Would you consider Valvoline Restore and Protect in your Euro car?

except the oil you use,or HPL which i cant find it in europe,do you share the love for M1 esp 0-30 ester oil for such a case? is it ester enough for such a use?
Some people have found that M1 ESP does some cleaning (and there some ongoing cleaning projects with it that will be reported this fall), but it will not be as fast nor as profound as what you'd get with HPL.
 
Does Amsoil SS have ANs? Do you think that explains the big difference in cleaning seen with HPL despite both being premium oils?
I really can't say how any oil can really clean existing deposits or varnish other than VRP. Everything else has been anecdotal and based on limited information. You need a specific aniline point to clean and many POE and adipate esters have great solvency. AN is also a base oil that adds solvency, so it could be why HPL appears to have better cleaning ability. However the amounts used would also play a part in whether it runs clean or can clean/to what degree. I don't know what Amsoil uses they don't say anything anymore about base oils. HPL also has high detergent levels. Only a chemist or formulator could likely answer this question.

Valvoline was one of the first to actually develop an oil specifically designed to clean with their VPBR oil. They worked with Cummins on it so they're very familiar with what it takes (see their patents). Consider that VPBR is 50% POE, however it's only to be used one time. So in theory you'd think HPL/SS would clean over time as well. Oddly enough Dave G from RL said RL would not clean but run clean. I believe @JAG said that RL did not clean in one of his engines.
 
I really can't say how any oil can really clean existing deposits or varnish other than VRP. Everything else has been anecdotal and based on limited information. You need a specific aniline point to clean and many POE and adipate esters have great solvency. AN is also a base oil that adds solvency, so it could be why HPL appears to have better cleaning ability. However the amounts used would also play a part in whether it runs clean or can clean/to what degree. I don't know what Amsoil uses they don't say anything anymore about base oils. HPL also has high detergent levels. Only a chemist or formulator could likely answer this question.

Valvoline was one of the first to actually develop an oil specifically designed to clean with their VPBR oil. They worked with Cummins on it so they're very familiar with what it takes (see their patents). Consider that VPBR is 50% POE, however it's only to be used one time. So in theory you'd think HPL/SS would clean over time as well. Oddly enough Dave G from RL said RL would not clean but run clean. I believe @JAG said that RL did not clean in one of his engines.
Yes I read that recently as well -- about how RL oils with their high ester content but still not cleaning. There is a user here who resolved an oil burning issue with Redline Euro Performance though. Can't remember the username. Wish I had saved the post.

Edit: I think it was @Mainia in this post. It was actually fuel dilution issues which he resolved with Redline.
 
Yes I read that recently as well -- about how RL oils with their high ester content but still not cleaning. There is a user here who resolved an oil burning issue with Redline Euro Performance though. Can't remember the username. Wish I had saved the post.
It's possible it can but no one tested it long enough. 🤷‍♂️ Everything is just an opinion really. 99% of everything is all opinion here LOL.
 
There is a guy on YT that put Royal Purple HPS (one that has POE) and it removed varnish in his BMW (guess the Euro oil wasn't cutting it). So I'm going to say that the oils using a decent amount for solvency - HPL, SS, Torco and RL could likely clean. That's the common thinking anyway. How much I have no idea.
 
It's possible it can but no one tested it long enough. 🤷‍♂️ Everything is just an opinion really. 99% of everything is all opinion here LOL.
I think that there are enough reports of cleaning on HPL to elevate it beyond opinion! I think it was @OVERKILL or @wwillson who had chunks of hard carbon in the filter from running HPL, presumably from the piston rings. This was before VRP.
 
There is a guy on YT that (claims to have) put Royal Purple HPS (one that has POE) and it removed varnish in his BMW (guess the Euro oil wasn't cutting it). So I'm going to say that the oils using a decent amount for solvency - HPL, SS, Torco and RL could likely clean. That's the common thinking anyway. How much I have no idea.
Not presuming to correct you but I think that part should be in there.
 
Currently running 0W20 VRP in my '21 Audi SQ5 Sportback after having steady diet of 5k-mi OCIs of Ravenol 0W20 & most recently 0W30. Mileage is 23,7xx miles.

The VRP oil has been in the crankcase for 1k miles of the planned 5k-mi OCI.
 
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0W-20 is an interesting choice in a turbocharged Audi...
Trying to follow the manufacturer recommended spec, but ultimately this SQ5 Sportback see alot of short mileage runs during the week - both the wife and I are 100% WFH, and so it's used primarily as an errand runner/grocery getter, (i.e., multiple warm-up/cool-downs and engine starts).

I'm in the camp that starting needs the easiest to pump oil viscosity, so a 0W20 over the 5W20 or 5W30 VRP choices (puts me in the "thin camp"? LOL). The oil sump temperatures (it has an oil temp gage in the Virtual Cockpit) rarely, if ever, goes over 216/218 deg F, so it's staying well-within the operating temp range. Yeah, you could argue the turbo oil is getting localized much hotter, but the EA389 engine has an "after-run" coolant pump, which circulates the coolant after shut-down, and I'll typically stay off the boost before I return home, to minimize a hot-soak opportunity.
 
Check out You Tube "I do cars" where Eric tears down an Audi engine. I think this is a very telling video that points to why VRP is so unique. The internals on the engine he tore down all looked pretty clean throughout and the bearings showed virtually no wear. It looked like this engine had regular oil services (likely using C3 504/507 Euro oil?) however the problem with this engine resided solely in the oil control ring area. They were all caked up with carbon deposits. This seems to be a recurring theme among many manufacturers these days, as they get higher mileage, they start to burn oil, despite having a good maintenance history. Conventional logic was rings would only get stuck / caked with carbon build-up on poorly maintained engines but this video suggests something quite different is going on in ring land. Which raises the question, if most of todays synthetic oils do an excellent job of keeping internals in great shape everywhere except the rings, what is going on in this one specific area? So far only Valvoline R&P is saying they can reverse and control deposits in the ring area where others seem to fail. I would love to see a controlled test on other oils (pick your favorite) that proves they won't cake up oil control rings as miles accumulate.
 
I'm in the camp that starting needs the easiest to pump oil viscosity, so a 0W20 over the 5W20 or 5W30 VRP choices (puts me in the "thin camp"? LOL). The oil sump temperatures (it has an oil temp gage in the Virtual Cockpit) rarely, if ever, goes over 216/218 deg F, so it's staying well-within the operating temp range. Yeah, you could argue the turbo oil is getting localized much hotter, but the EA389 engine has an "after-run" coolant pump, which circulates the coolant after shut-down, and I'll typically stay off the boost before I return home, to minimize a hot-soak opportunity.
Just remember that no oil with a 0W rating is guaranteed to be thinner than one with a 5W rating unless the temperature is below -30 or so. Above that the 0W rated oil may be thicker or thinner.
 
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