JASO Wet Clutch Additive?

[James71]

I would just drain it, and refill with the proper oil. Why risk damage for a couple hundred bucks.

 

[Bonz]

Auto Oil is serviceable... ride as is...

There is no such thing as "for wet clutch" oil... given that motorcycles are small
part of the main oil market share our motorcycle oil is chiefly reformulated Auto
oil... In fact we don't find sufficient differences in additive package between
Mobil 1 Auto (80% market share) or Mobil 1 4T MC (10% market share)...
However due to low quantities major difference is cost...

Here are virgin oil samples of $4.89 a quart Mobil 1 Auto Oil 10W40
and $9.98 a quart Mobil 4T Motorcycle specific oil... the additive packages
are so similar that our wet clutch wouldn't know the difference...

Technically speaking mileage not additives is the cause of our clutches to loose
grip...

Mobil has no auto 10w40 oil with that zinc content and haven't had 1800 ppm zinc in the 10w40 4T oil for a decade. Same thing, different day posting results from the past that have no bearing in 2024.

 

[Bonz]

That’s like saying people that tested negative for aids don’t have aids and people that didn’t get tested are considered to have aids.

This test has been around for ages, by now we should know what specific attributes/additives or whatever else makes an oil wet clutch compatible. Yet we don’t.
And the virgin oil analysis of the so called motorcycle oils don’t look any different than an equivalent car oils.

See my post above. Don't take the bait with BLS and his ancient oil analysis comparison. Those oils haven't been available for a long time with those formulations. It's misinformation and misleading unless the analysis has date of the oil samples to back it up, which he doesn't provide dates or it would be clear it's irrelevant info.

 

[Mackelroy]

So I goofed up. I purchased four 2L canisters of Motul V300 Racing Line 10W-40 for my 2014 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636 ABS. I bought I was buying the V300 4T. I usually run Kawasaki synthetic with a Kawi filter, but switched to Hi-Flo filter and Motul. 4 cans of this ran me $160. I just noticed on the can it said Car Racing Oil. I thought. Hmm. That's odd.
So I just listed the bike up for sale. It's been meticulously maintained & only 8500 miles. I'm 38 and too old for a supersport. Getting me a hypernaked.

So I took the bike out a couple weeks ago and the bike ran fine. I would have noticed if the clutch was slipping. I mean, I didn't WOT it, but a good 80% throttle several times. It was the longest ride I had on the bike in a while.

So my questions are... will it be OK till the next oil change? I always changed my oil at the end of the year, so 8500 miles & (2014) 10 oil changes lol I noticed today it was about half a quart low so I filled it with some Kawasaki Synthetic. There's definitely some wet clutch friction modifiers in there now. I hope I'm using that term right. I did some reading on the forum ahead of time prior to posting this. Lastly, are there any JASO certified additives I can use?
Now I don't know what to use the remaining 2 cans of oil for now. Guess I'll sell them?

put remaining oil in you car or lawnmower or sell it.

just cause it didnt slip right off the bat, doesnt mean it eventually will if your plates start glossing over, due to friction modifiers.

if concerned about new owner, just dump it and install some 15w40 diesil like super 1300 mobil one. Then dont have to worry about it.

 

[Bonz]

I'm trying to understand your conundrum. You want to add something to the oil to offset the fact that it's a 10w40 car oil? To my knowledge there are no 10w40 car oils that specifically use friction modifiers. That's reserved for the lighter weights. As well I'm not sure what you mean by there are wet clutch friction modifiers in the bike now that you've added a half qt. of Kawasaki oil? A wet clutch oil as you are calling it, does not have friction modifiers. At least that's how it reads to me what you are saying.

You have changed the oil every 850 mi (!). Unless you've run the bike at the drag strip and smoked it, there is no issue with that clutch. Dump it and put in some 15w40 diesel oil as was recommended above and sell the bike and it won't worry you anymore.

 

[Chris142]

I have been riding since 1977. I have never had a clutch slip due to the oil. I ran Automotive oils for decades.

 

[Bonz]

Much Ado About nothing, but otherwise none of us would have a reason to post.

 

[Mackelroy]

Mobil has no auto 10w40 oil with that zinc content and haven't had 1800 ppm zinc in the 10w40 4T oil for a decade. Same thing, different day posting results from the past that have no bearing in 2024.

Yes people look at additives of voa or uoa, but it tells nothing of the Base oil. MX4t, used to have a flash of 487 degrees, mobil 1 car oil around 440 degrees.

nowadays they are all 440, the base oil of mx4t has taken a step down, while cost and profit went up.

 

[Bonz]

From a flashpoint perspective, that may be the case. From a functional perspective they are stout oils that hold grade well.

 

[Hermann]

This must stem back to the "Oil is Oil" thread in the PCMO forum, lol.

If I was selling that bike, I'd just go to Walmart and get some Valvoline 4T motorcycle oil and change the oil before selling it. I've used it for many years in many motorcycles and it worked well, even in the Hayabusa.

You mean "oil isn't oil"

 

[ZeeOSix]

You mean "oil isn't oil"

When someone says "There is no such thing as "for wet clutch" oil... " then they are basically in the mindset of thinking that "oil is oil", and that any oil will work just the same in anything.