Winchester 63 chambering issue
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
In the next to last picture, are those indentations in the chamber directly opposite the extractor groove?
Agree the firing pin ding is a problem.
Also agree try some round nose instead of truncated cone.
Not had good luck with Winchester or Remington bulk .22... Had some Remington that the bullet was so loose it was a problem feeding in a bolt action.
Still looks dirty.
Agree the firing pin ding is a problem.
Also agree try some round nose instead of truncated cone.
Not had good luck with Winchester or Remington bulk .22... Had some Remington that the bullet was so loose it was a problem feeding in a bolt action.
Still looks dirty.
That chamber looks like it's been peened from dry firing. Probably where your issue resides.
JHZR2
Staff member
Interesting.
We had like 30 minutes at the range before they closed, after I picked the rifle up from my FFL, so barely enough time to do a cursory check, clean and lube the operating parts, run a bore snake a few times, and try to shoot it.
I have it apart, have a swaying tool in order, and will try some of my CCI Clean poly coated ammo.
JHZR2
Staff member
There’s a “roughness” at the extractor groove, and a firing pin indent. No idea when this happened, this rifle has probably been sitting in a closet for 45 years and not shot in 50…
It is still dirty. I cleaned some of it to try to get a few shots off, now it’s being detailed.
I agree. Hoping that the swaging tool I got can fix that… with some different ammo.
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JHZR2
Staff member
I got the swaging tool in the mail. Lubed it up and worked it around the burr areas.
Less was more, I worked it a bit then tried to put a round in by hand. It went pretty easy.
I want to limit how much I work off with the swage tool.
You can see the peening is still there. So the removal is “just enough” for now. Will try to chamber some actual rounds next, but I’d rather mess with it at the range.
So I’ll give it a good cleaning and hope for the best….
Less was more, I worked it a bit then tried to put a round in by hand. It went pretty easy.
I want to limit how much I work off with the swage tool.
You can see the peening is still there. So the removal is “just enough” for now. Will try to chamber some actual rounds next, but I’d rather mess with it at the range.
So I’ll give it a good cleaning and hope for the best….
JHZR2
Staff member
It is much cleaner, and I can place rounds in far easier.
I’m leaving it like this:
Cleaned it extensively after finishing the swaging and testing round chambering with dummy snap cap type rounds.
The last few inches of the barrel shows some pitting.
As long as it is reasonably accurate at 25yd and doesn’t keyhole, I’m not going to worry much, it’s just for my kids to have fun shooting their great grandfather’s and grandfather’s rifle.
I’m leaving it like this:
Cleaned it extensively after finishing the swaging and testing round chambering with dummy snap cap type rounds.
The last few inches of the barrel shows some pitting.
As long as it is reasonably accurate at 25yd and doesn’t keyhole, I’m not going to worry much, it’s just for my kids to have fun shooting their great grandfather’s and grandfather’s rifle.
That's cool! He would like that.
JHZR2
Staff member
For sure. My FIL is super excited to take my oldest shooting!
JHZR2
Staff member
I had some issues with this rifle again, due to the inability to eject.
The ejector looks great. But each reload, we would get a few shots off, then this:
And this was after I locked open the action. Before this, there was another casing perpendicular to the breech, trapped against the action.
It’s like the extractor can’t get a good enough grip on the rim to pull it out. So then after a few rounds things just stay in place and then it all jams up. Thing is, sometimes we can shoot a magazine feed of 10 bullets without issue, but usually it only goes about 3-4 rounds fired off.
Any ideas? The rifle is clean, slides well, everything is lubricated, etc.
The ejector looks great. But each reload, we would get a few shots off, then this:
And this was after I locked open the action. Before this, there was another casing perpendicular to the breech, trapped against the action.
It’s like the extractor can’t get a good enough grip on the rim to pull it out. So then after a few rounds things just stay in place and then it all jams up. Thing is, sometimes we can shoot a magazine feed of 10 bullets without issue, but usually it only goes about 3-4 rounds fired off.
Any ideas? The rifle is clean, slides well, everything is lubricated, etc.
How does the inside of the chamber look? Sometimes when I have problems with rimfire ejection, I take a piece of bronze wool and remove any carbon build up in the chamber, then it ejects fine. It takes very little build up to cause ejection problems.
[edit] I saw the pictures of the chamber above. Yeah, it's a little rough so I would expect some issues with ejection.
