What I have learned about oil filtration by reading this forum

Bypass pressure is simply Delta pressure. So what’s going out can’t be different than coming in. If so then it can’t surpass the bypass other wise it opens.
People claim that at start up the bypass opens. I’d like to see these claims as many manufacturers don’t even have a bypass. My Hyundai Elantra. While my Subaru does.
The filter bypass valve can certainly open in cold start-ups. Jim Allen (member here) did some real world testing on his vehicle with pressure gauges mounted. All filters need a bypass valve, either built into the filter, or built into the engine ... otherwise the filter could become damaged if the delta-p becomes too high.
 
Nahh, I only use Purolator, NAPA, or Wix… oops… Maybe Fram, Champ, AC Delco, Super Tech, K&N Select, Luberfiner, or Royal Purple would be better… dang it…
Here's why I buy oil filters made by the supplier to BMW. I'm on several BMW forums. There have been numerous examples of aftermarket filters oil filters coming apart in the oil filter housing pf BMW engines. The price difference between a Mann filter and an aftermarket filter is too small for me to worry about.
 
Why do people always try to make up their own definitions of already established industry definitions? Even though they think they have more logic. 😄

That article clearly explains the difference between OES, OEM and Aftermarket parts. Other similar articles say the same basic thing. Read it a few times and it might become more clear.

Bonus question: When is a part both OES and OEM?
More important than semantic, why does Ford put and excellent filter on from the factory ( Champ?) but you cant get it over the counter.
Same BIG issue with Subaru, Which reminds me I still have a couple days to get a Tokyo Roki here for my wifes new car ...
 
The filter bypass valve can certainly open in cold start-ups. Jim Allen (member here) did some real world testing on his vehicle with pressure gauges mounted. All filters need a bypass valve, either built into the filter, or built into the engine ... otherwise the filter could become damaged if the delta-p becomes too high.
Not really. My Hyundai Elantra like stated requires 5-20 but I use 5-30 here in Florida. With no issues. That filter has no bypass. I usually use Mobil 1 on that vehicle. Yes it concerned me but then I realized majority of folks where putting 300k on those motors with out a miss step. ( before Hyundai/Kia started having power plant issues) currently have 165k on motor. My Subaru is already on its second motor (JDM) granted it was force inducted on a naturally aspirated motor all its life though from 8K miles. Burnt exhaust valve at 131k never used a blue filter after 12k. Likely could have fixed the heads. Bottom end was likely in great shape but EJ253 in jdm trim are cheap and low mileage even if JDM motors likely see less oil changes. Motor runs great. Granted decided not to put supercharger back on but I’ll likely still never see 200k on this low mileage motor either. Can’t beat 800 dollar low mileage long block though 🤣🤣😎😎
 
OK, if Fram Ultra oil filters are no longer the best, then:

1) do Fram Ultra oil filters now have a lower quality than they were?

2) what are the best oil filters now?
It’s not so much which is better. It’s really about who’s kept their RR and QC consistent for so many years.
Supertech filters other than carbon composite center tube and end caps are pretty decent filters. At less than 5 bucks Supertech has really set their standards in QC high. Don’t be surprised if their the first low cost brand to go with POA base oil before the Amazon Oreilly and others.
But motors aren’t cheap so I definitely won’t cheap out on oil brand.
 
It’s not so much which is better. It’s really about who’s kept their RR and QC consistent for so many years.
Supertech filters other than carbon composite center tube and end caps are pretty decent filters. At less than 5 bucks Supertech has really set their standards in QC high. Don’t be surprised if their the first low cost brand to go with POA base oil before the Amazon Oreilly and others.
But motors aren’t cheap so I definitely won’t cheap out on oil brand.
What's a POA base oil?
 
that is a very very nebulous term.
oil use quart/1000miles is still ok, or considered scrap ? where do we draw the line ? :)
With no leaks and from F to L on dipstick which is one quart. I’d look into a catch can and some type of additive to help possible sticking rings and possible oil ring blockage. Or just run Marvel Mystery Oil at every oil change.
 
