What are we using for chain lube?

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Depends on how much you ride and if you even ride a bike with a chain. I ride about 300-400 miles a week and have to do chain maintenance each and every week. To me it is a pain and the holy grail so to say of chain lubes is something that doesn't sling AND offers great protection which with most products seems to be an either or prospect.

Just my 2 cents.

Bob
 
It is a long thread but the worst that results from that is you have to pass over the thread rather than read it. The best that can result is that many of us may find better solutions to good chain lubrication that those we're presently using. I usually benefit from chain lube threads here as opposed to those elsewhere due to more content and less "mine's better than your's".
 
TxRider,

Agreed. But while we're on the subject, what is everybody using for chainlube?

Just wondering.

grin.gif
 
If you use a grease use one that 'bleeds', like the red Mobil 1 grease at auto stores. Otherwise a synthetic gear oil, again like Mobil 1, 75W90 or better yet 75W140, will work well although it'll be messy.

Greasing a manual gearbox or axle won't work very well, nor will a dry lube, and a chain and sprocket can generate loads like gears in a tranny or axle. High quality gear oil seems to work well in gear boxes and axles.
 
I'm using only some 10w40 elf motoroil (seems to have a very strong Detergent additive pack), I apply it after every 1 or 2 runs when chain (with O-rings) is still warm... it cleans and lubricates very fine for me.
 
ftm,
I am simply presenting a new (not reallly new, but only recently picking up popularity) way to look at chain lubrication.
If you think what I'm providing on dry-films isn't a new thing in chain specific lubricants, just go to the store...any store...and pick up a bottle of moly-rich dry-film.
What...can't find it?

No, you probably didn't find it...that is because chain lubes have remained in the 1960's.
And while industry figured out that there was a problem with conventional chain lubrication methods and products, motorsports remained in the dark ages on the topic.
And for the most part, are still in the dark.
It's obvious, since I see so many folks still batteling thick, gooey, crappy lubes that make more of a mess than they do protect the chain from wear.

Sure, we could probably have a one or two page thread that has everyone posting their favorite chain lube...that would really be productive, wouldn't it?

"My crappy, gooey lube is way better than yours"!

"I use Dr. Zoogs chain goo because my buddy, who is a knarly A rider and has tats from top-to-bottom, told me it is the shizbit...and just trust me when I tell you that this guy knows all the good stuff"!

"This guy is full of crap...if the lube he is touting was any good at all, it would be on the front page of Motocross Action Magazine...and we all know they are the say-all of technical expertise in the motorsports industry..just ask them"!

"I use used 90wt and have NEVER had one chain problem. It wears out, makes some noise for a month or two, snaps and then I change it...no problems".


Now...do you have anything productive to add, fuel tanker man, or should we simply stop discussing such a topic so you won't be so distracted?

If it's OK with you to continue...I'd like to add one more thing...
A roller chain is a poor place to accomplish effective fluid film type lubrication. Just the construction of a chain alone makes it hard to keep fluid film lubrication replentished and performing. BUT...a roller chain is a great place to practice barrier lubrication. And dry-films do just that.
The ease of cleaning and application, as well as longevity, are added benefits of dry-films.
 
I'll leave you guys alone and let you talk about chain lube.
smile.gif


As entertaining as this forum can sometimes be, I've found senses of humor can be few and far between...
frown.gif


Dan
 
Sorry for not realizing you are here for comedy.
It's obvious, as you have five posts in this thread and have offered absolutely nothing, except for commenting on how long the thread is.

I guess I was mistaken thinking most folks were here to learn and discuss tribological issues.
(shrug)

But...just like fuel tanker man poo-poos this subject (eluding that it is of little importance), so do most motorcycle riders these days. No wonder chain lubrication knowledge in motorsports is still in the dark ages.

So many advances have been made in lubrication fluids in just the past 6-8 years that it has completely changed the way (knowledgable) folks look at oil and it's applications. Surely we can see that there are other impotant issues concerning lubricants that do not deal with ad infinitum analysis and discussion of UOA's?

Again, pardon my lack of realizing levity when I see it.
BUT...I think there is more to your posts than simple comedy...I think you feel these issues are of little importance. That's the take I get from your continuing comedic routine. (shrug) But then... I've been wrong before.
smile.gif


And yes, I am biased concerning this issue...and I know there is no bias' allowed in here! (LOL...major eyeroll)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jaybird:
ftm,
And for the most part, are still in the dark.
It's obvious, since I see so many folks still batteling thick, gooey, crappy lubes that make more of a mess than they do protect the chain from wear.