[edit] I saw the pictures of the chamber above. Yeah, it's a little rough so I would expect some issues with ejection.
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JHZR2
Staff member
It’s all clean as far as I can tell. I cleaned everything thoroughly with a brass brush.
I know what you mean because it happens in the cylinder of a revolver as things get fouled.
I don't know if you've serviced the ejector but that's my guess on your root problem. It's just not grabbing and holding the empty with authority. So, possibly the ejector is bent, or the spring is worn, ejector teeth damaged, ejector not seated correctly. If not the ejector, maybe a headspace problem, meaning the chamber is problematic and holding too tightly on the casings, in this instance. Maybe small burrs holding the brass? Might just need to measure and really polish the headspacing.
JHZR2
Staff member
The ejector seems fine; the spring could be weak with age.
I did swage/ream the chamber a bit due to a bit of a bump from ages old dry firing. I erred on the side of not removing too much. Maybe that is the issue.
@JHZR2 , I meant to write extractor, not ejector.
Anyway, Numrich shows a different design for the extractor. I'm not a gunsmith, but you should confirm you have the right extractor. Someone previously might have put the wrong one in it. The picture looks different to me than what you have shown.
That could also be a sign of an incorrect extractor, not correctly mating to the round as it chambers.
If I were you'd I'd focus on the extractor and ensure it's the correct design. If you suspect it's incorrect, it's a $35 part. While you're ordering it, I'd go ahead and order new springs, and any other cheap wear parts you think it might need. The springs are only a few bucks. A firing pin is $39 but handy to have on a .22 since they can break.
JHZR2
Staff member
Yeah, me too. Too late and doing work while posting…@JHZR2 , I meant to write extractor, not ejector.
Anyway, Numrich shows a different design for the extractor. I'm not a gunsmith, but you should confirm you have the right extractor. Someone previously might have put the wrong one in it. The picture looks different to me than what you have shown.
That one does look slightly different, perhaps gets more purchase on the rim.
I’m going to try to swage the barrel a bit more first. See where it goes from there.
Then I’ll replace a bunch of springs and items. I don’t want to the parts at it if I can avoid it. The rifle seems original, and despite its issues, is quite accurate it seems.
Okay but what I casually see, is the wrong extractor in that particular gun. I'm not familiar with that gun but from a cursory look, it has the wrong extractor based on the replacement part.
You've identified that it chambers oddly (suggesting a ejector problem), and that it fails to extract regularly. The main culprit is the extractor/ejector. It appears from the picture from Numrichs that it is wrong, which would explain the problems.
It's worth comparing it to other Model 63s to see. It's possible that there was a re-design improvement at some point, or some bubba put in the wrong extractor doing a repair, etc. It's about a $40 fix. Definitely worth investigating/fixing with the correct part. Accuracy isn't the issue, it's reliability which is the key issue.
@JHZR2
I think the chamber despite the swaging, is still too rough. Considering that the barrel is also pitted and its never going to be a real shooter. You just want it to chamber shoot reliably. Normally i'd not suggest this in a modern firearm. But i think this might be what you need.
A flex-hone for rifle barrels.
I would be careful and not make many passes. Maybe one or 2. Its 400 grit. Some of their rifle hones are 800 grit. But the one for .22 is 400 grit.
I think you would have to measure chamber depth and mark the shaft with tape or paint, so you don't go to deep near the rifling. I'd stay clear of the barrel twist.
Maybe make 1 or 2 passes, snake the barrel clean, lube and try some shots. Try to get the barrel hot, and if needed run the hone in the hot barrel if it only hangs up hot.
I think the chamber despite the swaging, is still too rough. Considering that the barrel is also pitted and its never going to be a real shooter. You just want it to chamber shoot reliably. Normally i'd not suggest this in a modern firearm. But i think this might be what you need.
A flex-hone for rifle barrels.
I would be careful and not make many passes. Maybe one or 2. Its 400 grit. Some of their rifle hones are 800 grit. But the one for .22 is 400 grit.
I think you would have to measure chamber depth and mark the shaft with tape or paint, so you don't go to deep near the rifling. I'd stay clear of the barrel twist.
Maybe make 1 or 2 passes, snake the barrel clean, lube and try some shots. Try to get the barrel hot, and if needed run the hone in the hot barrel if it only hangs up hot.
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