What is the absolute best mainstream full synthetic oil?

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Maybe all the failure of that engine are because of the synthetic oil? Why not try regular walmart Super-tech non-synthetic?
 
So the engine oil "actually" lubes the water pump bearings??? How if the bearing is sealed??? Are the bearings lubed with grease when made?
 
For those that don't know, a water pump failure on that engine requires MAJOR
disassembly. Pulling the engine or taking the front of the vehicle off isn't shade tree
procedure.
Many brands have questionable engineering designs that may or may not cause
serious headaches if and when they fail.

My 2¢
I've seen some shops drop the entire cradle.
 
Although the water pump is behind the timing chain cover there is a weep hole on the front side of the block above the alternator to drain water pump seal leakage before it can get into the oil. According to Ford forums there is also a second weep hole in the V of the block although I haven't personally found that one. Keeping an eye for leak trails out the weep holes should help give some peace of mind that there is no coolant leaking into the oil.

Of course if there are leak trails or drops of coolant on the weep holes or you hear a rumbling from the front of the engine indicating impending water pump bearing failure, consider the timebomb to be ticking.
 
You are worrying to much. Many (all?) motorcycles have the same design, the Water Pump is gear driven, because of the compact design of a motorcycle engine.
A friend of mine had a KTM where the waterpump seal leaked, he ended up with creamy oil. He was lucky and noticed it early. He changed the oil and the pump, and it run again flawless.

If you are worried, just check the oil regullary and change the waterpump preventiv every 100.000 Miles.
 
The 3.5 Duratec V6 in the Ford Edge and Taurus (and I think Explorer pre 2.3 turbo) runs off the timing chain inside the engine, not outside the engine off the belt. The oil directly lubricates the water pump and touches the outside seals (there are 2 sets of seals on the pump) and the coolant touches the interior seal.

If the water pump fails or leaks, that water goes directly into the oil pan...
Unfortunately even Redline or Amsoil will fail to lubricate properly if it's mixed with coolant.

I've heard of this engine. What an idiotic design. It's pretty much guaranteed an engine will need a water pump at least once in it's lifetime and this turns a $600 job into a $1000+ job or even a blown engine if you don't catch it in time. BMW level of stupidity right there.
 
Wow! Dont know if its the same design, but i had the internal timing chain / TC driven water pump on a 2000 something 2.7L Chrysler V6 with about 100K on it, and the water pump failed, and ruined the motor because of coolant in the oil.. It was not a great motor to begin with even when new, and also suffered from wide spread sludge issues if you followed the mfg recommendation.

It was too expensive to fix or put another 2.7L V6 in so i sold the mid 2000's Concorde for $500 on craigslist.
 
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I religiously maintenance my vehicles in general, but the Duratec water pump situation makes it worse. Shame because the 3.5 V6 is a really great running engine, at least in a Taurus. Solid power, great fuel efficiency, and that one fatal flaw that drives me nuts! I can't get rid of the car, it's too comfortable and you can't hardly find a V6 anymore. I absolutely will never drive a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder ever again, they're slow and gutless, and I don't trust turbos.
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