What do do with 5 quarts of 0W-16?

for those not familiar w/mixing viscosity...

for OP's case:

0w16 m1 afe = 7.6 cst @ 100 C
0w40 m1 Euro = 13.8
5w30 m1 black label = 10.8

using the vscosity calculator:

50% 0w16 and 50% 0w40 = 10.15

30 weight starts at 9.3 and goes to 12.5

job done, unless you want 11-12 cst oil
 
At least with my Rav4 Hybrid --- picked up my vehicle at the dealership on August 16th 2023. At 901 miles I changed out the factory fill and factory oil filter to Mobil One 0W20 Hybrid paired with a Fram TG. At 4903 miles I changed out that oil and filter for Mobil One 0W16 and another Fram TG. My engine is quieter all day with the 0W16. No changes in MPG and oil level is staying on the full mark.
 
If the engine is out of warranty and it's winter time, I would have no problem running 0w16 in something that calls for 0w20.
Well that makes one of us. Why one would do that is a bit of a mystery to me however, other than bragging rights I suppose. A truly minuscule fuel economy increase would be your only benefit. Anything else would be a detriment.
 
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Reminder: Toyota spec 0W-8 for various engines of theirs now too.

We're supposed to wait for hundreds of thousands of engine failures I guess.... 🤷‍♂️🤣
I have a feeling they've bench tested those engines on 0w8 / 0w16 for some hundreds of thousands of hours by now, and also have real world data from cars being driven around with that in their oil sumps. Sure, we can all wait but I'm reasonably sure Toyota already has that information, and moreover has failure rates for these engines figured out to a hair by now.
 
Well that makes one of us. Why one would do that is a bit of a mystery to me however, other than bragging rights I suppose. A truly minuscule fuel economy increase would be your only benefit. Anything else would be a detriment.

I'm not saying I'm going to run out and buy it, as it doesn't make sense considering it costs more than what I'm using now. But if someone was giving it away because they didn't want to use it, I would take it off their hands and not be worried about running it in my Civic, especially since I drive it like a little old lady :LOL:
 
Only use I can think of for it would be to lubricate a lock on a home or garage door (you could save money on buying WD40).
But it would probably fail at that purpose too, as it's too thin to do any kind of lubricating at all.

I like the idea of a previous post to buy some 5W-30 on Amazon of the same brand, and then to start a return saying they sent the wrong viscosity oil to you LOL.
 
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I have a feeling they've bench tested those engines on 0w8 / 0w16 for some hundreds of thousands of hours by now, and also have real world data from cars being driven around with that in their oil sumps. Sure, we can all wait but I'm reasonably sure Toyota already has that information, and moreover has failure rates for these engines figured out to a hair by now.
Let's hope so. But it's unknown. I don't think even Toyota can break the laws of physics and HTHS wear graphs.
 
Let's hope so. But it's unknown. I don't think even Toyota can break the laws of physics and HTHS wear graphs.
It is funny, there's this old thread that went through much the same arguments for 0w20 a good few years back.

 
Add a bottle of Schaefer EP Moly probably be upper xW20 to low xW30 afterwards. Use the viscosity calculator for exact #s.
 
This thread has gone off the tracks.
I have always blended thin oils that I no longer need with thicker oils (of the same brand), to achieve correct viscosity.
The blend in my Signature below is one of many successful examples of myself playing Dr. Joe-Frank for the past 56 years
 
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