Which oil for breaking in 2024 F250 7.3?

[ripcord]

It's the phosphorous, that's why the limit is on phosphorous, not zinc.

Right. ZDDP (Zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) contributes to the total phosphorous level but isn't the only phosphorus containing compound in most all additive packs.

Not that you don't understand this, OVERKILL, just adding context and clarity to the discussion.

 

[JavierH19]

Zinc or phosphorus really, is bad for cats once it gets burned. If it was my truck I'd feed it whatever 15w-40 or quaker state euro 5w-40. But you could just use vanilla 5w-30 and it'd be fine if you change it at olm or below.

 

[JavierH19]

.

 

[misterjake]

Zinc or phosphorus really, is bad for cats once it gets burned. If it was my truck I'd feed it whatever 15w-40 or quaker state euro 5w-40. But you could just use vanilla 5w-30 and it'd be fine if you change it at olm or below.

Was planning on 5k intervals.

 

[FCD]

Anecdotal evidence, but i've ran full saps oils on engines that burned oil , for years without a cat failing, cars of my own and others that i maintained for a few elderly neighbors and some friends.

 

[burbguy82]

I hear ya but if the oil meets Fords requirements how can they deny me

Becasue they are a billion dollar company and you are JOE BLOW.

 

[camrydriver111]

Ya they only have, what 6 or so.......

They are all good, you can use any one.

 

[misterjake]

Okay, is this a typo? Ford says the oil must meet this spec:
FORD WSS-M2C961-A1

In the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 it says:
FORD WSS-M2C961-A
Shell Specs

It’s missing the “1” is this a typo or the “A1” and “A” different specs?

 

[Sandstorm]

valvoline EP HM 5W-30 is my vote. i service one 22’ F250 with the 7.3 and it’s the quietest it’s ever been on this oil.

I would go with this exact oil for your application as well. The EP HM with Maxlife 5W-30. Change it at 500 miles and every 5000 with the same oil thereafter. As Brendan mentioned, that engine loves this particular oil.

 

[The Lube Guy]

@misterjake the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has influenced the reduction of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) levels in motor oils primarily due to its mandate for catalytic converters to last over 100,000 miles. The approach taken was not to enhance the durability of catalytic converters—which would increase costs for manufacturers—but rather to adjust the chemical composition of motor oils. This was achieved through the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) specifications, in collaboration with the American Petroleum Institute (API), leading to a phosphorus limit of 800 parts per million (ppm) for all ILSAC grades.

Regarding your engine, it is not a "built motor" with cylinders that have been specifically honed by a machine shop. Consequently, it does not require a "traditional" break-in period using motor oils high in ZDDP and free from friction modifiers. The primary reason to consider early oil changes would be to remove any potential debris left from the manufacturing process.

As for the choice of oil, I wouldn't overthink it. If it were my vehicle, I'd opt for Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It offers excellent flow at cold starts and robust protection at high temperatures. What’s not to like?

 

[misterjake]

@misterjake the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has influenced the reduction of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) levels in motor oils primarily due to its mandate for catalytic converters to last over 100,000 miles. The approach taken was not to enhance the durability of catalytic converters—which would increase costs for manufacturers—but rather to adjust the chemical composition of motor oils. This was achieved through the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) specifications, in collaboration with the American Petroleum Institute (API), leading to a phosphorus limit of 800 parts per million (ppm) for all ILSAC grades.

Regarding your engine, it is not a "built motor" with cylinders that have been specifically honed by a machine shop. Consequently, it does not require a "traditional" break-in period using motor oils high in ZDDP and free from friction modifiers. The primary reason to consider early oil changes would be to remove any potential debris left from the manufacturing process.

As for the choice of oil, I wouldn't overthink it. If it were my vehicle, I'd opt for Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It offers excellent flow at cold starts and robust protection at high temperatures. What’s not to like?

Warranty and a motor that “may” have issues in 5000-80,000 miles.

 

[The Lube Guy]

Warranty and a motor that “may” have issues in 5000-80,000 miles.

Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 or Mobil 1 FS 5W-30. Both offer a nice MOFT with that ~3.6 HTHS, same as Mobil 1 0W-40. That way you'll be within Ford's viscosity recommendations. I'd opt for the ESP 5W-30 myself. I use it, and I have used FS 5W-30 as well. They are both great.