Not really. My Hyundai Elantra like stated requires 5-20 but I use 5-30 here in Florida. With no issues. That filter has no bypass.
If there is no bypass valve in the filter, then the filter bypass valve must be built into the engine (like a lot of older GM engines have). I doubt Subaru engineers are dumb enough to not have a bypass for the oil filter.

Even in Florida, if the temps get cold and you started the engine and revved near redline shortly after a cold start-up, chances are the filter would hit bypass delta-p levels. 5W is still pretty thick when cold, and if the engine revs are high enough the pump will be putting enough oil volume through the filter to get some high delta-p across the filter.
 
You know, it's more than a little insulting to be told "read it again," as if I was too dumb to get it the first time. I understand it perfectly; I just don't agree with it.

The manufacturers want you to regard the brand name as more important than the actual physical product. This kind of thing is kind of like realtors instructing the world to write REALTOR® in all-caps with the registered trademark symbol every time you mention them. It's good for the manufacturers because it helps build and distinguish their brands, but it's illogical for everyone else to just go along with it when it dilutes what would otherwise be a valuable distinction between aftermarket and original equipment. If you can buy a completely different filter from what the engine was originally equipped with but be obliged to call it Original Equipment, or buy a filter that is totally identical to what the engine was originally equipped with but be obliged to call it aftermarket, based solely on what is written on the can and nothing else, then something is wrong with the way we're using these words. Objecting to that doesn't make me stupid, and I would appreciate it if you would ratchet back the condescension a notch or two.
The good news is that you are not obligated to use OEM filters but if you prefer to do so you can and Witwatersrand it’s not gonna matter. I dunno if the consumer can buy the same filters that ford ins at the factory though. Never quite understood why for does use a different manufacturer for motor craft or vis versa.
LoL, don't get all defensive - I'm not trying to twist your undies. ;) The definitions of OES, OEM and Aftermarket parts are what they are for a reason, and are based on the definitions used by the parts industy. It actually makes more sense than you think. That's why I said read that article again on their examples because I don't think you see the industry's logic. The definitions are actually pretty specific and precise.

If you don't agree and want to make up your own "definitions" then go for it, but you're not speaking technically correct about it. You can't have one same exact part be both OEM and Aftermarket, even if they are the same exact part but with only a diffefent name on them. How would you distinguish between them otherwise? If one filter was branded "Motorcraft" and one branded "Purolator" (both identical otherwise), which one is associated with Ford and consideted the OEM filter? It certainly isn't the one branded "Purolator". You don't go to a Ford dealership and ask for a Ford OEM oil filter and the parts guy brings out a filter branded as "Purolator". By your logic, they could both be sold an OEM or an Aftermarket part, but in reality they can't, even though they are identical inside and only the brand name is different. That's how the parts industry operates.
His “undies” are there for filtration as well. It’s good that you do not intend to twist them.
 
I don't think the eCore center tubes are "carbon composite", but simply high temperature nylon. You got a technical link that says they are "carbon composite" material?
According to Ac delco their glass fillied nylon cores are multiple time stronger than the tin metal cores and allow much better flow potential.
 

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OK, if Fram Ultra oil filters are no longer the best, then:

1) do Fram Ultra oil filters now have a lower quality than they were?

2) what are the best oil filters now?
It is and was always subject to the individuals perception or imagination.
The new fram ultras are no longer full synthetic or wire backed.
They wave all around like the N Atlantic.
Does any of that really matter? Well I have a theory about the potential effects the waviness could have on particle retention.
 
I dunno if the consumer can buy the same filters that ford ins at the factory though.
Nope, consumers can not buy the same oil filters that are installed at the Ford factory. They can only get Motorcraft or Ford Racing branded filters.
 
Does any of that really matter? Well I have a theory about the potential effects the waviness could have on particle retention.
I don't think the theory is valid, because if it was there is no way the new media in the Ultra could still be rated 99+% @ 20 microns per the ISO 4548-12 efficiency testing.
 
According to Ac delco their glass fillied nylon cores are multiple time stronger than the tin metal cores and allow much better flow potential.
Glass and carbon aren't the same thing ... but the eCore cages are mostly high temperature (apparently reinforced) nylon material.
 
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