What are you working on today?

I'm 82 years old and have been changing my own oil and filter for over 50 years, with only one exception. That exception was once when I was being treated for cancer and went to a quick oil change joints.

I'm feeling better now and it was again time for an oil change. Out with the jack, wrenches and drain pan and "holy guacamole", I can't get the drain plug out. The incompetent low-life at the quick change joint must have put the plug back in with a torque wrench. I tried a long box wrench and still couldn't break it loose. Finally it took a breaker bar and almost every ounce of strength to break the plug loose. I won't even bother to go into what it took to get the filter off.

What does it take these days to get things done right~?
 
I'm 82 years old and have been changing my own oil and filter for over 50 years, with only one exception. That exception was once when I was being treated for cancer and went to a quick oil change joints.

I'm feeling better now and it was again time for an oil change. Out with the jack, wrenches and drain pan and "holy guacamole", I can't get the drain plug out. The incompetent low-life at the quick change joint must have put the plug back in with a torque wrench. I tried a long box wrench and still couldn't break it loose. Finally it took a breaker bar and almost every ounce of strength to break the plug loose. I won't even bother to go into what it took to get the filter off.

What does it take these days to get things done right~?
He probably used an impact gun!
 
The Boxster has had Mobil1 5w-50 since I've had her. I decided to switch both Porsche's to Redline 10w-50 and there is a noticeable reduction in engine noise, even at operating temps. A section of our drive is narrow with walls and you get accustomed to the sound (w/ my old fleet I am usually listening for knocks, rattles and something falling off), and realized a significant reduction in engine noise returning from the after-oil change drive... Interesting, I had read about Mobil being a bit louder, but never actually experienced it. Cannot say if it actually matters, but certainly noticeable.
Yes! I don't or didnt quite want to believe it myself, but.. for as much as you get ridiculed (by usually the same people, since poster personalities seem to want to be relevant again after great lengths to quiet that noise, as it should be. Now no more comment there) - by posters when you say something like "My engine seems quieter!" Or "Smoother and I can tell a difference" - again, in my humble and probably unscientific opinion, it just seems like an engine, full of various metals, may transmit its metallurgical vibrations and rotations differently through a different mass of fully-formulated motor oil that may result in smoother and quieter.. much like "soft" metal is used on impact sockets and "hard" on non-impact, since an impact will shatter hard metal/chrome (although engines aren't impact wrenches.) Also noticeable, MANY say regular conventional oil defies logic and "quiets" piston slap.. well I look to the Group Vs with the Group V and other things mixed in (HPL, Redline, etc) for an alternate solution if your engine sounds drive you insane. Clean and superior oil is a great place to start..

He probably used an impact gun!
Posted while I was replying @JC1 but yup probably grabbed the 3/8" impact.. although the larger 1/2" drive is possible.. hopefully someone told them about the oil pan being more fragile in its material and thread. Never seems to stop them though.

I agree. The things you have to do to get those bolts out.......... sheesh.
 
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I'm 82 years old and have been changing my own oil and filter for over 50 years, with only one exception. That exception was once when I was being treated for cancer and went to a quick oil change joints.

I'm feeling better now and it was again time for an oil change. Out with the jack, wrenches and drain pan and "holy guacamole", I can't get the drain plug out. The incompetent low-life at the quick change joint must have put the plug back in with a torque wrench. I tried a long box wrench and still couldn't break it loose. Finally it took a breaker bar and almost every ounce of strength to break the plug loose. I won't even bother to go into what it took to get the filter off.

What does it take these days to get things done right~?

It's widespread . :(
 
Nothing automotive as it's getting pretty darn cold outside...

So I ran some wire today instead...

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It's that time of the year for doing inside projects. A lot of painting to do this winter as I haven't really done in since moving in earlier this year... The walls and ceiling are supposed to be almost white, but are a shade of Winston 100's... :sick:
 
Snapped Check Valve.jpg


Brand new check valve on the sump pump snapped during a rain storm. Fortunately, I was home and heard the 15 gallons of water being pumped onto my basement floor instead of outside. A full minute before the Ring water alarm went off. The plastic male adapter snapped below the valve.


Automotive related:

2014 Ford Escape - new water pump (and coolant), oil & filter change, spark plugs, tire rotation, and wiper blades.

Here's a picture of the water pump right after it blew while my wife was on her way home. Fortunately it wasn't far from home when it went.

Water Pump Above.jpg

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The incompetent low-life at the quick change joint must have put the plug back in with a torque wrench. I tried a long box wrench and still couldn't break it loose. Finally it took a breaker bar and almost every ounce of strength to break the plug loose. I won't even bother to go into what it took to get the filter off.
Why does that sound like the right thing to do?

...as long as you set the correct torque, and don't misuse a torque wrench as a breaker bar

I agree with you, I've lowered my standards significantly and I'm still disappointed 😞
 
Got back from a trip yesterday afternoon. Got unpacked, got a shower, then started a small fire in the fireplace as it's cold as a vampire's demeanor back home. Today I'm back to turning wrenches.
 
Monday
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6 V6, oil cooler replacement
2002 Ford Ranger 2wd, replaced upper control arms and repacked front wheel bearings
 
First day back after being out sick since last Wednesday (I did tough out 3/4 a shift last Friday).