I've been reading this thread because I hate the chore of cleaning/lubing my chain and although it sucks, I don't want it to wear out too quickly and have to pay the $$$$ to replace the chain/sprockets.

I have probably 6-7 different brands of chain lubes out in the shed and the one I've been trying most recently is the PJ1 Black. This stuff is the thickest gooeyest chain lube I have ever tried. It flings off pretty bad but I figured I'd try it after reading that it had placed first in a Motorcycle Consumer News test of chain lubes....

1. PJ1 Chain Lube (black) (MCN Best Buy)
Total Score 25.0
Initial Rolling Resistance = 4.0
Post Rolling Resistance = 5.0
Sling Off = 3.0
Corrosion Resistance = 5.0
Grit Resistance = 3.0
Value = 5.0
Cost per ounce = $0.42
Observations: Dark blackish/purple slightly foamy spray. Dries to thick black liquid that feels very tacky. Best in group in corrosion reisitance and in reducing rolling resistance. A long-time leader in chain lube technology.

This test was done in September 2001 but they don't do a lot of chain lube tests in magazines these days either.
 
I wouldn't put too much trust in that test along with all magazine tests that base results on subjective scores. Just look how skewed the point system is. Why does rolling resistance need a pre and post score anyway? The chain heats up to operating temp within minutes at a decent pace. The value score also says nothing about performance, just tells us it's the cheapest stuff out there marketed as a chainlube. Poor grit resistance means bad gunking making relube an increasingly futile attempt every subsequent time. The grit embedded gunk becomes a grinding paste for the sprockets.

You're better off with an oil brush and some gear oil if you can put up with the mess that is PJ1. Otherwise, try some of the stuff like Maxima ChainWax or Belray Superclean and see why everyone is recommending these. I personally think Maxima makes a great product without equivalent, and I've tried alot of the other good stuff out there by Motul and Motorex.
 
I thought this thread has gone along pretty well. A little comedy relief and bias is just fine.

It all comes down to personal experience.

We know cleaning the chain often is important. Everyone seems to be in agreement that kerosene, diesel fuel, wd-40, and specific chain clean products are fine.

Its the lube part that has everyone in a tizzy. I think alot has to do with your riding, weather conditions, and maintenance schedule. The best thing to do is try a variety of products and use what works best for you. There are just too many variables to say one product works best for everyone.

I know what is working for me and I'm happy. I expect to get record service out of my chains because of my maintenance habits and products I have found to work.
 
"I use Dr. Zoogs chain goo because my buddy, who is a knarly A rider and has tats from top-to-bottom, told me it is the shizbit...and just trust me when I tell you that this guy knows all the good stuff"!

somehow you knew the exact way i choose my chainlube!
cheers.gif


at work I have been using "champions choice" chain lube on slow moving industrial chain drives. I like it because it will stay wet for 3 months even when caked with wood dust. I have not found a chain lube that dries completely.

on my dirtbike's x-ring chain (OEM) I have been using break-free clp. I know it's not a chain lube but with 3000 miles on a 400cc thumper it shows very little wear or "stretch" and it doesn't get "dirty".

I'd really like to know a brand name of chain lube you reccommend since it appears you have an educated opinion on them.

As much as I enjoy this site I have found there is a large pool of knowledge in the majority of automotive (and off-topic) area, but when you get away from that area, you get much less in depth discussions and alot more opinions. the MC area is prime example and the industrial lube area is very slow moving. I think it is just that the majority of people here are interested in cars because everybody has them. most folks could care less which AGMA grade oil goes in a right angle worm gear 1:4 speed reducer running in the vertical position with an ambient temp of 90*f.
 
quote:

Originally posted by rokky:
I thought this thread has gone along pretty well. A little comedy relief and bias is just fine.

It all comes down to personal experience.

We know cleaning the chain often is important. Everyone seems to be in agreement that kerosene, diesel fuel, wd-40, and specific chain clean products are fine.


Hardly everyone. Those of us astute enough to use a Scottoiler never have to clean our chains. The 1 drop per minute of lube while the engine is running produces a small amount of fling that takes all the crud with it and leaves the chain lubed and clean while at least doubling chain life. The fling from a Socttoiled chain requirews less time to clean off than it does to clean and lube a chain with the convention a witches brews in aerosol cans. A 2k mile high speed trip with a total of 5 minutes chain maintenance and no chain adjustment requirewd at the end of the trip is the norm with a Scottoiler, not the exception.

