What is the Best Oil Filter on the Market?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Cooper
.... Honestly, it really doesn't matter much for most of us as long as the filter media stays intact! Most OTC filters w/ silicone ADBV are on my list of filters I WOULD use. But, that being said, nothing has showed me that there is a reason to sway away from regular Wix or NAPA Gold filters. I will continue using them.


Getting a quality oil filter like NAPA Gold or Fram ToughGuards is too easy to pass up, better filtration, probably less likely to tear (like Purolator tears). Many people don't like settling for second best if they don't have to.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
ANY brand can (and will) have a failure..

Yes, yet consider that we live in the real world where Bayesian Logic rules, not blanket statements like you make.
 
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
dnewton3 said:
.The "best" filter is 10 (ten) bypass filters running concurrent in parallel so that their total flow would suffice for full-flow volume. Now, I'll have to fabricate some type of home-made manifold system to mount those in the trunk and plumb it all the way up to the engine. You know, because cost is no object ...


Or just run microgreenfilter.com, a spin-on parallel filter setup, no mods required.

Also, dnewton3, remember that we often want the best filtration because its cheap and nobody has convinced us that getting more particles out is a bad approach. [/quoteD

CEO of Microgreen is a convicted felon for beating her boyfriend with a tire iron in 2006.
 
Oversized Fram xg 3980 for $5.30 shipped subscribe and save from Amazon. 99% efficient for 15k rated miles plus since oversize. How can you beat that? How is there anything better than that? That's 0.00035 cents per mile of the cleanest oil a spin on filter will give you. Now not everyone can use that particular model but other models are only a few more dollars up to around $9 if you shop right.
 
Originally Posted By: GregGA
CEO of Microgreen is a convicted felon for beating her boyfriend with a tire iron in 2006.

How does a felon become a CEO? Anyway, I'm sure someone at Fram and Purolator has committed a crime or two. Good oil filter anyway.
eek.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Oversized Fram xg 3980 for $5.30 shipped subscribe and save from Amazon. 99% efficient for 15k rated miles plus since oversize.
I think you mean the Fram Ultra Synthetic, as the Fram Extra Guard (XG) is their least filter, and doesn't have the 99%.
 
Originally Posted By: David1
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
What is the efficiency and life span of the Mahle filters? Is it better than 99% @ 20 microns per ISO 4548-12? I don't think I've ever seen it published anywhere.


You really feel that way about MAHLE ???

look at the pics at this one.. Brand new cut open... I was shocked and Im sure you might be.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3385873/%5BCut_Open%5D_-New_Mahle_OC715#Post3385873


DSCN0444_zps92141387.jpg



mocoman70...096547.jpg.html


DSCN0437_zps554c1daf.jpg



Looks much diffrent then the one they open on you tube....
at least the MALHE REPS open on you tube....



That particular example is indicative of the standards that the mexicans think are acceptable. Mainly sold in the US.
Over here we get Austrian built Mahle, far far superior to any cut open filter I've seen pictures of on here. Get yourself an Austrian Mahle and when you get over the shock, and the initial 'honeymoon' period, you'll never buy another fuilter again as long as you live
 
To all -

My point is thus:
You cannot have a sensible and meaningful discussion about ANYTHING without some boundaries to help define the answer.
CAUTION - RANT FORTHCOMING!

To ask what filter is "best", and not describe what the use parameters are, or what you're willing to pay, is just an open-ended silly "what if ..." scenario that has no end or limit. This is a thread that has no real use to anyone other than those who like to banter about their filter-du-jour. There are many good quality filters out there. There are many brands that will suffer occasional quality issues over the lifetime of existence. No one "needs" a silicone ADBV and wire-backed syn media for a 3k mile O/FCI on a clean engine. No one would be sane to run a cheap filter for 15k+ miles in a known sludger.

Originally Posted By: Cooper
What do you feel the is the best constructed filter and why? Every aspect of the filter can be used in your judgement. The only aspect I would like left out is cost. Not looking for the best value.....looking for the best.

Putting Coopers question another way, he wants to know what is "best", but you cannot consider cost and you are not given by any knowledge of how it's to be used or for how long.