 

[ripcord]

Okay, is this a typo? Ford says the oil must meet this spec:
FORD WSS-M2C961-A1

In the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 it says:
FORD WSS-M2C961-A
Shell Specs

It’s missing the “1” is this a typo or the “A1” and “A” different specs?

Again, the Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 spec just adopted all the same requirements as the industry standard ILSAC GF-6 specification. As long as it meets that in a 5w-30 viscosity, you're covered.

 

[FTTSHO]

First oil change @500 miles on the odometer
Second oil change @1500miles on the odometer
Third oil change @3000miles on the odometer

After this just do it every 5k miles or 7k or 3k or whatever interval you feel like.

I follow this step on every new car.

If you follow this method, and if do an oil analysis each time during these first three oil changes, you will see wear numbers come down.

Oil filters are supposed to filter these wear metals out, but most oil filters are only 99% efficient at 30 microns. Some are 99% efficient at 20 microns, like Fram Ultra Synthetic filters for example. So some of the smaller wear metals will go right through the filter. It’s a good idea to just get these wear metals out of the engine by doing frequent oil changes during the first 3000 miles, because it these wear metals are floating around, that means it will go in between the bearing and all the contact points, which isn’t ideal.

And just use any 5w30 you can find at Walmart. Dont waste money buying the expensive oil during the first 3 oil changes because the OCI during these first 3 oil changes are really really short. I would use Quaker State full synthetic 5w30 during the first 3 oil changes, and continue using QSFS. No need to use expensive oils.

 

[belbers9715]

I think your plan is a good one. The fact that you are even thinking about what oil to use and changing the oil right away puts you ahead of 99% of the population. Use Mobil 1 with confidence and enjoy that truck!

 

[cptbarkey]

I would trust that the oil that is in there from the factory is what should be in there to break it in. Drop it at 3k and move

Hello all! First post!

Bought a brand new F250 7.3L last week! (4 miles on the odometer) Guessing the oil inside is motorcraft 5w-30?

Want to change it out at 500 miles. My reasoning is to get rid of the extra metals floating around the motor as it’s breaking in. Did some reading and higher zinc is great to break in motors. I’ve used mobile 1 syn in my previous vehicles without issue. Was wanting to use it for this truck I plan to have for 15+ years. I also read that higher zinc levels are bad for catalytic converters. I found for Mobile 1 5w-30 high mileage extended performance it has 800ppm phosphate and 870ppm zinc. It’s their highest zinc/phosphate other than their racing oils.
1. Does anybody have the motorcraft zinc numbers? Should I use motorcraft for the first 5k miles, then switch?
2. Cam lifter issues have occurred early on in this motors life. Is it still an issue? Have not seen it in threads lately.
3. The mobile 1 high mileage extended k performance oil meets Fords WAC-M2C961-A1 specs
4. So I go with a higher zinc oil for the first 2.5k then switch to mobile 1?
5. Am I splitting hairs?
6. I think big government wants us to intentionally shorten the life span of our engines. I won’t go down the road on why but the auto market seems it’s trying to adjust from the top down commands.
7. Gov is more worried about emissions than vehicle longevity by lowering the zinc levels. Could this be in part the cam/lifter issues? Also of course limited parts suppliers during COVID and parts being made in haste to satisfy demand.

I would trust that the oil that is in there from the factory is what should be in there to break it in. Drop it at 3k.
You dont need to justify your rational as you are in #6 and #7. Move on with life.

 

[The Lube Guy]

I would trust that the oil that is in there from the factory is what should be in there to break it in.

What break-in are you talking about?

 

[cptbarkey]

What break-in are you talking about?

What non break in are you talking about?

 

[misterjake]

Warranty and a motor that “may” have issues in 5000-80,000 miles.

Okay, is this a typo? Ford says the oil must meet this spec:
FORD WSS-M2C961-A1

In the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 it says:
FORD WSS-M2C961-A
Shell Specs

It’s missing the “1” is this a typo or the “A1” and “A” different specs?

I just called Shell and their ultra platinum does meet FORD WSS-M2C961-A1 specs. They have not updated their bottling yet but are in the process. FYI for those who search this up in the future.

 

[Chris142]

. Zinc is bad for the cats in newer vehicles they said

That is true if you have a real oil burner. I would hope that a new truck isn't an oil burner.