2018 tuned/tracked Golf Sportwagen 100K/4K OCI HPL Euro 5W40 - uh-oh.....

Ok...the plot thickens....I just realized that I used this on my drain bolt because I was getting some leaking....could this be the source of the Si?

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This is an odd report. The wear metals aren't alarming. The spike is from dirt in the crankcase given the increase for both iron and aluminum. As mentioned, find the sealing issue in the intake.

I'm not buying that KV100. I'd have BS retest that.
Also Cu increased which is really weird!
 
Ok...the plot thickens....I just realized that I used this on my drain bolt because I was getting some leaking....could this be the source of the Si?

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Unlikely. That's based on dimethacrylate ester which is a product of reacting ethylene glycol with a methacrylic acid. The former is a hydrolyzed product of ACH + sulfuric acid and the later is ethylene that's been oxidized and hydrolyzed into a glycol. I don't see where silicon would be present. The remaining is PTFE which further makes me think siloxanes aren't present as the two don't tend to like each other.
 
Also Cu increased which is really weird!

Not trying to start a lab war in the thread, but I would ask BS to rerun this sample entirely with a fresh calibration. Back when I used BS in my early days of doing UOAs, they mixed up one of my samples and lost another one. I had one from ALS that had a typo for the iron (127 vs 27) and it's possible the KV100 is 12.29 and someone fat fingered the zero.
 
Have any oil left for another sample? Try a different lab and see what happens. Not really a fan of BS, but good enough for trending I suppose.
 
With dust in the intake, I think you’ve found your source of the elevated Si and therefore, the elevated wear metals.

You changed the intake, then found dust in the tract, and discovered increased wear.

That’s a pretty clear cause.
Somewhat correct...I've had this intake on for 2 years and noted dust several times in the past with "normal" UOA results w/r to wear metals/Si or that were related to other issues (repair). Here is interesting b/c I didn't change anything that I know of but clearly as you say, this is related...with such egregious values I have to believe there is a gap somewhere letting unfiltered air in and I do remove the intake somewhat regularly to access various things so just had to goof it that time I suspect/self-induced. Viscosity drop is quite surprising vs. previous results that were excellent (anything in the 12s for this engine). This may be the winner for lowest I've ever seen or at least tied with a run of M1 0W40 and LM Molygen.
 
Ok, I tore it all apart, there is nothing that indicates a crack, leak, tear, etc. I did my best to get all the flanges tight/clamped well. Not really any dust in there after a month since messing around and spraying a bit of oil on the filter. K&N universal will be tough, the filter has to be fairly narrow to fit in the carbon fiber air box...there may be a few that can work. I emailed K&N the dimensions for them to check vs. what I could find on their site using the search by dimensions tool. If I see this is again I can always sell this for enough to pay for something different.
 
I've repeatedly seen high silicon in UOAs with K&N air filters. They have the filtration efficiency of a tennis racket. A neighbor had that issue with 2 UOAs with high Si, switched to a paper filter and the Si dropped by >50%.
Yes, so please explain all of my UOAs over multiple vehicles with K&N that have no elevated Si? This blanket statement doesn't work likey you/others want it too. Plus, here is the magical BITOG-approve dry flow filter and guess what? You see the data...I've also seen high Si with paper filters and of course BITOG-verse...silence...there is more than one variable here.

I have 5 years of UOAs on that graph with K&N and now the dry filter for all of it, look at the Si...it's normal for all of it sans the repair with the sealer and the overall increase going to HPL that has ~10ppm VOA.
 
~100K mi UOA back from sample collected almost a month ago now (BS is slooow). Well, it's not pretty. This HPL Euro 5W40 had ~4K mi including 5x track days over a relatively short time period (~2 mos). These track days saw oil temps in the 270-280 deg F range for 20-45 min at a time. I have gotten better on track and am pushing my car much harder than in the past as evidenced by a consistent drop in my lap times at multiple tracks. I've included my running trend graph in analyte ppm/1K mi to normalize OCI length. Keep in mind this 1.8L turbo is making ~200hp/L.....

Viscosity drop:
The viscosity drop is very concerning, I haven't seen that before with HPL and the flashpoint is high indicating that this isn't fuel but I would wager there is some fuel in there, I really need to get a split sample next time for analysis at a different lab using GC to actually see a real fuel number. I can tell you that based on this UOA, I am NOT pushing OCIs past 4-5K as I had previously said I would do this year...doing the full year/track season/10K miles on a change. Forget that. I'd say this pushed it too far. I'm not going to change after every track weekend either but maybe every other and accept this as a consumable cost. I would even consider just going back to FCP Euro Liquimoly kits that are free and just changing them more regularly b/c the cost is nearly zero...we'll see. Also considered giving Amsoil a shot to throw some positive vibes to @Pablo.



Wear metals:
Terrible. I tend to agree with BS here, the VERY high Si is the likely cause. I have said in previous posts that I have noted dust in my intake hose since changing intakes a few years ago. Previously with a K&N oiled filter with the stock air box as well as a different open-element intake, I saw no issues/clean intake tract and v. low/normal Si levels (prev. elevated Si was direclty related to sealer used in a v. large repair as well as the ~10ppm VOA Si that the HPL oil has). This filter is a dry-flow filter from the intake manufaturer (maybe re-branded AEM?). I have to have a sealing issue/hole so tomorrow I'll be removing my intake and REALLY combing it over for a leak/sealing issue. A few weeks ago I had it off for a different reason and noting the excessive f. dust, cleaned the components thoroughly with Simple Green/soap/water/toliet brush and oiled the filter (even though I know you really don't need/aren't supposed to)....I'm curious how it looks after doing that b/c I believe the oil is a better trap for the fine dust...if the filter is even the issue here. I will get to the bottom of this stat! I have considered taking measurements and buying a K&N that fits my intake....they make a ton of universal fit filters but first need to spend a conserted effort and determining if there is a leak somewhere allowing the dust in/if the dry filter is even an issue. My poor turbo ahahahaha

I did a compression test in the fall with excellent results - 180psi across all 4 cylinders so I don't think this is killing my engine at this point but I do plan on doing them each year when I change my plugs so hopefully no drama after this. Also plan on picking up a cheap boroscope to have a look-see in the cylinders at that time as well.

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Viscosity @40C and @100C respectively are 90.58cst 14.39cst. I would be floored if this oil actually dropped that much. Perhaps @High Performance Lubricants can lend some insight.
 
Ok, I tore it all apart, there is nothing that indicates a crack, leak, tear, etc. I did my best to get all the flanges tight/clamped well. Not really any dust in there after a month since messing around and spraying a bit of oil on the filter. K&N universal will be tough, the filter has to be fairly narrow to fit in the carbon fiber air box...there may be a few that can work. I emailed K&N the dimensions for them to check vs. what I could find on their site using the search by dimensions tool. If I see this is again I can always sell this for enough to pay for something different.
I’m not familiar with modern veedubs, but if there is a removable elbow on the Intake side of the turbo make sure the bolts haven’t backed out. I’ve seen this before on other cars (mostly ST’s)
 
I’m not familiar with modern veedubs, but if there is a removable elbow on the Intake side of the turbo make sure the bolts haven’t backed out. I’ve seen this before on other cars (mostly ST’s)
MK7, held in with one bolt and has an o-ring. All the dust I see is before that in the intake tract so unlikely source.
 
How come that's no issue? isn't your engine a T-GDI?
So VW spec'ing VW502 full saps oil for my car is an issue? Yes, TGDI, why is a full saps oil problematic? That's what I run now and have been running for 5 years.
 
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