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To everyone that knows this oil, is this true? It has a viscosity index over 210 but has such a warm pour point of -27c???? Is it a typo? As a person who lives in a climate that goes down to -40c, I am concerned. PP 5w20 has a pour point of -51c.

Walmart has this stuff on at a great price. Is this stuff any good or is it sub-par compared to past Syntec oils?

Anyone else notice that PP tends to burn off more than other oils which leads to more topping up? I am noticing on my 2005 300c HEMI that I have had to top up over a liter over the past month or so. Seems to happen when doing highway driving. Oil has 4300 miles on it. It didn't happen at all...

Does anyone know who supplies it?

Ok, here are the two oils in question. Mobil 1 5w50 cst @ 40c = 105 cst @ 100c = 17.3 Viscosity index = 153 Mobil 1 5w30 cst @ 40c = 64.8 cst @ 100c = 11.3 Viscosity index = 169 Does anyone know the calculation for say the viscosity at -25c? Could someone help me out here?

Ok, swapped the stat out and it was trashed. Engine gets up to 95c in 10 minutes now and the heater output is stifling. I think this has been a problem for quite some time. Here is the thermostat front: Notice something weird. Notice that the material all around it is missing? Thankfully...

Anyone have the chart of the difference between 10w, 5w, 0w etc.... I am trying to find it and I am having one helluva problem finding it.

Seeing there isn't a while lot of thread on the 300C HEMI I just wanted to see who uses what? Anyone seen a UOA on a MDS equipped HEMI yet?

I know Shell supposed supplies their oil but who makes their synthetic 5w20? Shell makes Quaker State and Pennzoil so could this be a rebadged Quaker State or Pennzoil Platinum?

Now seeing I was reading about the Esso XD3 0w30 I am using and it was said that it is low in friction modifiers and therefore doesn't have the starburst. What possible problems can or may be occuring when using an oil such as this in a gasoline engine?

I know there is a line where you can't use one in the other. Why is this? What is the real difference in additives?

Is it really necessary? I just replaced the plugs and I don't want to do them again. I need to get the chamber clean for the winter.

I know that you don't judge oil by its looks, but I just changed the oil on my 1995 Blazer with a 4.3L Vortec. Old Oil: 3.3L of Esso XD3 1.0L of Mobil1 5w20 Maintanence Dose of AutoRX: Couple Oz or so. Miles on oil: ~4000miles Date Oil Changed: Early February Reason Oil Changed: Leaking rad...

Just for fun I was testing out my filter stash of Quaker State filters against the new Valvoline Maxlife oil filters I just bought on sale. As a crude but effective test I sealed and blew into the center portion to seal if there was a decent seal. Two of the three Quaker State filters were...

Just finished the inital shock dosage on the directions on both my 1998 Neon and my 1995 Blazer. Neon is up 5MPG to 36.5MPG and the Blazer is up 2MPG to 19MPG. Pinging is all gone. Friend is using it in his 1992 Civic and he has seen a raise in economy as well. Use it guys, I have done...

I read the manual for my mower and it said to change the factory fill after 4 hours which I deemed perfect for break in as well. I then changed the oil and was absolutely ASTONISHED to see the amount of metal flake in the dropped oil. The oil was still clear and colorless, but it looked exactly...

I am running XD-3 0w30 synthetic and want to add some moly into the works. Any additive that I can add that has the good moly in decent amounts?

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/ I hope this is temporary!

I know people have been likeing or bashing this product but I have NEVER used a product that goes on so easy. It also does wonders on smooth plastic and cleans off the oxidation and brings them back to life. I have a black truck and have used them all and this stuff will never be replaced in...

I was wondering what you guys thought about it. Is it a market hype more than anything or do they have some valid points? Comments are welcome.....