Today, I was doing a routine tire rotation on the ol' 2012 Honda CRV, and was doing the final tightening of the lug nuts. The RF wheel was the last step. Cris-cross sequence on the 5 lug nuts, all tightened nicely but one stud would not bottom down. Tried to back off but the stud was snapped off.
Power tools have never been used on the car since I bought it new, and I'm the only person who did the tire rotations over the years. Always did manual tightening. Granted, I don't have a torque wrench, but I'm 150 lbs and apply this weight on the 9-inch long Honda tire iron, which equals 112 ft-lbs. I use a little grease on the studs, so maybe this amplifies the torque by 15% and makes it 128 ft-lbs. This is over the spec'ed 80 ft-lbs by Honda, but surely it is not enough to snap the stud. We've all read of cases on BITOG where 200 ft-lbs or more were applied and the studs were none the worse for it, right?
Looking at the damaged area, I see near the center some metallic grain that is perpendicular to the circumference of the stud. Any comments, guys? Metallurgy issue?
Power tools have never been used on the car since I bought it new, and I'm the only person who did the tire rotations over the years. Always did manual tightening. Granted, I don't have a torque wrench, but I'm 150 lbs and apply this weight on the 9-inch long Honda tire iron, which equals 112 ft-lbs. I use a little grease on the studs, so maybe this amplifies the torque by 15% and makes it 128 ft-lbs. This is over the spec'ed 80 ft-lbs by Honda, but surely it is not enough to snap the stud. We've all read of cases on BITOG where 200 ft-lbs or more were applied and the studs were none the worse for it, right?
Looking at the damaged area, I see near the center some metallic grain that is perpendicular to the circumference of the stud. Any comments, guys? Metallurgy issue?
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