I'd like to change my answer; I no longer think the 10-filter bypass set up is the "best".
Instead, I'd like to offer a custom filter with the following criteria:
1) all parts machined, painfully slowly, from billet 304 stainless
2) fitted with -AN connections that are brazed to the base plate and pressure tested to min 2500 PSI and held at that pressure for min 1 minute as measured on an ASTM/ISO certified chronograph device, for "cheap insurance"
3) using aircraft quality Parker Stratosflex Firesleeve hose, rated from -65 to 450F for that extra measure of protection
4) having media so dense, yet uniform, that it can only pass 1gpm at 3um absolute per square foot of surface area
5) having a size large enough that the aforementioned parameter in #4 above still flows a total volume greater than 20gpm for my 5gpm pump; I feel safe using a 4x flow factor but 2x is too little ...
6) utilizing nano-measurement technology to assure that when the canister is attached to the base, the media is "crushed" more than .001" but less than .002", so no pressure spring is required; to much "wavy" is bad but not enough "wavy" could allow a leak ...
7) the media will be "potted" with super-duper mil-spec adhesive to both the canister and base plate, so that no end-caps are present to ever warp, leak or fail
7) having a separeate external bypass valve in the block, so no fear of washed particulate from the media becomes an affront to my engine
8) it will be disposable, because I'll have the canister tig-welded to the base, so no risk exists of an o-ring seal leaking like those pesky spin-on filters


No - wait! I've had an epiphany!
Take the billet stainless filter and put it in line sequentially in front of the aforementioned 10 bypass filters.
Yes - that's my final answer.


My answer is no more silly that any FU, XP, M1 or any other filter you'd discuss, because I'm not bound to the concepts of use and cost any more than you are.



.
 
Last edited:
That's exactly it. If cost is no factor, why bother with any run of the mill, pedestrian, OEM style filtration? At least in my view, things like the Fram grey can (or even the Ultra), the Wix, the Hastings, and Motorcraft all do a pretty fine job, and within that group, I'd buy by price. An extra buck or two won't buy my vehicle any extra life. On the other hand, I'll pay an extra buck or two to save driving across town or to avoid terrible traffic.

The car is to serve me, not the other way around. Should I start it a college fund next?
wink.gif
 
Anyone ever see this......a "rotating warp" when screwing on an oil filter? Best analogy I can think of,is when you're playing a record that has its center hole cut off-center,and it rotates on the turntable in an oblong circle instead of a perfectly centered circle. The one filter I've never seen this happen with is a Fram. They're always centered with perfect precision. And this is going to make my next filter choice a Fram Ultra again. And it's convenient,as I can buy my groceries,oil,and filter all at the same place,without having to go through the hassle of having a clerk dig through their stockroom trying to find one for me,then bringing out one that looks like it's leftover from the 1980s old stock.
 
^^^ I've never seen any oil filter I've used where the center threaded hole is not concentric with the filter assembly. What filters are you seeing that on?
 
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Oversized Fram xg 3980 for $5.30 shipped subscribe and save from Amazon. 99% efficient for 15k rated miles plus since oversize.
I think you mean the Fram Ultra Synthetic, as the Fram Extra Guard (XG) is their least filter, and doesn't have the 99%.


No I had it right. The Fram Ultra prefix is XG because their predecessor was the Xtended Guard and they left it the same when they went from 97% efficient to 99% efficient when they changed the name to Ultra.

The extra guard aka the orange can has a prefix of PH.

The tough guard is the only one that makes sense with the TG prefix.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
To all -

My point is thus:
You cannot have a sensible and meaningful discussion about ANYTHING without some boundaries to help define the answer.
CAUTION - RANT FORTHCOMING!

To ask what filter is "best", and not describe what the use parameters are, or what you're willing to pay, is just an open-ended silly "what if ..." scenario that has no end or limit. This is a thread that has no real use to anyone other than those who like to banter about their filter-du-jour. There are many good quality filters out there. There are many brands that will suffer occasional quality issues over the lifetime of existence. No one "needs" a silicone ADBV and wire-backed syn media for a 3k mile O/FCI on a clean engine. No one would be sane to run a cheap filter for 15k+ miles in a known sludger.

Originally Posted By: Cooper
What do you feel the is the best constructed filter and why? Every aspect of the filter can be used in your judgement. The only aspect I would like left out is cost. Not looking for the best value.....looking for the best.

Putting Coopers question another way, he wants to know what is "best", but you cannot consider cost and you are not given by any knowledge of how it's to be used or for how long.

