Whats considered high milage?

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I have a Kawasaki KLR250. It's a single cylinder engine. It's cruising rpm is about 7000 with a redline of 10.5 rpm.

It just turned over 10,000 miles. Is this considered high miles? If not What is considered high miles?
 
I would consider 10k high milage for a 250cc single, or any single moreso on a small displacement.

It boils down to how well and properly mantained the bike is/was.
 
How the bike is used is very much relevant. If the machine has been run at the top of the rev range, not been properly maintained nor had valves,cam chains adjusted, I'd say 10K would be high mileage. On the other hand, if the oil has been changed at around 2000 mile intervals, valves and cam chains in proper adjustment and the engine run in the middle of the rev range, I'd say that would not be high mileage for the engine. The type of riding would have a bearing on the condition of the rest of the machine. Relaxed cruising on the road with some light trail riding would contribute little to wear on rolling and chassis components and engine wear. Pounding the machine over rough trails, dust and submersion in water will certainly reduce the life of the machine. As I said, wear is relevant to the use of the machine.
 
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Tough call on a single 250cc but I would keep riding it until you notice power loss. I had people tell me 15,000 was high mileage on my RD350 2 cycle. When I hit 40,000 miles on the stock motor they were amazed. I know the guy who bought it put 10-20k on it before he tore into the engine.
 
KLR650s are know to exceed 80K without major engine work. They're liquid cooled singles with a fairly high cruising rpms. Stock gearing will have the engine spinning over 4500 at 60 mph. So it's not like they're slow revving engines. If the engine is not abused, well lubricated and properly adjusted, it should get to 50K and probably more. I've run air cooled 250cc ATV engines for twenty plus years and they're still running. Those engines were run pretty hard too.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
Tough call on a single 250cc but I would keep riding it until you notice power loss. I had people tell me 15,000 was high mileage on my RD350 2 cycle. When I hit 40,000 miles on the stock motor they were amazed. I know the guy who bought it put 10-20k on it before he tore into the engine.


That's one of the great things about two strokes. Even the most inept owner could run them for ever provided they kept the oil reservoir full. Guys I knew as a teen who owned BSAs, Triumphs, Nortons and Harelys were constantly fixing their bikes. The harder they rode them the less they could ride. When they switched over to the two stroke Japanese machines, they very seldom did any work on them. Adjust the points, change spark plugs, add two cycle oil and keep riding. And they flogged those old Suzukis, Kawasakis and Yamahas mercilessly. The more they flogged them and saw that they didn't break, they'd flog them harder and they still held up.

They were truly amazing engines for their time. A well treated RD engine could go for many, many miles without issues. Now, on the flip side, if something did go wrong with with the engine, it would usually be big. Lots of stuff happens when things let go at 9000+ rpm.
 
I got the bike used with 5700 miles on it. The first thing I did was adjust the valves and replaced the airfilter.

Been changing the oil @ 500 miles because it's in the dirt 90% of the time.
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
I got the bike used with 5700 miles on it. The first thing I did was adjust the valves and replaced the airfilter.

Been changing the oil @ 500 miles because it's in the dirt 90% of the time.


If it's running well now and you continue to treat it well, you'll likely keep it running strong for a good long time. With oil changes that frequent, Rotella or Delvac would be best bang for the buck. I run Rotella 15W40 in my off road four stroke machines with no problems. Are you using an oiled foam filter. Strongly recommend it over paper filters for dirt riding.
 
Ya it has an oiled foam filter. I have to seal the sides with grease though. Stupid design.

I tried the 15w-40's and the shifting was terrible from the get go. It currantly has Maxima 20w-50 in it and @ 600 miles it's very notchy now.

The shifting gets bad @ about 500 miles and thats why I change the oil so much.

I change the oil filter every 2 or 3 oil changes. The oil filter is a canister style and is easily inspected and so far I have not seen any nasties in it.

The oil filter is larger than the filter on some cars.

And for the record the clutch has never slipped on any oil brand. Even ones loaded with Moly.

