Which Mobil 1 5W-30 oil?

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I mean, you could pick by grade, but realize there are large variations within a grade "bucket". If you need to pick a particular grade to scratch your warranty compliance itch, fine. Of your listed 5w-30s from mobil, some are close to a 20, and some close to a 40 (in terms of HTHS and/or actual viscosity measure.)

I'm trying to help you realize that 5w-30 is somewhat of an arbitrary designation.
 
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I mean, you could pick by grade, but realize there are large variations within a grade "bucket". If you need to pick a particular grade to scratch your warranty compliance itch, fine. Of your listed 5w-30s from mobil, some are close to a 20, and some close to a 40 (in terms of HTHS and/or actual viscosity measure.)

I'm trying to help you realize that 5w-30 is somewhat of an arbitrary designation.
I'm definitely sticking 5W-30 oils that meets Ford's specs, for the warranty coverage. I've decided on either Mobil 1 Extended Performance or Valvoline Extended Protection.

Which oil filter to use is a bigger issue for me now.

Thanks, NYH1.
 
Case in point, viscosity for the M1 EP is 10.1. Range for a 30 weight is 9.3-12.5. M1 has some 5w-30s that are 11.9, 12.2, etc.

Have valvetrain issues of the 7.3 been sorted for the 6.8?
 
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Out of interest, of the 5w-30 grade oils you've considered, have you noticed the widely different hot viscosity and/or HTHS ratings?

You can pick a 5w-30 with 100 C viscosity of 8.5 cSt, or you can pick one ~12.5. Personally, I'd pick based on viscosity and HTHS, not by grade.
If an oil has a viscosity of 8.5 cst at 100c that won’t be an Xw30, it will be an Xw20. The lower limit for a 30 is 9.3.
 
Thank you. Then I guess you Google each brand and see where it falls inside the spread ?
That’s correct. For example this is the product page for M1 EP. You’re looking for 100c vis. (I prefer to use HTHS, but some manufacturers don’t give us that information)

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Sometimes it is quicker to google the brand and grade of the oil you want and add PDS to your search as some companies make it difficult to find the info on their site. So something like “Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 PDS” will take you to a Shell live docs page.

And lastly, we have our own VOA database here on the site. Great source of BITOG member submitted VOA’s. Thanks to member @himemsys for maintaining it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-database.360118/

Edit: also keep in mind that there are lab variances. And, as a rule, I’m almost always suspicious of blackstone’s numbers.
 
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Case in point, viscosity for the M1 EP is 10.1. Range for a 30 weight is 9.3-12.5. M1 has some 5w-30s that are 11.9, 12.2, etc.

Have valvetrain issues of the 7.3 been sorted for the 6.8?
I've heard the lifter issues they were having was mostly with trucks that idled for really long periods of time. From what I gather, trucks that were driven normally, generally don't have those issues. But I really don't know.

What is your opinion of Valvoline Extended Protection 5W-30 oil?

Thanks, NYH.
 
While M1 Vanilla is a very good oil , when WM stocks the M1 EP for $2 more - I opt to spend the extra for what I believe to be the better oil in EP .
The "better" is noticeable only if you extend your OCI far beyond 10k miles. If not, don't bother. They will both perform equally acceptable.
 
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The "better" is noticeable only if you extend your OCI far beyond 10k miles. If not, don't bother. They will both perform equally acceptable.
The base oil (more GTL / Grp 4 in EP) (primarily group 3 in Vanilla Mobil-1) and the additives counts are different. The EP is a stronger oil.

I run Amsoil short OCIs and will soon do similar with HPL. Yet I sleep fine and it never crosses my mind that I waste money on my oil choices & their length of service. With proper OCIs, better EP oils - better boutque oils keep my engine insides pristine, quiet and non-consumers.

The EP and the ESP lineup are better oils, from Zero Mileage of the OCI to short 3k OCIs. The Vanilla Mobil-1 is NOT equal to them.
 
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That’s correct. For example this is the product page for M1 EP. You’re looking for 100c vis. (I prefer to use HTHS, but some manufacturers don’t give us that information)

View attachment 237675

Sometimes it is quicker to google the brand and grade of the oil you want and add PDS to your search as some companies make it difficult to find the info on their site. So something like “Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 PDS” will take you to a Shell live docs page.

And lastly, we have our own VOA database here on the site. Great source of BITOG member submitted VOA’s. Thanks to member @himemsys for maintaining it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-database.360118/

Edit: also keep in mind that there are lab variances. And, as a rule, I’m almost always suspicious of blackstone’s numbers.
Wow, thank you !
 
I wouldn't mind the 6.8 super duty but I dislike that you can't even option the 10r140 with it and have to get the 7.3 or 6.7 to get it. I'd get the 7.3 gas not for the power but for the beefier trans. As for oil I'm not running 5w-30 in either of my 5w-30 calling OHV v8's. I'm using 15w-40 and they're much happier with it. Dead silent valvetrain at hot idle after running for hours in this heat. I'm also using 5w-40 instead of 0w-20 in my new one and it too quieted down to where I can hear the pump unlike before which was a valvetrain clatter fest in comparison. A whole lot quieter and healthier sounding.

But if you really want to stick with 5w-30 and it must be m1 for whatever reason I'd use m1 EP and run it for two intervals which would probably be 10-13k and not worry about it since it's an NA non direct injected ohv engine with a big sump and it not being turbo or direct injected means it's soft on oil.
 
