Would you consider Valvoline Restore and Protect in your Euro car?

[f355spider]

If you were to run a 6k mile oci with R&P, would you want to change the filter at 3k miles? If I recall correctly, in the Lake Speed Youtube video, the Valvoline engineers said something to the effect that the reason for the 3k mile oci for R&P, is due to the oil filter being pretty well spent at that point.

According to the Valvoline website, more frequent oil filter changes are not required:
"Valvoline’s Active Clean technology chemically dissolves deposits into microscopic pieces, which are then suspended in the motor oil, eventually leaving the engine during the next oil change. There is no impact to the performance or longevity of the oil filter."

 

[BHopkins]

According to the Valvoline website, more frequent oil filter changes are not required:
"Valvoline’s Active Clean technology chemically dissolves deposits into microscopic pieces, which are then suspended in the motor oil, eventually leaving the engine during the next oil change. There is no impact to the performance or longevity of the oil filter."

Interesting. From my recollection, that directly conflicts with what the Valvoline engineers told The Motor Oil Geek, when he did a video on R&P at the Valvoline development facility.

 

[JohnnyG]

For those of you with Euro oil spec'd cars, would you consider using R&P either temporarily or permanently? By temporarily, I mean for 1-4 oil changes (Valvoline says for best results to use for 4 consecutive oil changes), then switch back to your usual Euro oil.

Yes! If I had an issue with oil consumption, and IF it was MB 229.5 or 229.6 approved.

 

[urman]

Valvoline Restore & Protect Premium Full Synthetic 5W-30 - BMW F11 M550d N57D30C - 5.321 km​

https://oil-club.de/index.php?threa...tic-5w-30-bmw-f11-m/&postID=435611#post435611

 

[KnappAttak]

Valvoline Restore & Protect Premium Full Synthetic 5W-30 - BMW F11 M550d N57D30C - 5.321 km​

View attachment 291100
https://oil-club.de/index.php?threa...tic-5w-30-bmw-f11-m/&postID=435611#post435611

Surprised you are using it in a diesel engine.

 

[KnappAttak]

I just put my third change of VR&P 5w30 into our supercharged 2018 Audi Q7 3.0t after doing a Berrymans B12 Piston soak and BG EPR flush 9000 miles ago. It went from using a quart in 400 miles to using no oil in 5000 mile changes. I'm certain the Berrymans B12 did the heavy lift on the oil control rings and the VR&P is doing the final polishing and cleaning of the oil control rings and piston oil control ring lands. I'll be using the 5w30 forever unless Valvoline decides to bring a 40 weight, Euro spec or equivalent. I could care less about approvals as the Euro spec and Castrol Euro 5-40 dealer changes is what cause the control rings to coke up and stick in the ring lands in the first place. I'll stick to 5-6000 mile intervals with it moving forward. The wear metals at 6000 miles look on par with the expensive boutique Euro oils. If the rings don't stick again, I'll know its doing exactly what it's supposed to do. These Q7's all seem to start gobbling oil at 50-75k miles, ours had 84k miles on it when I did the piston soak.

I'm going to start using it in our older 2013 Audi A6 that is not even using a drop of oil on Mobil1 Euro 0-40 oil doing 10,000 mile changes. It is a older 3.0t that is known to be a good engine and not have low tension oil control rings or oil consumption problems. I'm hoping it sees the same fuel mileage gains and engine smoothness as our newer Q7 did. I don't like what I see in the new formulation of Mobile1 Euro 0-40 when they went away from all the esters in it. Seems to show much higher wear metals, where the old formulation was extremely good on wear metals and internal engine cleanliness.

I'm also using it in my 2014 Chevy 5.3 truck that is known for lifter issues and sticking oil control rings with cylinder deactivation. It picked up fuel mileage and the engine also runs smoother using it. Don't have much for miles on it yet as it doesn't get run very often.

I'm really impressed with the VR&P so far in every thing I've put it in. I'll be using it in my Daughters CRV soon too.

 

[OilUzer]

@KnappAttak

Can you please elaborate?

Castrol has bunch of tough Euro approvals like M1 FS. What have you read or heard or what are the claims? I vaguely recall some other posts about this subject. I have also collected a few Castrol Euro on sale and not that I am concerned but just curious.

... I could care less about approvals as the Euro spec and Castrol Euro 5-40 dealer changes is what cause the control rings to coke up and stick in the ring lands in the first place.

 

[EllieMae94]

Interesting. From my recollection, that directly conflicts with what the Valvoline engineers told The Motor Oil Geek, when he did a video on R&P at the Valvoline development facility.

You might want to rewatch that episode. They said exactly what the website states, no need to change the oil filter sooner as the oil is designed to not clog the filter.

