New engine Jeep 4.0L - which oil?

...Honda that just drove it smoking w/o doing anything else and the smoking stopped. What we figured was the synthetic was to slick and wasn't allowing the rings to seal allowing oil to slip by and end up in the combustion chambers. So that leads me to where I'm at today not fully trusting the synthetics. Am I just to afraid to step into the 2000's technology and it's benefits(?) or just unwilling to let go of what's been tried and true a good quality petroleum based oil? Is there still a good quality petroleum based oil available? Thanks again.
What synthetic oil was this dealership using?

There are good non-synthetics and semi-synthetics available everywhere today, but I have to tell you, most oils today are composed of Group II-V base oils even when advertised as mineral oils.


As @BMWTurboDzl stated, there was an early learning curve for synthesized (PAO) oils. But it was not because they were too slick, but because they did not include the proper seal swell chemistry.

Earlier, Amsoil marketed a synthesized oil but it was of a different base oil, a Group V ester. They had no leaks associated with this formulation. Later, as many others did, they switched to a PAO plus other groups and additive mixes that provided seal swell.

Historically, it was Mobil and its early copyists, in my opinion, that screwed up when they used a majority PAO but with insufficient or no seal swell components. I.e., in an effort to arrive on the scene early, it was not fully tested with existing seal technology.

Since 1972, there has no longer been a seal swell/leaking problem.


"...Seal Swell (Performance Additive): nitriles, specific esters, organic phosphates and aromatic hydrocarbons. Increases volume of elastomeric seals..."




 
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What was then considered synthetic was comprised of a mostly PAO (aka Group 4) base oil and there was a learning curve with regards to how PAO would harden seals and needed to be balanced with an ester (aka Group 5) to counter this hardening. Hardened valve stem seals could allow for oil burning. So perhaps back in the late 1970's there was some poor quality control in the oils blended. There are people on this board who (@TomYoung , @MolaKule ) who know a lot more about what was going on back then than I ever will.

Today "synthetic" is rather a marketing term and seal hardening is no longer an issue. The 4.0l was a great engine. Drove one myself for many years.
I have just been listed with @MolaKule in a favorable way. Awesome!
 
What synthetic oil was this dealership using?

There are good non-synthetics and semi-synthetics available everywhere today, but I have to tell you, most oils today are composed of Group II-V base oils even when advertised as mineral oils.


As @BMWTurboDzl stated, there was an early learning curve for synthesized (PAO) oils. But it was not because they were too slick, but because they did not include the proper seal swell chemistry.

Earlier, Amsoil marketed a synthesized oil but it was of a different base oil, a Group V ester. They had no leaks associated with this formulation. Later, as many others did, they switched to a PAO plus other groups and additive mixes that provided seal swell.

Historically, it was Mobil and its early copyists, in my opinion, that screwed up when they used a majority PAO but with insufficient or no seal swell components. I.e., in an effort to arrive on the scene early, it was not fully tested with existing seal technology.

Since 1972, there has no longer been a seal swell/leaking problem.


"...Seal Swell (Performance Additive): nitriles, specific esters, organic phosphates and aromatic hydrocarbons. Increases volume of elastomeric seals..."




In response to Mola Kule's question of what oil the dealership used IIRC it was either Amsoil or Mobile 1 as they were the "thing" then. I'm leaning to the Mobil 1 side though. I knew the rep for Amsoil and don't remember seeing him in the dealership very often but saw a lot of him when I began working in the parts house across the street from the dealership. We called him the "Snake Oil" salesman as none of the counter help had much faith in his product. You all have been very helpful and informative. Much appreciative of that. I'm going to have to make the trip to Wally World or the parts house and make my decision. Thanks again for all the input and knowledge gained.
 
Long time JEEP guy here, long time Rotella T5 and T6 user also for that application. I probably have a million miles with this combination and never an engine issue, one of our 4.0's is well beyond 500k mi still running around daily. I say well beyond because the odo. stopped at 490k mi and that was over 10 years ago. That XJ had about everything rebuilt or replaced 2 or 3 times EXCEPT anything involved with the rotating assemblies internal to the engine, or the front differential, or the TC.

The 4.0's LOVE a HDEO and just live a better life that way. I even ran it my 5.3 ZJ's at the end, prior to that I was always a V ML user. The HDEO will give you a good dose of Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP's), and with the CI block using the bigger filter to increase oil capacity is never a bad thing in terms of heat.

