Wix updates Gen V oil filter specs - 22 PSI bypass

[4WD]

Right …
and perhaps the terms “high pressure” was ONLY used to relate to new clearance specs … but it’s not much pressure

Guess 3 BPV threads is driving me nuts … I’m going to spin on a PF63E even if it’s a short run …

I’d forecast about 4500 miles left on the OLM … seems like a safe test and GM can’t sue me for using their filter …

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
....They can only put out so much flow as a function of their swept physical volume and engine RPM....

I'm thinking there is a start-up time pressure wave, which blasts the oil filter before the back-pressure can build up on the clean side of the oil filter. Cold starts are doing this more. Thick oil, hitting the media, will spike pressure, and the new pressure feedback control scheme has those pumps running hard until full back-pressure develops. ... GM is concerned about bypass events during this time, so I guess we should too. The engineers could be wrong I suppose. They do instrument and observe far more than we do though. Believing them.

Basically, "differential pressure" across the filter media is mostly discussed as a steady state value for fully developed flow.
This is really referring to a spikey, transient event that keeps popping bypass valves.
Although its also true that a very cold engine run at high-ish RPM is experiencing a fairly high differential pressure which might pop the bypass too.

What's bizarre is how many years it took them to issue that memo. Memo came out less than 1 year ago, and it applies to engines built 7 years ago.... Late!!!


Could be there is some pressure spiking going on, especially in very cold weather start-ups. If the oil galleries are always full of oil, then that pressure spike shouldn't be bad. If the gallery was bone dry, then the flow surge, pressure spike could be worse. I can't see any flow surge and resulting pressure spike lasting more than a couple of seconds if the galleries are kept full with a properly working ADBV.

If GM is worried about the filter's bypass valve opening for a couple of seconds during a super cold weather start-up then I'd say they are being a bit paranoid. Maybe back specifying the 22 PSI filters back 7 model years is more proof of the paranoia?

On a bone cold start-up, there will be some engine RPM "flare up" to around 1200~1500 RPM, but as I've said before I can't see the oil flow volume being anything huge at those RPM. Super cold thick oil definitely accentuates the delta-p across the oil filter.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: 4WD
Guess 3 BPV threads is driving me nuts …


It does seem to be a hot topic right now.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Fram has the HP18 and HP19 oil filters for these applications. Fram Racing oil filters have good efficiency, very robust, silicone ADBV, expensive at $20 each though.

Sized right in the middle of the WL10290 (PF64, short) and the WL10255 (PF63E, very long) is the Wix 57502 http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exactmatch.aspx?PartNo=57502 and all have the required 22 psi bypass threshold. All three only differ in their lengths. You can use any of them IF your engine has room for the lengths.

NAPA Gold equivalents also exist for them. Part numbers 100290, 100255, and 7502.

Notice if your GM Owner's Manual says you need a UPF64R, that one has a high 35 psi bypass, so technically you can't use any of the Wix's or NAPA oil filters in that case.


Don't forget about the Wix 51372, which is only about 0.4" longer than the PF64 and also has the 22 psi bypass. The NAPA Gold equivalent is the 1372.

I know I said in the past I didn't want to run the oversize filter on my Corvette, but for just one interval I think I might go with the 1372, until the proper size (100290) hits the stores.


Be careful using the 51372. Its too wide. My PF64 (GM 1.5L turbo '18 Equinox) application won't quite fit the extra 0.7" diameter. Maybe yours will.
I was only considering the same-diameter, extra height options. That one is good if you've got the room for it.

 

[webfors]

I've landed on using the Fram XG10575. It has the exact specs as the 10060, just slightly longer.

What good is a bypass spec if the media can't handle it?

No more paper media filters for me. I'll use the free PF64 the dealer puts on for a short run while I run cleaners through it, then swap it out for a filter that I have a very high level of confidence in. I keep my warranty, and I minimize the risk of cheaply made paper filters.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: webfors
I've landed on using the Fram XG10575. It has the exact specs as the 10060, just slightly longer.

What good is a bypass spec if the media can't handle it?

No more paper media filters for me. I'll use the free PF64 the dealer puts on for a short run while I run cleaners through it, then swap it out for a filter that I have a very high level of confidence in. I keep my warranty, and I minimize the risk of cheaply made paper filters.


Just put on a new Champ Supertech Ecore with paper media, on a GM Malibu. Let me know when the pics come in, showing blowouts.

Just put on a new $1.76 China Premium Guard - with paper media, on my Chevy Colorado. I'll wait to see pics on those blowouts also.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: webfors
I've landed on using the Fram XG10575. It has the exact specs as the 10060, just slightly longer.


You're not concerned about the bypass valve set to only 9-15 psi?

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: webfors
I've landed on using the Fram XG10575. It has the exact specs as the 10060, just slightly longer.


You're not concerned about the bypass valve set to only 9-15 psi?


I've already experienced more than a lifetime of bypass events in the last 5k mile run with a torn PF64. I'm done with paper filters.

When Fram gets around to releasing a 22psi Ultra, I'll use that.

The liability of paper filters, and the lack of QA from multiple manufacturers on these paper filters, trumps a bypass spec.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: webfors
I've landed on using the Fram XG10575. It has the exact specs as the 10060, just slightly longer.

What good is a bypass spec if the media can't handle it?

No more paper media filters for me. I'll use the free PF64 the dealer puts on for a short run while I run cleaners through it, then swap it out for a filter that I have a very high level of confidence in. I keep my warranty, and I minimize the risk of cheaply made paper filters.


Just put on a new Champ Supertech Ecore with paper media, on a GM Malibu. Let me know when the pics come in, showing blowouts.

