What is the absolute best mainstream full synthetic oil?

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I ask because I have a Ford vehicle with the dreaded 3.5 Duratec V6 water pump. I know some may think this is splitting hairs but in my case I beg to differ. Since I got it at just 2,000 miles, I drained the Motorcraft blend at 4,500 miles and put in Supertech Advanced Full Synthetic and was intending to change it every 7,000 miles but have moved down to 6,000.

Thing is, the higher the mileage goes on the car, the more anxious I get about the water pump failing. I'm at 11,800 miles now and I am deciding to go with the best full synthetic here on out there to do everything I can to help the water pump, not just Supertech. Yes, I am also flushing the coolant, I am about to do my first flush and will then do the flush annually for the rest of the car's life.

My understanding is that Mobile One Advanced Full Synthetic is generally considered the best available oil. How true is this? What other oils are better, and by how much and how much do they cost?
Oil won't help the water pump live longer.

As mentioned above, replace the water pump early, on a schedule, to avoid the milkshake.

Or, since you're apparently super worried about it at under 20,000 miles, trade it.
 
Don't let anxiety get the best of you. While there are plenty of claims of the pump failing on people, the sample of those horror stories you hear from is an amplified claim as those folks are Facebook/Internet Forum affluent. Think of the other 75% of 3.5 Cyclone V6 (this engine is technically not a Duratec) that have high mileage candidates who do little to no maintenance.

To be proactive, I would suggest draining every ounce of the Dex-Cool clone Ford/Motorcraft Orange Coolant and switch to the newer Ford Yellow. My '21 F150 has this as it's factory fill and I actually have my '05 Suburban on it. It is a good coolant.

Your oil change frequency and and condition will have no impact on a coolant -> Oil cavity breech. Coolant is the only fluid that can keep the pump and it's containment seals happy. However, I am not saying to completley disregard the oil as quality oil and frequent changes can keep these 3.5 Timing Chains happy.

I would do this:

- Choose a reasonably priced oil, my vote is Mobil 1 5W-20/5W-30 at Walmart. Less than $25-30 for 6 quarts
- Change oil with FL500s every 5k
- Spill and fill of Trans with Mercon LV approved fluid every 20k
- Convert to Ford/MC Yellow coolant
- Drain and fill from Radiator/bottle every 2 years. Buy a Lisle Spill Free funnel

I would greatly expect you to have 100k on an OE pump with good (but not obsessive) maintenance. Perhaps at 100k, have a mecahnic do a pump. Yes it isn't cheap, but budget and plan for it. If you like the car, why not? If you do not neglect the car, I very much so have a hard time seeing the pump failing out of nowhere. It isn't like it's going to puke all of the coolant into the pan when you stop to grab a Slim Jim and can of Fresca at the local Delicatessen.

My Ford dealership is telling me to use the Motorcraft Specialty Green? Is that also Dexcool? Is Supertech Orange Dexcool? Dexcool destroys seals? I've been using Supertech orange for years on all my domestic vehicles, I never paid attention to Dexcool and whatnot but now I'm worried so I am.
 
My choice for the last 50+ yrs. ;)
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My Ford dealership is telling me to use the Motorcraft Specialty Green? Is that also Dexcool? Is Supertech Orange Dexcool? Dexcool destroys seals? I've been using Supertech orange for years on all my domestic vehicles, I never paid attention to Dexcool and whatnot but now I'm worried so I am.
What year is this Taurus? Yes, there was a point where the 3.5 Cyclone was factory filled with Motorcraft Specialty Green which is a dark green color.

I would still drain/flush then fill with Motorcraft Yellow.

Most Orange Domestic coolants are a variant of Dexcool (Dex being a GM moniker).
 
What year is this Taurus? Yes, there was a point where the 3.5 Cyclone was factory filled with Motorcraft Specialty Green which is a dark green color.

I would still drain/flush then fill with Motorcraft Yellow.

Most Orange Domestic coolants are a variant of Dexcool (Dex being a GM moniker).
2018
 
What year is this Taurus? Yes, there was a point where the 3.5 Cyclone was factory filled with Motorcraft Specialty Green which is a dark green color.

I would still drain/flush then fill with Motorcraft Yellow.

Most Orange Domestic coolants are a variant of Dexcool (Dex being a GM moniker).
So, what is the primary difference between Dexcool coolant and I assume a non-Dexcool coolant like the Motorcraft Yellow?
 
My Ford dealership is telling me to use the Motorcraft Specialty Green? Is that also Dexcool? Is Supertech Orange Dexcool? Dexcool destroys seals? I've been using Supertech orange for years on all my domestic vehicles, I never paid attention to Dexcool and whatnot but now I'm worried so I am.
Use the proper coolant as listed in your owner’s manual or as superseded by Ford.
 
The 3.5 Duratec V6 in the Ford Edge and Taurus (and I think Explorer pre 2.3 turbo) runs off the timing chain inside the engine, not outside the engine off the belt. The oil directly lubricates the water pump and touches the outside seals (there are 2 sets of seals on the pump) and the coolant touches the interior seal.

If the water pump fails or leaks, that water goes directly into the oil pan...

The pump has ball bearings that are lubricated by engine oil?
 
Since you have a Duratec engine, you need Dura Lube products. They don't make an oil, so just put in five quarts of any of their treatments.

 
Maybe all the failure of that engine are because of the synthetic oil? Why not try regular walmart Super-tech non-synthetic?

I'm sorry, what? Are you working on your fiction writing skills for the National Enquirer because otherwise, this is one of the most ludicrous posts I've read on here in a while.
 
It sounds to me like If you’re this worried about this engine at 11,800 miles then your oil is not going to matter. I doubt you’re going to get less nervous as the mileage accumulates. Use whatever meets spec and punt the car at 70-100k miles and let the next owner worry about it. It’s a shame I like these motors and the cars they come in but the whole water pump design seems so stupid.
 
I know the Amsoil fanboys will disagree , but if that water pump fails it won't be because you used another top tier oil other than Amsoil .
 
I'd just make sure I used the OEM specified Coolant and change it at the severe service interval. May talk with dealership
and see if there are any coolant updates???

Do you believe the oil has something to do with the water pump?
 
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