2018 tuned/tracked VW Golf Sportwagen 104K/4K mid-OCI checkup after 3x track days HPL Euro 5W40

TiGeo

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Looks great for ~6 mos/4K and 3 track days where the oil temp was sitting around 270 deg F the entire weekend (I estimate about 3 hours of actual driving). 10/10 recommend. Will keep it in and push the whole year on it so 5 more track days and probably 4-5K more miles. 13.11 cSt 100 is fantastic (assuming that is right). Metals dropped which is great, I did swap out intake pieces in an attempt to fix a possible leak/dust in my intake tube noted with the spike in wear metals last change. Note I did add a ~1/2 qt so a small % of more fresh oil here.

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As is evidenced by @OVERKILL and @Astro14 running long OCIs under "normal" conditions with the premium HPL offerings. I think 8K (I think that's will I'll land on this car this year) with the 8 track days will be just fine and if I get to the end and do a final UOA and isn't great, I won't have damaged anything worth mentioning I'm sure, I'll just know that it can't quite go that many track days, I may go ahead and pull another sample for the fun of it/for science after say 3 more track days to have the data point even though the result won't be received until end of year at that point when I'm done. Will be a killer dataset for this "experiment". I continue to NOT see any reason to mess with the no-VII product.
 
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Nice, looks like you fixed the intake issue. Should get confirmation next UOA. Data is legion.
New silicone hose and clamps plus fixed the slight bend in the metal tube portion due to over-tightening. I mean, 10ppm of that is in the VOA and a bit more Si isn't killing me I'd say b/c I do like the extra flow.

Edit. I STILL think an oiled K&N vs. this dry flow filter would filter better.....

Edit. Forgot to mention I also installed a new dry flow filter as well.
 
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New silicone hose and clamps plus fixed the slight bend in the metal tube portion due to over-tightening. I mean, 10ppm of that is in the VOA and a bit more Si isn't killing me I'd say b/c I do like the extra flow.
There would be some carryover from the previous contaminated oil. The Si probably started out at more like 15 ppm after the oil change, so 27 ppm isn't that bad. The iron would have started out a bit higher than normal as well.

If you installed a new air filter, you can expect it to have poor efficiency until it loads up with some dust. There might still be a bit of dust shedding from the intake piping or intercooler too if you didn't clean it all out. I wouldn't judge the filter based on this UOA, but you'll want to see lower Si on the next one.
 
There would be some carryover from the previous contaminated oil. The Si probably started out at more like 15 ppm after the oil change, so 27 ppm isn't that bad. The iron would have started out a bit higher than normal as well.

If you installed a new air filter, you can expect it to have poor efficiency until it loads up with some dust. There might still be a bit of dust shedding from the intake piping or intercooler too if you didn't clean it all out. I wouldn't judge the filter based on this UOA, but you'll want to see lower Si on the next one.
Agreed.
 
Looks great for ~6 mos/4K and 3 track days where the oil temp was sitting around 270 deg F the entire weekend (I estimate about 3 hours of actual driving). 10/10 recommend. Will keep it in and push the whole year on it so 5 more track days and probably 4-5K more miles. 13.11 cSt 100 is fantastic (assuming that is right). Metals dropped which is great, I did swap out intake pieces in an attempt to fix a possible leak/dust in my intake tube noted with the spike in wear metals last change. Note I did add a ~1/2 qt so a small % of more fresh oil here.

S084275-page-001.jpg

Screenshot 2024-07-17 192043.jpg
Have you notified Liquimoly of these results yet?
 
Just curious, do you know why the iron is so high in these last 2 runs vs the previous ones?
 
I thought these VW's fall apart after 100k? Strange.
Worst engines ever built. Over-complicated. Unreliable. Seriously, if you drove it you'd think it was new. I'm very impressed with the MK7 gen Golfs and likely will try to find one for my youngest when he starts driving next year, 2015-17 MK7 (not facelift 7.5) can be had for a reasonable cost now.
 
Worst engines ever built. Over-complicated. Unreliable. Seriously, if you drove it you'd think it was new. I'm very impressed with the MK7 gen Golfs and likely will try to find one for my youngest when he starts driving next year, 2015-17 MK7 (not facelift 7.5) can be had for a reasonable cost now.
I see a lot of MK7's on track with 2.0T in GTI. Though here they have issue with oil cooling, but than, most vehicles do unless Porsche, Corvette, M, AMG or GT-R and similar.
 
I see a lot of MK7's on track with 2.0T in GTI. Though here they have issue with oil cooling, but than, most vehicles do unless Porsche, Corvette, M, AMG or GT-R and similar.
Yes, that's the primary issue, not great in hot weather (here near sea level at least) but I just try to avoid the hot season really, in fall-spring it peforms to my abilities without overheating. That fine line between a daily driven car you take to the track for some fun once in a while and want to maintain it's "daily-ability" and moving more towards a track car that has it's own downsides. Some great MK7 oil cooler info/testing on my buddy's site here...they have their own issues mainly if you don't mount it in the righ tlocation/don't duct out the hot exhaust air it can hammer you power by raising the intake air temps too much. Also, I wonder how cold season oil warm up is impacted.

 
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VIR temp log on this oil back in May. I overheated it a bit (not really) - coolant at 235+ starts to be an issue/required me to back off and this will almost always correspond to oil temps at 275+ due to the heat exchanger. Auto/DSG trans fluid also a factor.

 
VIR temp log on this oil back in May. I overheated it a bit (not really) - coolant at 235+ starts to be an issue/required me to back off and this will almost always correspond to oil temps at 275+ due to the heat exchanger. Auto/DSG trans fluid also a factor.

Can you remove cowling and other plastic stuff under the hood? Also what about CSF aluminum radiator?
 
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