I think what you are referring to is Valvoline Premium Blue Restore oil which is much more aggressive and can clog the filter early. This was also discussed in the same video.

 

[KnappAttak]

@KnappAttak

Can you please elaborate?

Castrol has bunch of tough Euro approvals like M1 FS. What have you read or heard or what are the claims? I vaguely recall some other posts about this subject. I have also collected a few Castrol Euro on sale and not that I am concerned but just curious.

The Audi dealer did the oil changes on our Q7 before we purchased it at their 10,000 mile intervals, on time every time, even confirmed via an excellent CarFax reporting. We purchased it at 84,000 miles. They had just done another oil change service on it before we purchased it. we drove it 400 miles and it gobbled a quart of oil.

I asked the dealer what they used for their oil in their service department and they told me they use the Audi recommended Castrol Euro in a 5w40 flavor. Thats why I said I could care less about Euro specs, because this is the oil that stuck the oil control rings in the first place and coked them up in the pistons. So myself, I have no desire to use Castrol. I've used Mobil1 0-40 Euro in the past with great success in the Audis, but the CREC engine is know for its low tension oil control rings, but the fact remains it's the Castrol Euro that couldn't keep the rings and pistons clean enough. So really what good is the Euro spec right.

Exactly why I'm using the VR&P now, cause I don't care about using the Euro spec oil that did the carbon deposit damage to the Q7 in the first place.

 

[tired]

VRP 0W-16 and 10W-30 are coming out.
Also the VRP Transmission Fluid is on its way out.
Just a matter of time until the Euro Formulations are released.

VRP with MB 229.5 or VW 504 is a checkmate right there.

I hope they release a CVT fluid. Wonder if they'll just run the table and do gear oils too.

Do you have a link for reference on the VRP transmission fluid?

Also wonder why they're wasting their time on a 10W-30. Doesn't really seem to add much. Maybe they can make it with cheaper base oils and save some money.

 

[RBT]

For those of you with Euro oil spec'd cars, would you consider using R&P either temporarily or permanently? By temporarily, I mean for 1-4 oil changes (Valvoline says for best results to use for 4 consecutive oil changes), then switch back to your usual Euro oil.

No. Besides not meeting specs for a Euro car, in my experience if an engine has an excessive oil consumption issue, it is rare for it to be resolvable with a cleaner of any sort.

Two anecdotal data points: wife had a Honda van with VCM when the kids were young. Serviced on time etc. Developed the oil control ring issue that lit the dash up light a Christmas tree with various idiot lights. Since it was not a compression issue, and I was not thrilled with the dealership repairing the factory engine (full ring job at the dealer level is risky relative to a fresh factory reman, but Honda doesn’t do that), I asked about a top end cleaner like the GM product. Was told Honda would do that if it were effective because it was obviously cheaper, but generally it has a high instance of not working. Like most car companies, the bean counters would demand the cheaper fix first if it could work. Subaru did this with my mom’s Subaru wagon in the late 90s, early 2000s. Had a HG leak and they insisted on a stop leak product of sorts first before doing a proper HG.

Second point: brother in law had beautiful Q7 but it had the low tension oil control rings and very high consumption. Bought second hand from Audi dealer. They tried an oil treatment of some sort (I don’t have all the details) a few times, and then the motor just seized while on a trip with my nephew. Audi was decent and discounted him into another Audi but again unless the dealership techs are idiots - highly unlikely - it is just the nature of things that if you have disassembled motors you understand that these products are more about marketing then anything else.

If your car has moderate consumption that is within spec, I would use an excellent quality synthetic at a more frequent interval if concerned about internal varnish etc. and leave it at that. But if oil consumption is within spec, unless the spec is ridiculous, I have gotten to the point where the “leave well enough alone” phrase makes more sense to me then it did when I was younger. And if it still bothered me, I would dump the car due to loss of confidence.

For those of you with high consumption, this is a case where I would be happy to hear I am wrong because no one wants to deal with the cost or expense of major engine work or having to buy a new or newer vehicle unexpectedly. So good luck with the VRP, with all seriousness.

 

[Patman]

Also wonder why they're wasting their time on a 10W-30. Doesn't really seem to add much. Maybe they can make it with cheaper base oils and save some money.

I agree that adding a 10w-30 really isn’t necessary from a technical standpoint because 5w-30 can do the job, but it’s more of a marketing strategy since there are still a lot of people out there who want to run 10w-30 over 5w-30, not knowing that the 10w-30 is easier to make at a lower quality level

 

[tired]

No. Besides not meeting specs for a Euro car, in my experience if an engine has an excessive oil consumption issue, it is rare for it to be resolvable with a cleaner of any sort.

