That's a lot of work hahaha....I was trying to figure out how to round it out without breaking it. I know a guy at Unitronic, thinking I may get them to just send me that piece but yes, that is more likely than the filter as the source (to me).Hmm, I think you might have found the culprit. Rig up something like this and see if it holds pressure. I bet that dent is the issue.
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Another idea is to assemble it (not on the car), shine a light. if you see any amount of light, well, there is confirmation. or run water though it.That's a lot of work hahaha....I was trying to figure out to round it out without breaking it. I know a guy at Unitronic, thinking I may get them to just send me that piece but yes, that is more likely than the filter as the source (to me).
I'm going with a solid no on that request. I'm quite sure Redline and Amsoil are MORE than up to the task. QS? For $21 zero reason messing with pushing it.Wonder if the OP would consider doing the same with other oils of his choice as a baseline with UOA's, so we could see if 5 track days with 270/280 degrees Farenheit driving mixed with regular driving for 4K OCI would destroy other oils like Amsoil, Redline, or maybe even Quaker State Euro 5W-40 ($21.60 for 5 quart jug at Walmart).
I may mess around with it again tomorrow. I have a hard time believing getting that clamp gutentight won't form that soft silicone hose to the shape?Another idea is to assemble it (not on the car), shine a light. if you see any amount of light, well, there is confirmation. or run water though it.
I may mess around with it again tomorrow. I have a hard time believing getting that clamp gutentight won't form that soft silicone hose to the shape?
Kriby the Wuhan Whirliboi! The more I think on this, this has to be it man....I'm going to see about getting a new pipe.kirby wants to suck all that air in at 5psi idling, and more under load (racing). Just a small gap is all kirby needs.
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Get an exhaust pipe expander.That's a lot of work hahaha....I was trying to figure out how to round it out without breaking it. I know a guy at Unitronic, thinking I may get them to just send me that piece but yes, that is more likely than the filter as the source (to me).
I was already on it..haha...have one!Get an exhaust pipe expander.
I'm going with a solid no on that request. I'm quite sure Redline and Amsoil are MORE than up to the task. QS? For $21 zero reason messing with pushing it.
It's not that I wouldn't use it, I have! I have tracked Liquimoly oils (Leichtlauf High Tech and Molygen, both 5W40) multiple times with data presented. I used QS for a run on this car just for fun. I have run it in my Passat and my son runs it currently in his GTI...good stuff and I'm sure it would endure track use, the issue is why push for a long-run and multiple track days on an oil that is so inexpensive? But I agree, the approvals indicate it will be fine, my guess is the issue will be viscosity drop which I do not want and HPL has shown to excel at maintaining.That's fine. Was just a thought.
It's easy to think of an oil's stellar reputation and high price which should imply a superior oil (ex: Redline, Amsoil),
Another way to look at it is certifications. The Quaker State Euro 5W-40 ($22.97 at Walmart) has:
BMW LL-01; MB-Approval 229.5; Porsche A40; VW 502.00/ 505.00
Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil, 5 Quart - Walmart.com
Buy Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil, 5 Quart at Walmart.comwww.walmart.com
I only mentioned it as it would be interesting to see how a low priced ACEA A3/B4 MB 229.5 approved oil would perform in extreme conditions, but I completely understand and respect your view about not using it.
Nothing is free in racing. I don't know a single person in my racing circles that doesn't change their oil/filter after a track outing or a drag race event, not one. It is nearly a certainty that you will generate wear metals while racing, get them out of the sump to the extent possible, as soon as possible.