Will MC5000 make 10K OCI?

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Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
Hey I agree why is a change around 5 or 6 difficult to do????
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Because I don't want to change the oil every 5-6 weeks, especially when the Honda Owners Manual says to go 10K.



OK, after reading all the comments I have decided on the following:

I am going to change oil and filter in the next few weeks with my usual WIX and I am going to go with Pennzoil Ultra 5w20. Then I will dump it at around 7-8K as a flush. Then I will perform another OCI using a new filter and another dose of Pennzoil Ultra 5w20 and run it all winter for 15-18k. I will then pull a sample and send to Blackstone for UOA with TBN and report back. I would try Mobil 1 Extended Performance if I could find 5w20 in big jugs but I can't around here and I am not going to pay $7-8 for individual quarts. If PU/WIX will easily give me a 15K OCI I will be happy to have to only change oil/filter 3x a year.

P.s. life was so much easier before I found BITOG!
 
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bryceban, we have the same car, so take it from me. My Civic does the same thing, it burns oil. I'm using MC5W20 Blend and every two weeks I have to add a little to top the level. I use the highway everyday. My suggestion is, switch to MC5W20 Blend, add oil whenever you need to and go to 10K OCI with filter change.
 
Originally Posted By: shrooms
bryceban, we have the same car, so take it from me. My Civic does the same thing, it burns oil. I'm using MC5W20 Blend and every two weeks I have to add a little to top the level. I use the highway everyday. My suggestion is, switch to MC5W20 Blend, add oil whenever you need to and go to 10K OCI with filter change.



You know, I had an 02 Civic prior to this one....bought it with 76,000 had it until 160,000 before I totaled it and it never used a drop doing 8K OCI. Then I bought this one a year ago with 125,000, one owner car, highway commuter, and he used Castrol GTX 10w30 for what ever reason. Never noticed it burning much until the other night. If it continues with the oil consumption I will go with MC 5w20 blend or MC5K, etc. Good cheap, simple, reliable cars that can do 35-40 mpg all day every day. I like em.
 
Oh I love this report go for it 10,000 miles piece of cake I do it all the time.... great advice just teriffic...
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how about some stock market insights????
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
otoh, early change is maybe not a bad idea...

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The current labor cost per hour in NY is $105 .You should change your filter every other oci, sure you do that, remember your going to pay $90.00 just for them to tell you why the cel is on. And all of this without dinner and a movie.W.C. Fields says you have a moral obligation to take money from a sucker..
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Originally Posted By: rclint
I run my filters twice when doing conventional oil changes on my 02 accord with never having a problem.. All of those here showing how cost is so low, why on earth would anyone do it, or all the dirty oil left in... Honda recommends in the owners manual changing the filter every other oil change.

I would trust my owners manual far more than the comments here about the oil filter, and also I would trust the owners manual on OCI length, and oil to use.. if you detour from that this is a great place to thrash out answers, or all the wrongs etc.. but the basis of your OCI should be the owners manual !!

Again I have been running filters for two consecutive OCI's "leaving all that dirty oil in the motor when doing so" I have also run many many runs of conventional to 10k and over by accident with still a clean engine and zero problems... I like you have a long commute, so with the engines being easy on oil, the long commute being a good basis for a longer OCI I wouldn't worry about anything... by the way just what is the filter filtering out of the oil I have to ask which makes it so imperative to the engine at short change intervals ?
 
10W-30 used by the previous owner is the clue IMO. When you switch to a lower viscosity the consumption is to be expected. You can safely use MC5K 5W30 for 10K miles in it. Mobil 1 Extended Performance advice is a good one, but in 5W-20 they do not come in jugs, so it is not economical for our project objective. MC5K has a superior addpack. You can also look into Shevron dino - it is supreme.
 
Most of these people are throwing their money away in the name of a hobby. You can run conventional oil 10k, no problemo. I averaged 10k+ oil changes on my Honda Civic with Pennzoil Yellow. Cars have ran for decades using very high oic's, with poorly machined engine internals using garbage oil. Today's car engines and oil are the inverse, but somehow people adhere to low OIC's (*cough* advertising). Justfiy that.
 