I'd like to change my answer; I no longer think the 10-filter bypass set up is the "best".
Instead, I'd like to offer a custom filter with the following criteria:
1) all parts machined, painfully slowly, from billet 304 stainless
2) fitted with -AN connections that are brazed to the base plate and pressure tested to min 2500 PSI and held at that pressure for min 1 minute as measured on an ASTM/ISO certified chronograph device, for "cheap insurance"
3) using aircraft quality Parker Stratosflex Firesleeve hose, rated from -65 to 450F for that extra measure of protection
4) having media so dense, yet uniform, that it can only pass 1gpm at 3um absolute per square foot of surface area
5) having a size large enough that the aforementioned parameter in #4 above still flows a total volume greater than 20gpm for my 5gpm pump; I feel safe using a 4x flow factor but 2x is too little ...
6) utilizing nano-measurement technology to assure that when the canister is attached to the base, the media is "crushed" more than .001" but less than .002", so no pressure spring is required; to much "wavy" is bad but not enough "wavy" could allow a leak ...
7) the media will be "potted" with super-duper mil-spec adhesive to both the canister and base plate, so that no end-caps are present to ever warp, leak or fail
7) having a separeate external bypass valve in the block, so no fear of washed particulate from the media becomes an affront to my engine
8) it will be disposable, because I'll have the canister tig-welded to the base, so no risk exists of an o-ring seal leaking like those pesky spin-on filters


No - wait! I've had an epiphany!
Take the billet stainless filter and put it in line sequentially in front of the aforementioned 10 bypass filters.
Yes - that's my final answer.


My answer is no more silly that any FU, XP, M1 or any other filter you'd discuss, because I'm not bound to the concepts of use and cost any more than you are.



.


Odd reply......just sayin'. Kinda going overboard don't you think? Why not just discuss simple construction and efficiency rather than go into this much detail on something that doesn't have anything to do with the original question? The rant is not cool, and it is much more like going off into the deep end....
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
No one would be sane to run a cheap filter for 15k+ miles in a known sludger.

You almost got me, luckily the Lexus LS400 is not a known sludger !

At least once I ran Fram Extra Guard in my LS400 for 1 year 17-18k miles with M1. I also had Pep Boys' ProLine filters for same mileage.
 
Originally Posted By: Cooper
Odd reply......just sayin'. Kinda going overboard don't you think? Why not just discuss simple construction and efficiency rather than go into this much detail on something that doesn't have anything to do with the original question? The rant is not cool, and it is much more like going off into the deep end....

Perhaps "odd" to you, but no more odd or useless than you original question, which was essientially about what filter is "best" but with no known useage or cost constraints.

Your first post was this:
Originally Posted By: Cooper
What do you feel the is the best constructed filter and why? Every aspect of the filter can be used in your judgement. The only aspect I would like left out is cost. Not looking for the best value.....looking for the best.


Let's look closer at what you typed:
1) Every aspect of the filter can be used in your judgement
I spoke to about every aspect of filter construction I can think of
2) Do not consider cost
I find this foolish, as cost is always a factor, but since you ruled it out, I opened up my wish-list and mentally "constructed" the ultimate filter, with cost as no object
3) we can "feel" our way through this
Apparently emotion is free to wander into this topic


Leave an unbounded question lying about, and you'll get an unbounded answer. Sure, I was going overboard, to make a point. I've already stated it several times. This type thread is plain silly, because it's not real-world applicable. So if your question is not based in real world criteria, why should my asnwer be?

But, now that I've used sarcastic examples of extremes, you suddenly want to constrain the topic moreso than your original post. Seems you now want to constrain it to off-the-shelf typical market filters. If that was your true intent, then I must say once again you CANNOT have a SENSIBLE AND CREDIBLE conversation about a filter without including COST and USEAGE parameters. You cannot have your cake and eat it, too.


I judge my products based upon outputs, not inputs; I look at results and only pay passing attention to predictors.
Your question about what is the "best" filter is only looking at the product as it sits in the box on the shelf.
I take a much more pragmatic approach and ask which filter does it's job "best".
I judge a filter to be the "best" when it does these things, in this order:
1) provide filter efficiency sufficient to the OEM design intent, and able to not negatively effect wear rates
2) provide the highest ROI relative to the useage parameters (FCI, genearl engine condition, contaminant intrusion, etc ...)
3) be easily attained from a reputable source

Look - I understand what you were after, but it's not useful debate. If you want specific answers, you have to ask specific questions.
Want to know which brand has the thickest can? Buy a bunch and cut them open and measure them with a micrometer.
Want to know which brand resists rupture with the highest rating? Put a bunch of them through some hydraulic burst testing, or trust their stated ratings.
Want to know which brand has the most pliable ADBV? Cut them out and measure them with a durometer.
Want to know which brand has the most efficient media? Either accept the OEM statements from their marketing web-pages, or pay for your own studies at an independent lab.
Want to know which brand has the least amount of failures? You'll have to commision a third-party study to develop statistical analysis results.


