I'm not aware of any motorcycle oil that has a Mo level over 400 and those are the outliers of the group (Torco and Redline), most are in the 30-80ppm range, none are 700+ like what the OP put in.
JASO Wet Clutch Additive?
- Thread starter Right-Handed Neutrino
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I know this is probably a no, but do you remember where you read that from?
I'm not arguing with you. The whole Ester thing has kinda been my thing I've been researching, how good it is in general, not bike specific. If true, this would pop my bubble.
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I didn't realize this thread got to 2 and now 3 pages. I got some catching up to do.
I read the first half of page 2 and then skimmed through the last half. Seems like this may be going where my next question is and thats..
Can I have my oil sent off and use the JASO standard to see if it has enough of whatever it needs?
I'm probably going to buy some Kawasaki Synthetic and run that, but like I said, this stuff is the good stuff. I'd hate to waste it on a low rpm pickup motor. I'll make the switch to Motul V300 4t next time. But if this oil can be ran with clutch disc's that have been soaked in Kawi Synthetic its whole life of 10 years, maybe I can get some usage of the 5L I have left of it. Or put it up on Facebook Marketplace and get offered $20 for both 2L cans.
I read the first half of page 2 and then skimmed through the last half. Seems like this may be going where my next question is and thats..
Can I have my oil sent off and use the JASO standard to see if it has enough of whatever it needs?
I'm probably going to buy some Kawasaki Synthetic and run that, but like I said, this stuff is the good stuff. I'd hate to waste it on a low rpm pickup motor. I'll make the switch to Motul V300 4t next time. But if this oil can be ran with clutch disc's that have been soaked in Kawi Synthetic its whole life of 10 years, maybe I can get some usage of the 5L I have left of it. Or put it up on Facebook Marketplace and get offered $20 for both 2L cans.
If you could find a certified lab to do JASO spec testing, it would probably cost about as much as your bike is worth. If you're worried about the oil, just change it and use the oil in something else or sell it.
Here's an Ester based motorcycle oil with JASO MA2 on the bottle.
https://www.championlubes.com/en-us.../champion-proracing-gp-4t-5w40-ester/29152-02
https://www.championlubes.com/en-us.../champion-proracing-gp-4t-5w40-ester/29152-02
Honest to goodness. As noted already just go to Walmart and get the correct oil.
I feel like we’re being trolled at this point. If it bothers OP so much, there are plenty of cheap oils that are JASO certified. But instead he wants to test the current oil. Yeah, makes total sense 
Well Yes, cause Ive seen Jaso rated oils cause slippage, where other jaso rated oils dont on the same clutch pack.
Totally baffling
And I bet that oil didn't actually have an official JASO registration logo on the bottle - so they never paid JASO anything. Probably only said something like "meets JASO MA" or similar on the bottle. In cases like that you either trust their claim or you don't. In most cases it won't cause any problems. Those oils were not submitted to JASO for registration, and don't show up in the JASO registration list of oils.
What bike and what oil was it?
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What about Oronite OLOA 21030A, 22005, 21020A, 22021, 22028T, 22025X or 22025 additive packages?
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Those are engine oil addpacks and materials for specific formulations supplied in high volume for commercial blending. OP was asking originally about OTC aftermarket additives.
Exactly, these are pretty much “packages” for blenders to meet certain requirements or test, such as the JASO test. These are not a single additive that one can identify and purchase separately to be added to an oil and “convert” it to meet the JASO spec.
Yup, could literally go to walmart and buy a jug of Rotella T4 and sleep easy at night.I feel like we’re being trolled at this point. If it bothers OP so much, there are plenty of cheap oils that are JASO certified. But instead he wants to test the current oil. Yeah, makes total sense
I apologize for contributing to "hearsay".
I thought I read somewhere about ester oil not being ideal for wet clutch applications, but I can't remember where I read that, and both Motul and Yamaha make an ester formulation specifically for motorcycles.
Yamaha or Motul might be able to fib about their oil, but it's extremely unlikely they would both do so.
Like @thastinger says, go grab a gallon of Rotella T4 and move on.
What about ZMAX wet clutch additive, 4 OZ tube for $13.95?
I found it hard to believe that the additive/snake oil industry would pass up on a wet clutch engine oil additive.
Simply buy a drum (208L) of motorcycle (or Caterpillar TO-4) add pack for a couple thousand bucks and put it in 4 OZ tubes.
edit; Lucas "stop slip" ATF additive?
That's enough for one day, tomorrow we can talk about space lasers.
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Yes just said meets ma2 KTM 500
valvoline 20w50 full syn , the Dino version 20w50 no issue.
I'd just done a new top end on the bike, and decided to run the full syn, had slippage, fully rebuilt the clutch and even upgraded the pressure pack, still had the issue.
Couldnt be the oil? but it was
this was a few years back, If I run this full syn at all, cause I have alot of left over bottles, its just as a top off oil. I definitely dont run a full change on this oil , after having the slippage issue.
Which of course isn't the same as having a JASO license and the proper logo. They aren't required to list this but it helps to determine the veracity of the claim.
Yeah meets or exceeds claim, may be worthless.
I mostly ran the Dino oil (which is also a meets or exceeds claim) , which never had the issue, the specs are really quite similar, but something with the full Syn is definitely slicker on the clutch.
About 20 years ago I put some 10w30 redline in a DRZ 400 and for a couple weeks, Id be cruising along about 55/60 on the flat, and it would feel like the clutch would intermittently break lose, so slight I just thought it was in my Head.
Later took the bike to a big mountain, burning through the gears on an incline, hit top gear and that clutch broke loose like crazy.
went home and stuck a known good clutch oil in(rotella), and went back to same place and no issues. That redline was car oil, with like 745 molly.
The redline mc oils max out around 345 molly, atleast the ones meant to meet an MA friction gate.
Yeah, there are a couple of outlier MC oils that have Moly levels close to 400 but they are few(Torco & Redline). Most MC specific oils are going to be in the 40-80 Moly range. I'm not aware of any MC specific oils that are above 400.