What is the absolute best oil filter?

I'd worry more about the air filter. I would take great air filter and a k&n or mobile1 oil filter that does like 30 microns at 96% over a cheap air filter or janky air intake and the best oil filter setup money can buy.
Filtering air and filtering oil are somewhat two different animals, expect for the overlap of where introducing unfiltered air into the cylinders can cause some of that contamination to blow-by the rings and get into the oil. Once that ring blow-by, along with the normal combustion blow-by gets into the oil along with any internal wear contamination, then the only thing left to remove that contamination is the oil filter and/or an oil change. Dirty oil can also cause ring and cylinder wear. Piston rings pretty much live the roughest life in terms of what oil is used, along with what air and oil filters are used. To obtain the least engine wear over long term use, all three needed to be effective in doing their jobs.

Lots of factors are involved, but in a nut shell the longer the OCI the better the oil and filters need to be. Dumping the sump is the only other way to remove contamination from the oil beside filtering it. The dirtier the oil is, and the longer it is circulated over and over through the oiling system will result in more long term engine wear. That's why the longer the OCI is, the more effective a higher efficiency oil filter will be. Of course, using a high efficiency oil filter really doesn't hurt even if the OCI is relatively short, and that's where lots of people will run a high efficiency wire-backed filter for 2 or 3 OCIs to improve the cost "return on investment".
 
What filter on the market today is the best as far as durability, filtering efficiency, and fluid flowability?
Typical BITOG question. Offers no details, and then wants a perfect answer.

Sir - how about putting some effort into this on your end? Maybe mention the application, the planned OCIs and FCIs, any special circumstances, etc?

Or maybe, just maybe, review some of the 500+ other "what's the best filter" threads which already exist here ...
 
View attachment 179394
Use Subscribe and Save (S/S) and then cancel as necessary. I got these on S/S for about $7.20-ish a few months ago so it looks like price dropped a little more. Might not apply to other sizes but, for 7317 size, ultras were cheaper than TG.

Edit: I see the TG is available with S/S for $6.81 on Amazon but I'd pay the extra 16 cents for a nominal 5k more miles, unless I'm missing something about these filters.
1695150872419.jpg

Does a person have to order 5 items to get this 15% discount?
 
Typical BITOG question. Offers no details, and then wants a perfect answer.

Sir - how about putting some effort into this on your end? Maybe mention the application, the planned OCIs and FCIs, any special circumstances, etc?

Or maybe, just maybe, review some of the 500+ other "what's the best filter" threads which already exist here ...
Filters change over time. Old threads are basically useless. There’s value in updating with the latest info.
 
Working for a fleet type maintenance company for 23 years and despite what marketing we believe any filter that doesn't fail is the best filter . Study up on the high mile vehicles we see every posted here once in a while and you will find they are maintained properly running what ever filter and properly rated oil from one of the quality blenders. Prove me wrong.
 
Filtering air and filtering oil are somewhat two different animals, expect for the overlap of where introducing unfiltered air into the cylinders can cause some of that contamination to blow-by the rings and get into the oil. Once that ring blow-by, along with the normal combustion blow-by gets into the oil along with any internal wear contamination, then the only thing left to remove that contamination is the oil filter and/or an oil change. Dirty oil can also cause ring and cylinder wear. Piston rings pretty much live the roughest life in terms of what oil is used, along with what air and oil filters are used. To obtain the least engine wear over long term use, all three needed to be effective in doing their jobs.

Lots of factors are involved, but in a nut shell the longer the OCI the better the oil and filters need to be. Dumping the sump is the only other way to remove contamination from the oil beside filtering it. The dirtier the oil is, and the longer it is circulated over and over through the oiling system will result in more long term engine wear. That's why the longer the OCI is, the more effective a higher efficiency oil filter will be. Of course, using a high efficiency oil filter really doesn't hurt even if the OCI is relatively short, and that's where lots of people will run a high efficiency wire-backed filter for 2 or 3 OCIs to improve the cost "return on investment".
Guaranteed the engine is going to see the most wear that's detrimental to operation at the top of the cylinder bore around the top ring.
I have an old Honda gx390 engine that someone tried to change the air filter on, lost the o-ring that goes under the filter to seal it against the intake then ran it like that for several hundred hours. The rings were incredibly worn and the bore tapered to the point where it was burning as much oil as fuel. The Honda gx390 engines don't have any kind of oil filter, just splash lube.

That tells me the air filter is way more important than the oil filter by quite a bit an ineffective air filter will kill an engine way faster than no oil filter.
I rebuilt that old engine. It just needed new block, new piston, new rod, new rings and seals.
 
Study up on the high mile vehicles we see every posted here once in a while and you will find they are maintained properly running what ever filter and properly rated oil from one of the quality blenders. Prove me wrong.
Can you post up the detailed maintenace records of all these vehicles, showing exactly what oil and filters were used, and every oil change mileage and data?
 
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