Maybe take the $400 and have them check the other lines to upgrade to the metal version.update #3
I just called Toyota. They denied reimbursement but they did offer 400 dealership credit for future dealer bills. Which I took immediately.
I can forgive my wife about 58%
A video reference for those who don't know about the 2GR V6 oil line
If you have the older rubber unit, or are out of the LSC coverage, I recommend proactive replacement to the OE metal kit
Don't lose a good engine over a minor part
Just get it from the dealer. It’s a quality part with gaskets.Dorman also makes a metal replacement kit if you are OK with Dorman. I know they are hit or miss but price and availability might be better than going to the dealer.
I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40 in it.Now back to the BITOG topic. What oil I should buy??
(1) ST all mileage 5W-30 (10W??) jugs
(2) havoline high mileage blend box 5W30
(3) M1 high mileage 12qt box
Any recommendation for this potentially worn out engine?
Makes sense... so bigger clearance deserves thicker oil.I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40 in it.
I think Mobil 1 0W40 will do a great job cleaning things up, and provide better protection while it is doing the cleaning, especially in your case. On the contrary if you feel the 20 grade oils you mentioned are going to do a better job, go for it. I wouldn't.Makes sense... so bigger clearance deserves thicker oil.
On the contrary, I was thinking, for the 2 or 3 shorter OCIs before I get back to ordinary OCI with thicker oil, maybe I go through some 5W-20? (or even 0W-20) So thinner oil can (1) shoot more oil to the overhead cam area for better washing (2) more chance metal debris to come down to the pan?
Does it make any sense to you guys???
ALL oil is thin when it's hot. A well-functioning oil pump puts out X Flow rate, no matter if the oil is thin or thick. You may observe higher oil pressure with a slightly higher viscosity, but the flow will still be X. Depending upon where you look, you could have the pump "shoot more" in some areas by using a slightly higher viscosity that results in higher pressure. I think you're overthinking it...the engine will survive the previous abuse or not, no matter what you do with viscosity at this point.Makes sense... so bigger clearance deserves thicker oil.
On the contrary, I was thinking, for the 2 or 3 shorter OCIs before I get back to ordinary OCI with thicker oil, maybe I go through some 5W-20? (or even 0W-20) So thinner oil can (1) shoot more oil to the overhead cam area for better washing (2) more chance metal debris to come down to the pan?
Does it make any sense to you guys???
Above certain oil pressure, the relieve valve opens and oil (partially) won't go through. And thicker oil hits the trigger at lower flow rate. Lower viscosity oil always gets pumped more in volume at high RPMsALL oil is thin when it's hot. A well-functioning oil pump puts out X Flow rate, no matter if the oil is thin or thick. You may observe higher oil pressure with a slightly higher viscosity, but the flow will still be X. Depending upon where you look, you could have the pump "shoot more" in some areas by using a slightly higher viscosity that results in higher pressure. I think you're overthinking it...the engine will survive the previous abuse or not, no matter what you do with viscosity at this point.
The PRV in a filter will only bypass filter media … it’s not a relief valve for the whole system … Rate is RPM based if winter rating is appropriate - except modern pumps have stages tied to ECM (demand) …Above certain oil pressure, the relieve valve opens and oil (partially) won't go through the oil filter. And thicker oil hits the trigger at lower flow rate. Lower viscosity oil always gets pumped more in volume at high RPMs
Sorry I mixed up filter valve and pump valve. Filter valve is, as you said, only for bypassing the filter media. But the pump relief, i believe, relieves some oil back to the pan. In that loop, higher visc oil triggers the valve at lower volume flow rate. Or am I misunderstanding it?The PRV in a filter will only bypass filter media … it’s not a relief valve for the whole system … Rate is RPM based if winter rating is appropriate - except modern pumps have stages tied to ECM (demand) …
Anything else is distribution of said flow …
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That’s correct - the graph shows bypassed oil …Sorry I mixed up filter valve and pump valve. Filter valve is, as you said, only for bypassing the filter media. But the pump relief, i believe, relieves some oil back to the pan. In that loop, higher visc oil triggers the valve at loert volume flow rate. Or am I misunderstanding it?
SAE30 is 35% higher in viscousity over SAE20. I don't think the difference is trivialThat’s correct - the graph shows bypassed oil …
A rule of thumb in hydraulics is a 25% viscosity change only yields a 4% increase in residual pressure - so unless far below zero outside - viscosity has but a minor effect … (ID, length, rate = larger impacts)
What 4WD is explaining is that there is not a linear relationship between viscosity and hydraulic (oil) pressure. 35% greater viscosity is going in to yield ~5% more pressure. Whether or not this increase in pressure is a non-trivial factor for the proper running of a particular engine depends on multiple factors.SAE30 is 35% higher in viscousity over SAE20. I don't think the difference is trivial
...and at what RPM do you (or in this case, your wife) run this potentially buggered engine? I think you are straining at gnats (as the old saying goes). 20 or 30 weight at operating temp are nearly the same viscosity...the difference is hard to measure they are so close when at operating temp. One could argue that the increased DENSITY of the thicker oil is important to "wash" the particles off the surfaces. Nah...I'm not going to buy that one just like I don't think a 20 weight is going to give you more washing effect than the 30 weight.Above certain oil pressure, the relieve valve opens and oil (partially) won't go through. And thicker oil hits the trigger at lower flow rate. Lower viscosity oil always gets pumped more in volume at high RPMs