I cannot help it that you started (yet another) open-ended filter debate that has no practical application in the real world; like there aren't enough of those here already? You did a poor job of defining what "best" means, and left the topic wide open. Don't get sanctimonious after the fact. My "overboard" answers were meant to bring to light the haphazard approach in your question and the inapplicability of anyone's answer.

Let me ask you this ... What's the best hunting cartridge?
I'm going to leave out cost as a criterion, but anythying else is open to "feeling".
Would it not be helpful to know what I was hunting? Deer in the woods? Rabbit in the grasslands? Water buffalo on the African plains?
Would it not be helpful to know what distances I was shooting at? 50 yards? 500 yards?
Would it not be helpful to know what firearm I was using? Hand-gun, or rifle or shotgun?
Would it not be helpful to know what legal restrictions are in place? What firearms cannot be used? What components (lead) may be banned?
Do you see you stupid the question is, and how worthless the answers are, if I don't put some reasonable constraints on the topic?

I mean no personal offense to you in this regard. I tire of seeing this kind of useless debate, and it happens often here. You're not the first, and sadly you'll not be the last.

What's wrong with trying to elevate the conversations here from hype and mythology and rhetoric, to actual discussion and presentation of facts that have REAL application?
 
Last edited:
I am not here for the same reasons as you, obviously. I don't need to use micrometers. I don't need to build billet, custom filter housings. I am looking for OPINIONS of what is best and why. Look at the thread reads, the majority of people are here for a similar reason. We ARE looking for the best for our personal vehicles.

You will never be able to "elevate" the conversation past what the majority wants. And, by criticizing the topic and the posters, you are not adding value and elevating the conversation. Not sure how you think being sarcastic and posting as you have has elevated any conversation.
 
I would contend you, and those like you, are looking for a concensus of opinions to self-validate your emotions (feelings). Those whom agree with you are to be considered correct, and those that challenge you are apparently declared to be "odd" for wanting to have a topic involve measurable criteria judged in context.

You have every right to discuss your feelings on filters. But it does not add to the base of knowledge; it only bolsters the ego of those that agree, and perturbs those that don't. There is no substance to a debate without confines. And as much as you are free to start such a debate, I am free to express my "opinion" about why I "feel" this is meaningless banter.


Let me ask you, with cost being no object and no operational bounds set, the following:

What's the best audio stereo speaker?

What's the best tire?

What's the best computer?

What's the best outdoor deck material?

What's the best cut of meat?

What's the best topic to toss about to waste broadband width for useless internet discussion?



I presume we'll agree to disagree?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Cooper
You will never be able to "elevate" the conversation past what the majority wants. And, by criticizing the topic and the posters, you are not adding value and elevating the conversation. Not sure how you think being sarcastic and posting as you have has elevated any conversation.

The bottom line is this - your vehicle almost certainly will last just as long whether you're using the Fram orange can with "cardboard" end caps, a Purolator with a tear in it, a Wix, an AC, a Motorcraft, a Hastings, Fram Ultra, Royal Purple, or whatever. Find something with construction you appreciate and a price you like, and go with it.

The taxis went hundreds of thousands of miles solely on old Wix filters with no ADBV. My LTD went most of its half million kilometers on the AC Delco equivalent of the FL1A, plus the FL1A itself.

I'm not going to say buy the cheapest garbage you can get your hands on, but the practical difference between comparable tier filters isn't that significant.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3


Let me ask you, with cost being no object and no operational bounds set, the following:

What's the best audio stereo speaker?

Pioneer Elite in wall and in ceiling speakers and free standing sub, yes, my opinion and why I own them.

What's the best tire?

Pirelli Cinturato P7

What's the best computer?

MacBook Pro w/ Retina

What's the best outdoor deck material?

treated cedar

What's the best cut of meat?

filet mignon

What's the best topic to toss about to waste broadband width for useless internet discussion?

oil, of course


I presume we'll agree to disagree?


I don't really agree with the sarcasm and insults, no. So, for my part in that, I apologize. But, I do agree it is okay for us to be here for our own reasons and those reasons should not make a difference to others if it is beneficial to the forum.

As for this topic..... Nothing has been said to change my OPINION that Wix is my preferred filter for my apps.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top