Bike runs fine and does not use oil in 500 miles.
 
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All good stuff you're doing there. My KLR650 shifts fine with 15W40 for 2000 miles or so then starts to get a little notchy. That usually my signal to change the oil. I too change the filter every third oil change. There no need to change it more frequently. I also pull the filter apart and inspect the folds. Nice and clean every time. Kawasaki might not make the most sophisticated or smoothest singles but they are known for their rugged durability. I've seen some KLRs so beat up and neglected that I thought they were ready to be scrapped. I saw one in an automotive store parking lot with rubber worn down to slicks, seat tore up so bad the owner was using his jacket to keep it together. Torn dust boots, sagging chain on rusty sprockets, oil seeping from valve cover gasket, paint? what paint?, broken plastics etc. The owner came out of the store jumped on it fired it right up and drove off. I've seen more than one like that. Sounds like yours is in very good condition. Take care of it and it will last.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: PT1
Tough call on a single 250cc but I would keep riding it until you notice power loss. I had people tell me 15,000 was high mileage on my RD350 2 cycle. When I hit 40,000 miles on the stock motor they were amazed. I know the guy who bought it put 10-20k on it before he tore into the engine.


That's one of the great things about two strokes. Even the most inept owner could run them for ever provided they kept the oil reservoir full. Guys I knew as a teen who owned BSAs, Triumphs, Nortons and Harelys were constantly fixing their bikes. The harder they rode them the less they could ride. When they switched over to the two stroke Japanese machines, they very seldom did any work on them. Adjust the points, change spark plugs, add two cycle oil and keep riding. And they flogged those old Suzukis, Kawasakis and Yamahas mercilessly. The more they flogged them and saw that they didn't break, they'd flog them harder and they still held up.

They were truly amazing engines for their time. A well treated RD engine could go for many, many miles without issues. Now, on the flip side, if something did go wrong with with the engine, it would usually be big. Lots of stuff happens when things let go at 9000+ rpm.


My RD350 never had any engine issues except fouled plugs when I would change oil brands. The bike was a complete no-brainer. My best friend had one that went about 50% more miles than mine on the stock motor before he traded it. Just add oil & gas and keep going. I wish they would bring back that design in a 700cc version. I would buy one in a heartbeat.
 
I got 15k on my drz400 and was wondering the same thing, whether I should pull it apart at 20k and through a new piston or just ring it. Since it has a extended warranty on it, I will probably leave it alone until 2011 when it expires. I tried running Rotella in it as well but the shifting wasn't there and went back to Amsoil at 2k intervals. Valves are still in spec but will need adjusted soon.
 
Originally Posted By: Harley Anderson
I got 15k on my drz400 and was wondering the same thing, whether I should pull it apart at 20k and through a new piston or just ring it. Since it has a extended warranty on it, I will probably leave it alone until 2011 when it expires. I tried running Rotella in it as well but the shifting wasn't there and went back to Amsoil at 2k intervals. Valves are still in spec but will need adjusted soon.


Do a compression test. If it's up to spec, keep riding. Not sure if your engine will have a decompression mechanisms on it to assist starting. If it does, you'll need to either disable it or bypass it some way to get a true compression reading.

The DZR400 and KLX400 are virtually the same bike with some subtle differences. I think Suzuki built the KLX for Kawasaki in some short term joint venture they had going. I looked pretty hard at a DZR when I was shopping for a dual purpose machine. It was just a bit too small for my needs. Not enough seat nor fuel capacity. Those were my main gripes. I did like the size of the machine otherwise and I'm certain that it would have enough power for short highway hauls. The KLR650 has a good seat, lots of fuel capacity and is great on the highway and dirt roads. For anyone less than 250 lbs. in weight and in decent shape, it's major pig on anything rougher than well groomed trails. The DZR and KLX would definitely outshine the KLR there.
 