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I wouldn't mind the 6.8 super duty but I dislike that you can't even option the 10r140 with it and have to get the 7.3 or 6.7 to get it. I'd get the 7.3 gas not for the power but for the beefier trans. As for oil I'm not running 5w-30 in either of my 5w-30 calling OHV v8's. I'm using 15w-40 and they're much happier with it. Dead silent valvetrain at hot idle after running for hours in this heat. I'm also using 5w-40 instead of 0w-20 in my new one and it too quieted down to where I can hear the pump unlike before which was a valvetrain clatter fest in comparison. Whole lot quieter and healthier sounding.

But if you really want to stick with 5w-30 and it must be m1 for whatever reason I'd use m1 EP and run it for two intervals which would probably be 10-13k and not worry about it since it's an NA non direct injected ohv engine with a big sump and it not being turbo or direct injected means it's soft on oil.
I'm definitely sticking with a 5W-30 oil that meets Ford's specs.

I'm open to Valvoline 5W-30 oil as well. Read a lot of good things on their Extended Protection and Extended Protection High Milage oils.

Thanks, NYH.
 
I'm definitely sticking with a 5W-30 oil that meets Ford's specs.

I'm open to Valvoline 5W-30 oil as well. Read a lot of good things on their Extended Protection and Extended Protection High Milage oils.

Thanks, NYH.
With Valvoline extended protection doesn't really extend protection in the form that it's a longer drain interval oil like with m1 or castrol EP. It's really just higher in moly so it's supposed to reduce wear but even that still remains to be seen as in standard uoa's wear metals are within margin of error compared to others and Ford's spec is rather worthless to be honest. It's so easy to meet you can achieve that spec with just a synthetic blend, not even necessary to make it full synthetic. The new GM dexos 1 Gen 3 is a more stringent oil in comparison to where I have yet to see a d1g3 oil not be full synthetic but I have seen the old d1g2 be achievable with a syn blend but even then d1g3 is still not stringent enough for my liking. I'd rather use something more stringent still like a Euro rated oil with bmw ll01/ll04, Porsche a40, mb229.5, vw504/507 for certifications as those specifications are more difficult to meet and prove that wear and deposits control is superior. As for 15W-40 diesel oils are also stringent specifically the Volvo VDS 4.5 which is a stringent spec for wear and oxidation control. I believe the test runs for 360 hours and the oil can't oxidatively thicken much and there are many other parameters to test for which are also great and they can also be used in gasoline engines with no issue if they are not prone to low speed pre ignition (pretty much only turbo gdi engines are prone to low speed pre ignition, naturally aspirated engines with or without gdi aren't prone to low speed pre ignition. It's possible for a standard fuel injected big turbo engine to have low speed pre ignition but it's rare as you kind of need the combination to make it happen since the turbo exacerbates the issue) But even if the engine is lspi prone as long as it meets API SP which some diesel oils do it's acceptable to use as they're low saps and traded calcium for more magnesium. And you would think that the dealership would care or even know about the oil specs but there are actual ford master techs that have no clue about ford oil specifications. A lot literally do not know that they exist. The only thing they do look for is their service records and if they don't have any on hand they might charge you a little bit to pull the valve cover off to just see if it looks clean or not. It doesn't have to look spotless, they know that varnish is acceptable they just don't want to see any sludge. They will also pull the dipstick just to see if it was ran low but as long as there's oil on the stick and it's not too dirty they will warranty the engine no issue.
 
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With Valvoline extended protection doesn't really extend protection in the form that it's a longer drain interval oil like with m1 or castrol EP. It's really just higher in moly so it's supposed to reduce wear but even that still remains to be seen as in standard uoa's wear metals are within margin of error compared to others and Ford's spec is rather worthless to be honest. It's so easy to meet you can achieve that spec with just a synthetic blend, not even necessary to make it full synthetic. The new GM dexos 1 Gen 3 is a more stringent oil in comparison to where I have yet to see a d1g3 oil not be full synthetic but I have seen the old d1g2 be achievable with a syn blend but even then d1g3 is still not stringent enough for my liking. I'd rather use something more stringent still like a Euro rated oil with bmw ll01/ll04, Porsche a40, mb229.5, vw504/507 for certifications as those specifications are more difficult to meet and prove that wear and deposits control is superior. As for 15W-40 diesel oils are also stringent specifically the Volvo VDS 4.5 which is a stringent spec for wear and oxidation control. I believe the test runs for 360 hours and the oil can't oxidatively thicken much and there are many other parameters to test for which are also great and they can also be used in gasoline engines with no issue if they are not prone to low speed pre ignition (pretty much only turbo gdi engines are prone to low speed pre ignition, naturally aspirated engines with or without gdi aren't prone to low speed pre ignition. It's possible for a standard fuel injected big turbo engine to have low speed pre ignition but it's rare as you kind of need the combination to make it happen since the turbo exacerbates the issue) But even if the engine is lspi prone as long as it meets API SP which some diesel oils do it's acceptable to use as they're low saps and traded calcium for more magnesium. And you would think that the dealership would care or even know about the oil specs but there are actual ford master techs that have no clue about ford oil specifications. A lot literally do not know that they exist. The only thing they do look for is their service records and if they don't have any on hand they might charge you a little bit to pull the valve cover off to just see if it looks clean or not. It doesn't have to look spotless, they know that varnish is acceptable they just don't want to see any sludge. They will also pull the dipstick just to see if it was ran low but as long as there's oil on the stick and it's not too dirty they will warranty the engine no issue.
I just bought a $56k plus dollar truck. It has 600 miles on it. It has a 5-year, 50k mile powertrain warranty. And I'm going to add an extended warranty. I'M GOING TO USE A MOTOR OIL THAT MEETS FORD'S SPECS....END OF STORY!

GM, Porsche, BMW, Volvo aren't going to cover any warranty repairs so the oil's they use are meaningless to me.

I'm also going to be doing 5,000± oil and filter changes as mentioned.

NYH1.
 
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