Just put on a new $1.76 China Premium Guard - with paper media, on my Chevy Colorado. I'll wait to see pics on those blowouts also.


Keep cutting and posting. You'll find one eventually.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: webfors
I've landed on using the Fram XG10575. It has the exact specs as the 10060, just slightly longer.


You're not concerned about the bypass valve set to only 9-15 psi?


I've already experienced more than a lifetime of bypass events in the last 5k mile run with a torn PF64. I'm done with paper filters.

When Fram gets around to releasing a 22psi Ultra, I'll use that.


Just don't hammer the throttle until the oil warms up and you'll be fine. A good practice on any vehicle.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Just don't hammer the throttle until the oil warms up and you'll be fine. A good practice on any vehicle.

Maybe Purolator could start qualifying their filters as good for at idle only, while we're at it.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just don't hammer the throttle until the oil warms up and you'll be fine. A good practice on any vehicle.


I've always driven my cars gently until the oil warms up. On my Corvette the redline on the tach actually starts out at only 3500 when the engine is cold (the engine will rev past it, it's just showing the "recommended redline") As the engine warms up, the graphic on the tach changes and the redline goes up incrementally. I believe it shows the normal 6500rpm redline once the oil hits 150 or 160.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies


Be careful using the 51372. Its too wide. My PF64 (GM 1.5L turbo '18 Equinox) application won't quite fit the extra 0.7" diameter. Maybe yours will.
I was only considering the same-diameter, extra height options. That one is good if you've got the room for it.


That's a bummer, the filter on the Corvette is in a bit of a tight spot nestled beside the oil pan, so I don't want to take a chance with that fatter filter. Even though I said I wasn't going to go with the longest one, it looks like I might just go that route and use the Gold 7502. Just for one interval though, until I can find the 100290.

This isn't my car, but this is what my oil pan/filter area looks like:

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies


Be careful using the 51372. Its too wide. My PF64 (GM 1.5L turbo '18 Equinox) application won't quite fit the extra 0.7" diameter. Maybe yours will.
I was only considering the same-diameter, extra height options. That one is good if you've got the room for it.


That's a bummer, the filter on the Corvette is in a bit of a tight spot nestled beside the oil pan, so I don't want to take a chance with that fatter filter. Even though I said I wasn't going to go with the longest one, it looks like I might just go that route and use the Gold 7502. Just for one interval though, until I can find the 100290.

This isn't my car, but this is what my oil pan/filter area looks like:





That is a tight spot! There's no room for longer filters.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just don't hammer the throttle until the oil warms up and you'll be fine. A good practice on any vehicle.


I've always driven my cars gently until the oil warms up. On my Corvette the redline on the tach actually starts out at only 3500 when the engine is cold (the engine will rev past it, it's just showing the "recommended redline") As the engine warms up, the graphic on the tach changes and the redline goes up incrementally. I believe it shows the normal 6500rpm redline once the oil hits 150 or 160.

After the coolant reaches operating temperature, how long does it take the sump to catch up?

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: webfors



That is a tight spot! There's no room for longer filters.


I know, the more I think about it now, the more I don't want to run anything longer than stock on this car. So now I need to figure out what filter to run on my next interval. I hope the new NAPA Gold 100290 is available by then, but if not, do I really want to run another PF64? I'm not exactly feeling confident about their quality lately

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: WellOiled
Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Just don't hammer the throttle until the oil warms up and you'll be fine. A good practice on any vehicle.


I've always driven my cars gently until the oil warms up. On my Corvette the redline on the tach actually starts out at only 3500 when the engine is cold (the engine will rev past it, it's just showing the "recommended redline") As the engine warms up, the graphic on the tach changes and the redline goes up incrementally. I believe it shows the normal 6500rpm redline once the oil hits 150 or 160.

After the coolant reaches operating temperature, how long does it take the sump to catch up?


Not long at all actually. A week or two ago I drove it to work on a 26 degree morning and it took 4 miles for the coolant to reach 89C (192F) and just one more mile for the oil to catch up.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: webfors



That is a tight spot! There's no room for longer filters.


I know, the more I think about it now, the more I don't want to run anything longer than stock on this car. So now I need to figure out what filter to run on my next interval. I hope the new NAPA Gold 100290 is available by then, but if not, do I really want to run another PF64? I'm not exactly feeling confident about their quality lately

That's easy, XG10060.

I would not run a PF64 on any car, let alone a vette.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: Patman
I know, the more I think about it now, the more I don't want to run anything longer than stock on this car. So now I need to figure out what filter to run on my next interval. I hope the new NAPA Gold 100290 is available by then, but if not, do I really want to run another PF64? I'm not exactly feeling confident about their quality lately

Fram HP18 is the perfect size for a new Vette. 94%@20microns, screen over bypass valve, 22 psi bypass, built strong, silicone ADBV, made to flow too. The fact that it uses the word "Racing" on it doesn't mean it doesnt have all the specs GM wants.

 

[Patman]

The Fram HP18 isn't a filter I've seen anywhere in the places I go (either here in Ontario or in Western NY), and I'm still very leery of using something like that while under warranty as I feel that GM would fight me hard on that one in the rare event of a warranty claim, so let's scratch that one off my list. So until the new NAPA Gold shows up I am now thinking of either the Ultra, the Mobil 1 or the K&N. I really love the solid construction of the Ultra, and I have used them almost exclusively on my Honda and my previous Corvette. But the low 9-15psi bypass still scares me. At least with either the K&N or the M1, they say the bypass is 11-17psi (and depending on who you believe at Champion Labs it's even possible the M1 filter has the correct 22psi setting after all)

If I do change my mind (which I've been known to do!) on the Fram HP18, where would I find one? (somewhere that isn't mail order)