Would you continue using Mannol?

[Johnson Johnson]

My personal experience of Mannol isn't fine TBH. I always drive high mileage cars, and it is consistently burnt at a much higher rate than the more expensive brands. Valvoline, Shell, Futches etc.

They've sold oils from what I understand with 'Easter Additives' that have been found to contain no Easter at all, dodgy brake fluid that doesn't meet the requirements of dot 4, and contrary to popular opinion they're not based or made in Germany.

 

[rondhol]

Yes, It is Lithuanian manufacturer with office in Germany. Probably the base is from cheap Russian oil. I contacted API and their 7918 Oil is actually not API certified, no API donuts logo either. It is only API SP spec.
Burning rate of engine oil is more related on how fast we drive in worn engine. Less on the oil brands.
That's why I only use Mannol oil that are indeed certified, but now using local brand, Fuchs, also cheap and more trusty without flashy marketing.

 

[Johnson Johnson]

Yes, It is Lithuanian manufacturer with office in Germany. Probably the base is from cheap Russian oil. I contacted API and their 7918 Oil is actually not API certified, no API donuts logo either. It is only API SP spec.
Burning rate of engine oil is more related on how fast we drive in worn engine. Less on the oil brands.
That's why I only use Mannol oil that are indeed certified, but now using local brand, Fuchs, also cheap and more trusty without flashy marketing.

Futches is a good brand. Nope, I don't drive the car any differently depending on which oil I use. Mannol isn't a good brand IMO, that's why they've been caught cheating.

 

[Johnson Johnson]

i hear smith and allan is a serious blender there..and cheap

Actually, what do you mean by 'serious blender' ?

 

[svenson]

Yes, It is Lithuanian manufacturer with office in Germany. Probably the base is from cheap Russian oil. I contacted API and their 7918 Oil is actually not API certified, no API donuts logo either. It is only API SP spec.
Burning rate of engine oil is more related on how fast we drive in worn engine. Less on the oil brands.
That's why I only use Mannol oil that are indeed certified, but now using local brand, Fuchs, also cheap and more trusty without flashy marketing.

can you explain it more on that?

Actually, what do you mean by 'serious blender' ?

the opposite of mannol

 

[svenson]

, Futches etc.

h 'Easter Additives' that have been found to contain no Easter at all,

Futches is a good brand.

easter... ? you mean esters
and who is futches? do you mean fuchs by that?

 

[Johnson Johnson]

easter... ? you mean esters
and who is futches? do you mean fuchs by that?

Are you accusing me of being a serious misspeller?

Because you'd have a point. I'm going to use the Smith and Allan oil. I can't tell you all what it's going in, because I'll get roasted for that too!

 

[rondhol]

I used to have Nissan Altima 02 with nutorious QR25DE engine. It burns oil regardless brands I used. If I drive below 70mph, it consumed about 1Q every 1k miles, but once I drove 80mph or above, it burned 1Q every 500 miles.
I believe that any oil that meet API SP or ACEA Cx, are good oil and should be fine with 5k-10k miles interval, depends on how we drive the cars.
Most Engine OIl brands: Kirkland, Supertech, Petronas, etc. just get the base oil from Exxon, Chevron, Eneos, and slap the approved/tested additives packages from Lubrizol, Afton Chem, Oronite, Infinium and get API approval. Otherwise, they have to pay hundreeds of thousands $ just to get the API approval.

 

[Johnson Johnson]

I used to have Nissan Altima 02 with nutorious QR25DE engine. It burns oil regardless brands I used. If I drive below 70mph, it consumed about 1Q every 1k miles, but once I drove 80mph or above, it burned 1Q every 500 miles.
I believe that any oil that meet API SP or ACEA Cx, are good oil and should be fine with 5k-10k miles interval, depends on how we drive the cars.
Most Engine OIl brands: Kirkland, Supertech, Petronas, etc. just get the base oil from Exxon, Chevron, Eneos, and slap the approved/tested additives packages from Lubrizol, Afton Chem, Oronite, Infinium and get API approval. Otherwise, they have to pay hundreeds of thousands $ just to get the API approval.

I'd agree, apart from that particular brand beginning with M. There was also another brand under name of Triple XX I tried, again it was just burnt. I switched to a better known quality oil and the consumption virtually stopped. 530d 250,000 miles.

 

[Johnson Johnson]

I used to have Nissan Altima 02 with nutorious QR25DE engine. It burns oil regardless brands I used. If I drive below 70mph, it consumed about 1Q every 1k miles, but once I drove 80mph or above, it burned 1Q every 500 miles.
I believe that any oil that meet API SP or ACEA Cx, are good oil and should be fine with 5k-10k miles interval, depends on how we drive the cars.
Most Engine OIl brands: Kirkland, Supertech, Petronas, etc. just get the base oil from Exxon, Chevron, Eneos, and slap the approved/tested additives packages from Lubrizol, Afton Chem, Oronite, Infinium and get API approval. Otherwise, they have to pay hundreeds of thousands $ just to get the API approval.

I'd agree, apart from that particular brand beginning with M. There was also another brand under name of Triple XX I tried, again it was just burnt. I switched to a better known quality oil and the consumption virtually stopped. 530d 250,000

easter... ? you mean esters
and who is futches? do you mean fuchs by that?

I mean, can't we just even this out, I don't see the need for loggerheads?