Simply put;
I would run a steady diet of the Rotella t6 in 0-40 or even a 5-40 with a WIX or an extra capacity MOTORCRAFT filter, and sleep well at night while the 4.0 outlives the next generation of your family! The oil is always available for dirt cheap at your local WM, as is the MOTORCARFT filter (IIRC it was the FL1A, but verify that first).

Happy JEEPing! (insert JEEP wave here)✌️
 
Whichever one is least expensive at Walmart.
I saw an add for Walmart the other day and I was surprised they were still around.

I know that probably seems dumb, but it's been many years since I've been to one and pretty much forgot about them, like KMART or Zayres.
 
Hello all. New here but not to wrenching. Just installed a reman 4.0 in my wifes 2000 Jeep TJ. Filled it up with Lucas 30w break in oil supplied my remanufacturer and told to change after 500 miles. We're at that point now and looking to do it's first oil change with Mopar filter but unsure on the oil. Have been a diehard Valvoline user since Pennzoil cost me a engine in my 66 Pontiac GTO way back when coffee was a dime. Now to current times. I've heard so much lately about Zinc and it's benefits> Is it really due the hype? Also a lot about the high mileage synthetics and the benefits(?) they provide. I just want to find the best 10-30 oil, recommended by rebuilder for 7 yr warranty, that will keep this old girl alive. She's just a mostly in town girl but will occasionally see some of Nevada's dirt roads. Any thought's and input appreciated. Thank you.
local builder or mail order?
 
Hello all. New here but not to wrenching. Just installed a reman 4.0 in my wifes 2000 Jeep TJ. Filled it up with Lucas 30w break in oil supplied my remanufacturer and told to change after 500 miles. We're at that point now and looking to do it's first oil change with Mopar filter but unsure on the oil. Have been a diehard Valvoline user since Pennzoil cost me a engine in my 66 Pontiac GTO way back when coffee was a dime. Now to current times. I've heard so much lately about Zinc and it's benefits> Is it really due the hype? Also a lot about the high mileage synthetics and the benefits(?) they provide. I just want to find the best 10-30 oil, recommended by rebuilder for 7 yr warranty, that will keep this old girl alive. She's just a mostly in town girl but will occasionally see some of Nevada's dirt roads. Any thought's and input appreciated. Thank you.
The jeep 4.0 is one of the most reliable engines ever. Oil brand is not a comcern, frequent oci are. Use an off the shelf like Valvoline Maxlife, or SuperTech syn HM.

southern nevada or northern? if northern I might rum 5w30

Most 5w30s i have seen specs on are thicker than 10w30s at operating temps, keep that in mind.
 
Used a rebuilder in Washington where I lived and installed quite a few of their engines and had it shipped here to Nw Nevada They suggested the 10w30 and of course no recommendations as brand
 
Used a rebuilder in Washington where I lived and installed quite a few of their engines and had it shipped here to Nw Nevada They suggested the 10w30 and of course no recommendations as brand
That’s not a bad suggestion. But there are definitely other decent suggestions in this thread.
 
A long forum post from 2014 that argues Rotella T6 being the best for the 4.0 Jeep motors... Actually what turned me to the Brotella for my Jeeps at the time 😂


Again- 2014. Haven't reread it to see if what he says was accurate, but pretty sure there's been formula changes since then, so kinda moot. Also, prior to my BITOG days.
 
That’s not a bad suggestion. But there are definitely other decent suggestions in this thread.
In that I agree 110% regarding the suggestions and advice given here. There are a lot of really smart people on here that have spent a lifetime, however long it's been, listening to others and sharing those experiences with us. Thank you all.
 
A long forum post from 2014 that argues Rotella T6 being the best for the 4.0 Jeep motors... Actually what turned me to the Brotella for my Jeeps at the time 😂


Again- 2014. Haven't reread it to see if what he says was accurate, but pretty sure there's been formula changes since then, so kinda moot. Also, prior to my BITOG days.
What a informative article. To Duckless's point the info is 10 years old and a lot has gotten better but if you pick a few points to do your own research on I'm sure the answer will become obvious to you. Thank you Duckless for remembering this article.
 
A long forum post from 2014 that argues Rotella T6 being the best for the 4.0 Jeep motors... Actually what turned me to the Brotella for my Jeeps at the time 😂


Again- 2014. Haven't reread it to see if what he says was accurate, but pretty sure there's been formula changes since then, so kinda moot. Also, prior to my BITOG days.
i do not think t6 5w40 is spark rated anymore
 
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