm not buying that KV100. I'd have BS retest that.
I'm not buying that KV100. I'd have BS retest that.
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