Another A40 or 229.5 vote here
What oil spec is considered to be the best/strongest if price was all the same?
- Thread starter apollo18
- Start date
Ask for me tomorrow, and you'll find me a grave man.It's the Shakespeare translator.
I'll go with API CK-4/SN+ or CK-4/SP. It's the top ring turn around wear and ring zone deposits that concern me.
When my stash of D1G3 5w30 is used up, I'll try Delo 400 5w40 and UOA it in a 2022 3.6L Acadia.
I was thinking of a 5w40 SP product, which are thinner as a group, but I already have 1 1/2 pails of the Delo.
Besides, thicker offers more "head room" and, "an extra layer of protection".
Last edited:
Wouldn't Valvoline's Restore & Protect NOW be a better oil for you?
Depends of the vehicle. You wouldn't want to put a SH rated for an 1990s car or truck in a modern direct injected engine and you wouldn't want to run SP oil in an anything with a flat tappet cam.
A generalization that doesn't take into account the actual requirements for API SP.
How much ZDDP does a flat-tappet engine need after break-in? Is the amount in Mobil 1 0W-40 insufficient? That's API SP.
I would rather not test it.
Which translated means you really don’t understand what you were posting about.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
I really wonder how many flat tappet motors are left on the road. If someone has put enough money into an old engine with more spring pressure - they can always buy Amsoil ZRod or >/= from HPL - they feed sprint cars after all …
Red
We got two free oil changes which would be 5w30 Dexos 1 Gen 3 API SP. I sometimes do in between oil changes if it’s convenient and I wanted to stay with the SP additive package that the dealership uses and not jump around with additive chemistry.
I learned not to do that with Duramax engines, the copper would spike in UOAs from the oil coolers with a change in brand and or chemistry.
The 5w30 I bought was D1, gen2 SP, which was a transitional label and sell down of existing stock. The API SP additive package was rolled out ahead of the new Dexos gen3 label. Maybe by a year.
Nevertheless it takes a while to work down a stash of engine oil. and I have no discipline when it comes to finding oil on sale. As a result, I have a five year supply of SP engine oil.
It could be. I looked at the date of my post you’re referring to, June, 2023. The vehicle was purchased at the end of May, 2022.
We got two free oil changes which would be 5w30 Dexos 1 Gen 3 API SP. I sometimes do in between oil changes if it’s convenient and I wanted to stay with the SP additive package that the dealership uses and not jump around with additive chemistry.
I learned not to do that with Duramax engines, the copper would spike in UOAs from the oil coolers with a change in brand and or chemistry.
The 5w30 I bought was D1, gen2 SP, which was a transitional label and sell down of existing stock. The API SP additive package was rolled out ahead of the new Dexos gen3 label. Maybe by a year.
Nevertheless it takes a while to work down a stash of engine oil. and I have no discipline when it comes to finding oil on sale. As a result, I have a five year supply of SP engine oil.
Last edited:
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Three pages long and we still don't know the year, make, model and engine specs for the Thread Starter.
Why is oil specs-strength so important to you?
Heck, I'm the one that should be concerned about this the most.... and I'm not. I drive four banger Hyunkias.
I am perfectly happy using ILSAC / API / GF-6 / SP / Dexos 1.......... etc.....etc.
Why?...... because I've become an anti Carbon Nut Case. Pretty soon I'll be requesting medication for it, sent to me by the oil manufacturer, like a Mail-In Rebate.
Why is oil specs-strength so important to you?
Heck, I'm the one that should be concerned about this the most.... and I'm not. I drive four banger Hyunkias.
I am perfectly happy using ILSAC / API / GF-6 / SP / Dexos 1.......... etc.....etc.
Why?...... because I've become an anti Carbon Nut Case. Pretty soon I'll be requesting medication for it, sent to me by the oil manufacturer, like a Mail-In Rebate.
Last edited:
The Mercedes Benz 229.5x seems to be a very stringent certification for engine wear, sludge, deposits, etc on the Lubrizol site.
https://360.lubrizol.com/Resources/Relative-Performance-Tools
It begs the question: If a $22.98 5 quart jug at Walmart of Quaker State Euro 5W-40 passes the MB 229.5 spec, could it be one of the best oils you can buy at any price.
M1 0w-40 has that spec as well as a plethora of others, currently $24.97 for the 5QT jug at Wally World.
I have it in both the Outback and Equinox currently.
It will be hard (not impossible) to prove any practical benefits compared to competitors within a reasonable OCI, yes.
https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/43674fbe-7210-4efb-b5c2-f8d17f3428b0.pdf
https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-us-mobil-1-fs-0w-40
Any engine with direct cam on bucket (or shim) actuation is essentially like a "flat tappet" design. My 05 Toyota is that design, and there are probably still a few newer engines using that design. Many motorcycle engines use that design. Correct material hardness is also crucial in valve training parts like that to mitigator wear.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
I’m well aware of that.
You don’t have much for spring pressure …
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...ressure-for-older-flat-tappet-engines.339985/
Last edited:
I was around when SJ went away and SL started to take over and engines with flat tappets statred wiping cam lobes. I know all too well what I'm talking about.
Sure, okay. Who could argue with that?
Similar threads
- Locked