Two anecdotal data points: wife had a Honda van with VCM when the kids were young. Serviced on time etc. Developed the oil control ring issue that lit the dash up light a Christmas tree with various idiot lights. Since it was not a compression issue, and I was not thrilled with the dealership repairing the factory engine (full ring job at the dealer level is risky relative to a fresh factory reman, but Honda doesn’t do that), I asked about a top end cleaner like the GM product. Was told Honda would do that if it were effective because it was obviously cheaper, but generally it has a high instance of not working. Like most car companies, the bean counters would demand the cheaper fix first if it could work. Subaru did this with my mom’s Subaru wagon in the late 90s, early 2000s. Had a HG leak and they insisted on a stop leak product of sorts first before doing a proper HG.

Second point: brother in law had beautiful Q7 but it had the low tension oil control rings and very high consumption. Bought second hand from Audi dealer. They tried an oil treatment of some sort (I don’t have all the details) a few times, and then the motor just seized while on a trip with my nephew. Audi was decent and discounted him into another Audi but again unless the dealership techs are idiots - highly unlikely - it is just the nature of things that if you have disassembled motors you understand that these products are more about marketing then anything else.

If your car has moderate consumption that is within spec, I would use an excellent quality synthetic at a more frequent interval if concerned about internal varnish etc. and leave it at that. But if oil consumption is within spec, unless the spec is ridiculous, I have gotten to the point where the “leave well enough alone” phrase makes more sense to me then it did when I was younger. And if it still bothered me, I would dump the car due to loss of confidence.

For those of you with high consumption, this is a case where I would be happy to hear I am wrong because no one wants to deal with the cost or expense of major engine work or having to buy a new or newer vehicle unexpectedly. So good luck with the VRP, with all seriousness.

There has never been a product like VRP before. The forum is full of stories of people resolving major oil burning issues. Just read one on a Q7 that resolved a quart per 400 mile oil consumption habit. But good luck with running “high quality synthetics at a more frequent interval.”

 

[RBT]

There has never been a product like VRP before. The forum is full of stories of people resolving major oil burning issues. Just read one on a Q7 that resolved a quart per 400 mile oil consumption habit. But good luck with running “high quality synthetics at a more frequent interval.”

[Sponsored by Saudi Aramco]

Joking around aside, good luck with it. Seriously no snark. But bear in mind that Oil control rings on the impacted pistons on my wife’s van had to be removed with a chisel and that is not unusual in a situation where they are frozen. Again best of luck with it.

 

[KEVINK0000]

Yes absolutely would use in a Euro engine. Great candidates in my opinion. Lots of long OCI service while under warranty. Too much stock put in the awesomeness of Euro approvals. Better, yes, in certain specific parameters. Orders of magnitude better? No. Use without fear in most European applications.

 

[Sandstorm]

VRP with MB 229.5 or VW 504 is a checkmate right there.

I hope they release a CVT fluid. Wonder if they'll just run the table and do gear oils too.

Do you have a link for reference on the VRP transmission fluid?

Also wonder why they're wasting their time on a 10W-30. Doesn't really seem to add much. Maybe they can make it with cheaper base oils and save some money.

 

[tired]

[Sponsored by Saudi Aramco]

Joking around aside, good luck with it. Seriously no snark. But bear in mind that Oil control rings on the impacted pistons on my wife’s van had to be removed with a chisel and that is not unusual in a situation where they are frozen. Again best of luck with it.

I don’t have any oil burning issues. But lots of varnish, and a questionable oil change history before I bought it, so I’m just cleaning it up. Already seen significant improvement.

 

[JohnnyG]

VRP with MB 229.5 or VW 504 is a checkmate right there.

I hope they release a CVT fluid. Wonder if they'll just run the table and do gear oils too.

Do you have a link for reference on the VRP transmission fluid?

Also wonder why they're wasting their time on a 10W-30. Doesn't really seem to add much. Maybe they can make it with cheaper base oils and save some money.

I think a 10W-30 COULD meet MB 229.6 if they chose to get that cert.

 

[trd1zz]

Yes absolutely would use in a Euro engine. Great candidates in my opinion. Lots of long OCI service while under warranty. Too much stock put in the awesomeness of Euro approvals. Better, yes, in certain specific parameters. Orders of magnitude better? No. Use without fear in most European applications.

I mean if you are burning up to a quart every 400 miles, yeah, why wouldn't you try it?

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I think a 10W-30 COULD meet MB 229.6 if they chose to get that cert.

Any 30 grade would meet the min HTHS required of 229.6.

From a HTHS perspective R&P would meet the min HTHS of the overwhelming majority of new euro cars.