2018 tuned/tracked Golf Sportwagen 100K/4K OCI HPL Euro 5W40 - uh-oh.....
- Thread starter TiGeo
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That's a lot of work hahaha....I was trying to figure out how to round it out without breaking it. I know a guy at Unitronic, thinking I may get them to just send me that piece but yes, that is more likely than the filter as the source (to me).
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Another idea is to assemble it (not on the car), shine a light. if you see any amount of light, well, there is confirmation. or run water though it.
Wonder if the OP would consider doing the same with other oils of his choice as a baseline with UOA's, so we could see if 5 track days with 270/280 degrees Farenheit driving mixed with regular driving for 4K OCI would destroy other oils like Amsoil, Redline, or maybe even Quaker State Euro 5W-40 ($21.60 for 5 quart jug at Walmart).
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I'm going with a solid no on that request. I'm quite sure Redline and Amsoil are MORE than up to the task. QS? For $21 zero reason messing with pushing it.
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I may mess around with it again tomorrow. I have a hard time believing getting that clamp gutentight won't form that soft silicone hose to the shape?
kirby wants to suck all that air in at 5psi idling, and more under load (racing). Just a small gap is all kirby needs.
Kriby the Wuhan Whirliboi! The more I think on this, this has to be it man....I'm going to see about getting a new pipe.
Get an exhaust pipe expander.
I was already on it..haha...have one!
That's fine. Was just a thought.
It's easy to think of an oil's stellar reputation and high price which should imply a superior oil (ex: Redline, Amsoil),
Another way to look at it is certifications. The Quaker State Euro 5W-40 ($22.97 at Walmart) has:
BMW LL-01; MB-Approval 229.5; Porsche A40; VW 502.00/ 505.00
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-S...W-40-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/737859365?from=/search
I only mentioned it as it would be interesting to see how a low priced ACEA A3/B4 MB 229.5 approved oil would perform in extreme conditions, but I completely understand and respect your view about not using it.
It's not that I wouldn't use it, I have! I have tracked Liquimoly oils (Leichtlauf High Tech and Molygen, both 5W40) multiple times with data presented. I used QS for a run on this car just for fun. I have run it in my Passat and my son runs it currently in his GTI...good stuff and I'm sure it would endure track use, the issue is why push for a long-run and multiple track days on an oil that is so inexpensive? But I agree, the approvals indicate it will be fine, my guess is the issue will be viscosity drop which I do not want and HPL has shown to excel at maintaining.
Approvals are approvals but that doesn't mean an oil can be better than that....keep that in mind. Approvals are minimums. Most of the top-line oils have none!
Intake saga update. The aluminum is v. soft. I easily straightened by eyeball with some channel locks. The exhaust spreader wasn't necessary and I didn't want to break it. I tightened the clamp down HARD so hopefully it's sealed. If not, I may just buy a new pipe, easy and cheap enough. I *think* based on how ductile the metal is, the irregularites are from the clamp itself tightening down on it...the flat spot is about where the worm gear portion would sit. I got this used so well...there it is.
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Maybe if you're using the thinnest, cheapest oil possible for more horsetorques and it shears down a grade in a single track day. We oil enthusiasts that run it thick and buy quality stuff like HPL understand that it can handle the abuse.
If your oil and your engine components are up to the task, the increase in wear from racing should be quite small.
NO filter performs properly when it's being bypassed.
At some point you have to choose between race engine wear rates and performance or street engine wear rates and performance.
A K&N oiled gauze style filter is better than no filter at all (which is far more common in racing engines), but it is not going to achieve the filtration performance of a dry element OEM style filter using modern dry synthetic media. I wanted to say this for the record, but also point out that the difference is not relevant to your present issue.
You have a well-developed trend using that same filtration setup. There's zero correlation between your sudden change in silicon levels and a sudden change in filter style-- you've had this filter setup on all along, I gather.
I agree, you most likely have an intake leak allowing the filter to be bypassed. If you cannot find a leak, you might wish to consider replacing the filter element with another K&N (or other competitor-- AFE, etc). It's possible that a filter has degraded when it's not supposed to, and this is independent of the basic filter media used. For example, a paper filter can be pretty efficient for particle removal, but if it gets wet, collapses and puts all flow in bypass, not so much.
You missed that I did have a change - I had an oiled K&N for a LONG time but a few years ago changed intakes and the filter is now a dry type high-flow. Filter is new. Bypass through a leak was hte likely culprit. Also...I had done this a few times, drained the oil to change out a leaking drain plug and then re-used. While I tried to make sure the drain pan was clean, it's highly likely some dust was entrained in the used oil and then fed back into the engine.
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Thanks for correcting my misunderstanding. My antipathy for oiled gauze not withstanding, it sounds like it was working for you and this new filter is leaving something to be desired. And at this point it's not clear whether it's the filter itself (i.e. poor media or poor construction) or rather something leaking in the installation of this filter.
Nobody has brought this up yet, and it sounds like OP has good success with K&N. Not arguing with that at all just offering another view.
In the desert here in AZ AFe and K&N both were rather unimpressive with dust passing. AFe being much worse. I use UNI 2 or 3 stage oiled foam. No dust passes that I can see. Better than stock air box with paper. UNI is almost never mentioned on forums, not sure why. They have a fairly large selection of universal spigot mount filters, and OEM drop in, on a limited scale. They also will oil foul MAF sensors less because of tackiness of oil used vs K&N. All my non-stock cars and all my bikes, dirt and street have had these for years. Just my .02.
In the desert here in AZ AFe and K&N both were rather unimpressive with dust passing. AFe being much worse. I use UNI 2 or 3 stage oiled foam. No dust passes that I can see. Better than stock air box with paper. UNI is almost never mentioned on forums, not sure why. They have a fairly large selection of universal spigot mount filters, and OEM drop in, on a limited scale. They also will oil foul MAF sensors less because of tackiness of oil used vs K&N. All my non-stock cars and all my bikes, dirt and street have had these for years. Just my .02.
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