Due to a scheduling error, I was facing a week of nonsense unless I buckled down and focused, so that's what I did. Knocked out rear pads and rotors on an '04 4Runner along with a 5 tire rotate, did a couple diag's, and knocked out a clutch in an '04 Corolla all between 8 and 5. I did have one subframe bolt break on the Corolla, however I got lucky as the bolt broke leaving about 1/4" sticking out. A few minutes with an induction heater and a twist socket and it came right out.

Tomorrow I start on timing chains on a 2.4 Sonata (non-GDI). 217k miles, the chain stretched ~2.5 teeth. Luckily, the only issue was an extended crank and a P0340 code. It will also be getting a crank seal, oil pan reseal, and valve cover gasket.
 
Traveled up to Chicago from SW Missouri yesterday, looked at a fleet of trucks and trailers that are on a retirement sale. Was hoping to drive home this evening but with not being familiar with the area and a small possibility of snow I decided against it. I love driving at night but astigmatism doesn't.
 

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Dealt with "supply chain issues" all weekend trying to get a GM 6.0L back up & running. It's a high mileage engine (340,000) that's had 2 oil pumps thrown at it for low hot oil pressure issues.

Of coarse the Cam Bearings were pretty much wiped out, Cam bearings should be easy to obtain right? WRONG.....2004 & up LS engine take different bearings than '97-'03 engines which are referred to as 2nd Design. Nobody had a set nor could get a set. Not even my Machine Shop!

Had to use OE which are not sold as a set, But individually. Found one position #1/#5 at my local dealer, Another position #1/#5 bearing at a Cadillac dealer in East Dallas.....Thankfully Summit Racing had Two position #2/#4 bearings & a position #3 bearing in stock.

Saturday......Drove a little over 80 miles & spent 6 hours total between tracking them down, Waiting on the Will Call at the Cadillac Dealer & driving.

Turns out the "OE" bearing are updated Wide PTFE coated 1-piece made by DuraBond. If DuraBond is making all GM's cam bearings.....No wonder they can't keep up with aftermarket demand??

Anyway.....Here's the bearings side by side, The Wide DuraBond makes use of the entire cam journal which should provide better support & longer life, Not that 300,000+ miles is a short life span.

Engine is getting new Mains, Rods, Rings, Timing Set, Lifters, Lifter Trays, Standard Pressure Oil Pump, Deck the heads, New valve Springs, Valve Guides & Seals, And a Valve Job.

Sunday.......Got the Cam Bearings installed, Cam installed, Mains measured & installed along with the Crank.....Measured Thrust & it came within spec.

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Monday/Today.....

I try not to do critical engine work with the phone ringing every 5 seconds, So I focused on a engine job on a 2009 GMC Yukon.

Wreaking yards want $3000 & up for a lower mileage (100,000 mile) AFM 5.3L, NO WAY I'm giving that for a 90 day warranty that's likely not worth the paper it's written on!

I knew where a wreaked 2013 GMC Yukon was, At a neighbors house down the street. It had been sitting in his garage for every bit of 8 years! I ask him about it every year or two & has the same ole story.....I'm going to put the engine in something....Yeah right :rolleyes:
Being close to the holidays & property tax due date looming.....Couldn't be a better time to ask about it again!
Got it bought for $2,000 with 28,000 miles on the clock. Injectors where stuck solid & the fuel tank was full of rotten fuel. Took my Injector Cleaning pressure vessel filled with 50% gasoline & 50% Top Engine Cleaner, An air tank, And a fresh battery. Had to tap on a few Injectors with a long screwdriver....But she eventually popped off & cleared up. Drove it to the shop with a bent drive shaft, 2 flats & all @ about 2 MPH.

Pretty good deal.....Sold the Engine for $3,000 & get to keep the 6L80E, Engine Harness, ECM, BCM, Radiator & Fans, Catalytic Converters, Steering Column, And Steering Rack.
Got the carcass sold for $300 (Front Facia, Headlights, Both passenger side doors & Fender)....I know this stuff goes for more, But I need it gone!

This all transpired last week, But the engines were ready to pull on both trucks today....Me & my Tech made quick work of it & had the '09 Yukon ready to deliver by quitting time.

The '13 5.3L has VVT & the '09 5.3L didn't. I downloaded the '13 Yukon calibration before tearing it down. I Copy & Pasted all the VVT enable tables over to the '09 ECM via HP-Tuners AFTER updating the ECM & TCM with GM SPS2.
I also disabled the AFM & installed a good TCC tune in the TCM. Will advice the owner to NOT have the ECM or TCM flashed & undo all my work!

Did have to fabricate a CMP/VVT Solenoid patch harness to add the VVT Solenoid circuits. While leaving the option to convert back to a Non-VVT engine in the future.

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Monday/Today.....
{snip}
Drove it to the shop with a bent drive shaft, 2 flats & all @ about 2 MPH.
A couple years ago that might have appeared odd. Today people don't bat an eye, figuring either you can't afford to fix it or you're stealing it....but no point in calling the cops 'cause they won't do anything anyway
 
Tuesday
2005 Chevrolet Equinox 3.4 V6
Timing cover gasket replacement, also flushed radiator and block while it was apart
 
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