Originally Posted By: Harley Anderson
I got 15k on my drz400 and was wondering the same thing, whether I should pull it apart at 20k and through a new piston or just ring it. Since it has a extended warranty on it, I will probably leave it alone until 2011 when it expires. I tried running Rotella in it as well but the shifting wasn't there and went back to Amsoil at 2k intervals. Valves are still in spec but will need adjusted soon.


I would keep riding it until you feel some power loss or notice heavy oil consumption. Some of them get put together well at the factory and seem to go forever and some need engine work in 20-30k. Just use good oils, keep the plugs fresh and ride on. You may be surprised.
 
Thanks guys, thats what I figured. It doesn't use any oil or have any power loss at all. I came from a motocross racing background and I'm not used to not working on a bike. I actually have the supermoto version with the better showa supension which I outfitted dirt tires on it after I got true street bike.

Boraticus, after I pay off my Buell, I plan on buying a Ktm 950 super enduro or adventure and keeping the drz for a spair bike.
 
Originally Posted By: Harley Anderson
Thanks guys, thats what I figured. It doesn't use any oil or have any power loss at all. I came from a motocross racing background and I'm not used to not working on a bike. I actually have the supermoto version with the better showa supension which I outfitted dirt tires on it after I got true street bike.

Boraticus, after I pay off my Buell, I plan on buying a Ktm 950 super enduro or adventure and keeping the drz for a spair bike.


You might want to think twice about a KTM Super Duke. The maintenance is extremely complicated on the KTM V-twin. A do-it-yourself oil change could easily be a four hour job. Those engines have three oil filters. So, not only will it be labour intensive, it will also be expensive. I'd be more inclined to look at a Suzuki V-Strom or some other large adventure style bike that's easier and less expensive to maintain.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: Harley Anderson
Thanks guys, thats what I figured. It doesn't use any oil or have any power loss at all. I came from a motocross racing background and I'm not used to not working on a bike. I actually have the supermoto version with the better showa supension which I outfitted dirt tires on it after I got true street bike.

Boraticus, after I pay off my Buell, I plan on buying a Ktm 950 super enduro or adventure and keeping the drz for a spair bike.


You might want to think twice about a KTM Super Duke. The maintenance is extremely complicated on the KTM V-twin. A do-it-yourself oil change could easily be a four hour job. Those engines have three oil filters. So, not only will it be labour intensive, it will also be expensive. I'd be more inclined to look at a Suzuki V-Strom or some other large adventure style bike that's easier and less expensive to maintain.


950 Super Enduro is not the Super Duke, 2 different bikes.

You can also beef up your DRZ with a Keihn flatside carb and a high comp piston. That is if you ever need to replace your rings. The DRZ motard and street version have considerably less ponies thna the dirt only version, primarly because of those two things I listed above.

Boraticus mentioned a V-strom wich is a great bike, but if you are looking at a Super Enduro, then you obviouly want a more dirt oreinted bike.
Since you have a DRZ and plan on keeping it, a more street oriented bike like the Strom might be better for you, give you the best of both worlds.

By the way I sold my 2002 Honda XR650L, I had it heavily modded everything that could have been done was done to it. I basically wanted a street legal dirtbike. It hit 13k when I sold it and I had 0 problems, not bad for an aircooled single. That bike was much more comfortable on the street than a DRZ but still the long ride's it started to suck. A Strom or Versys would have been nice, but thats what my cruiser is for I suppose.
 
I have 2 bikes right now, A buell Xb12x which can do a little dirt and my drz motard that I have a extra set of dirt tires and rims. I planned on keeping my drz as a spair bike so my brother or father could ride with me, or incase the buell was down. I had a street legal yamaha wr426 before the drz and it was nothing but problems putting street miles on it. The Super Enduro is just a fun weekend riding dirt bike for me which shouldn't get too many miles accumulated on it like my other bikes and I do all my own maintenance. After 6 years of racing motocross, I had quite a few bikes tore down to nothing. Doing valves every 10 hours, sucks though.
 
This is the highest mileage bike that I have ever seen.

550890065_ytErb-L.jpg


Its a 1995 BMW R1100GS with the original engine and trans.
 
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