Something else to consider is no matter how "perfect" your driving conditions are, there are still combustible by-products that end up in your oil. Therefore, a conventional oil will loose its ability to suspend these contaminants past, say, 7,000 miles. On the other hand, synthetics have a higher level of additives that assist in suspending these by-products and neutralizing the damaging acids. A conventional oil simply cannot achieve a 10,000 mile oil change and still suspend particles properly. It is a chance I would not want to take unless I traded off cars every couple of years(aka buyer beware!).
 
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Something else to consider is no matter how "perfect" your driving conditions are, there are still combustible by-products that end up in your oil. Therefore, a conventional oil will loose its ability to suspend these contaminants past, say, 7,000 miles. On the other hand, synthetics have a higher level of additives that assist in suspending these by-products and neutralizing the damaging acids. A conventional oil simply cannot achieve a 10,000 mile oil change and still suspend particles properly.


Those seem like very broad brush-stroked opinions. Any factual data to support them?
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Originally Posted By: bigdawg74
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
Something else to consider is no matter how "perfect" your driving conditions are, there are still combustible by-products that end up in your oil. Therefore, a conventional oil will loose its ability to suspend these contaminants past, say, 7,000 miles. On the other hand, synthetics have a higher level of additives that assist in suspending these by-products and neutralizing the damaging acids. A conventional oil simply cannot achieve a 10,000 mile oil change and still suspend particles properly.


Those seem like very broad brush-stroked opinions. Any factual data to support them?
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My reasoning is based solely on conclusions that I have drawn from looking at the oil analysis postings here on BITOG. I have noticed that the conventional oil analysis starts with a lower TBN and lower amounts of Boron, Calcium, etc. A synthetic, on the other hand, has a higher TBN than the conventional and higher levels of the detergents, anti-wear additives etc. Once these components are depleted, the oil no longer can lubricate and protect against deposits. Conventionals are great for frequent oil changes, however synthetics contain more "goodies" than the conventionals to handle the added miles. Just my thoughts...
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This website has been so informative for me; I enjoy the wide variety of information that is presented!
 
Did you read any of the PZYB and Valvoline conventional used oil analysis over 10k (in some cases, to 14k+) showing excellent results and TBN numbers showing the ability to go further? Those are out there as well.
 
I give up on this thread, it's a joke after the first post... here we go, Honda puts huge amounts of money into researching the best way to maintain their engine doing so at 10k OCI on conventional with a filter every other oil change, if you don't feel comfortable using a filter every other change then by all means do it every change, but the owners manual clearly states every other change !! now I'm sure the ones posting about how valuable the filter is to your car can come on here showing you just how wrong Honda is, it's a wonder Honda even manufactures a engine with this nonsense..

Conventional is used up at 7000 miles with all the by products of combustion ??? where does this mis information come from, how do Honda engines even make it out of the warranty period...

A few last information bits, using PU to clean up your engine... this can happen after reading BITOG a couple of times a day, there is zero reason to use anything synthetic in your engine unless you want to spend the extra money... You are fine on conventional if you want to use that, and you will be fine at 10k OCI on conventional as well, and if you would like to change the oil filter every time or every other time either will be fine, all stated clearly in the owners manual for your Honda...

A 5w30 or High Mileage oil may not hurt if you would like to try to slow or stop consumption, it's not a fix all but well worth a shot as you are changing oil anyway... Brands here is just like anything else oil, people will preach Mobil 1 to a brick wall on the back side of a outhouse telling the wall how Mobil 1 is what keeps the flow going for years, and years (the wall wondering how this has anything to do with the inside toiletry) serious Mobil 1, Maxlife, and I'm sure many others are good I have good luck with Maxlife I have read many others have had good luck with Mobil 1 5w30 would be the best choice here..
 
Another post down to get the point across about oil filters, if they were so important each car should come with two just in case one filter fails, and to filter all those contaminates out..
 
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