Disclaimers:

I have no connection with Scottoiler, they are just a good product.

I also no longer ride a motorcycle. My reactions were getting a bit slow with age to ride a real motorcycle, so it was either get a Harley or a Corvette. I choose a Corvette. More performance and you don't have to wear a uniform.
 
tom,
My partner and I mfg and sell chain lube.
We are not sponsors here, so recommending our products would be blatent spam. I won't go there.

One thing I can tell you is, industry has caught on to the chain lube thing. You won't find any of the major mfg's using anything but dry-film type lubricants on their chains...especially ones that are overhead, or in contamination prone area's.
Powder coaters, and other painting and finishing shops, KNOW that dry-films are the only products that can be used and enjoy a chain that is both efffectively lubricated, has no drips from excess lube, and collects no extra contamination.

Those folks in the motorsports industry are cathcing on...but very slowly.

I deal with folks on lubrication issues each and every day. I often hear: "The chain isn't wet, so it needs to be lubed".
First off...therer ARE fluids that dry to almost completely dry.
Secondly, I have yet to find any part of a chain, that carries friction load, that I can see with my eyes. The friction points are not visible. Just because the outside of the chain parts is wet, how do you know the friction area is being protected from wear?
Oh, and when you find a lube that continues to provide effective fluid film protection for a chain, for a period of three months...let me know. I'll help with the patent!
 
jaybird,
so what do you think of the lube that is INSIDE the rollers on say a DID X-ring chain?

would using a ptfe spray on dry film lube be a good choice for the outside (what i can see) of the chain?

how do you prevent corrision on the outside (hopefully the x-rings protect the inside)?


p.s. currently use a did x-ring and after washing i use wd40 to prevent rust. that's it. typically lasts an entire year of offroad racing.
 
quote:

Originally posted by XS650:

I also no longer ride a motorcycle. My reactions were getting a bit slow with age to ride a real motorcycle, so it was either get a Harley or a Corvette. I choose a Corvette. More performance and you don't have to wear a uniform. [/QB]

El wrongo.
tongue.gif


The Corvette does have an official uniform: Polyester shirt (Hawaiian pattern preferred) unbuttoned at least half way down. Three or more large gold chains are mandatory. Pants optional, but tassled loafers and argyle socks a must.
grin.gif


Dan
 
quote:

Originally posted by sunruh:
jaybird,
so what do you think of the lube that is INSIDE the rollers on say a DID X-ring chain?

would using a ptfe spray on dry film lube be a good choice for the outside (what i can see) of the chain?

how do you prevent corrision on the outside (hopefully the x-rings protect the inside)?


p.s. currently use a did x-ring and after washing i use wd40 to prevent rust. that's it. typically lasts an entire year of offroad racing.


sunruh,
Ring chains often times use grease for the internal lubricant. Grease is nothing but oil (and hopefully some good barrier adds) whipped together with a soap base to keep it together.

If you look at a worn chain pin, you will notice that only one section of the pin is actually worn. That would be the part that rubs against the bushing. The internal grease must keep this area lubricated.
In time...the protection provided by the grease becomes depleted, and wear begins. The oil, will eventually seep out of suspension from the soap base and can, in theory, continue to protect...as long as it get to the friction point.

IMO, a better choice for a ring chain internal fill is oil. No soap base to take up valuable area. ALL OIL. This alone would, in theory, protect the friction surface longer than the grease could.
There is also no worry about the oil being consumed and leaving nothing but gooey soap base.
The oil should keep protecting as long as there is centrifigul force to keep slinging the oil to the friction point.
I know there are reportedly some chain mfg's using oil instead of grease..but to be honest, I have no idea who these mfg's are. Haven't seen a chain that uses oil instead of grease, but I have heard of it being done. Keep in mind that even if the chain uses oil instead of greae, it is still has a finite lifespan.

Using a water dispersant after washing the chain is usually a good idea, to both drive water out, and to coat the surface, protecting from external corrosion.
PFTE (Teflon)is a polar solid that will adhere to the asperities of the metal surface, which can take up room that corrosion could take place. However, I find that by simply using a dry-film with moly is a better choice. Not only will the solvent carrier act as a water dispersant and drive out water, it will deposit moly, which does a better job at anti-corrosion than PTFE. (from my tests, moly lasts [stays adhered to the asperities]longer than teflon and can carry a greater shock load)

What you are missing when you use nothing but WD-40, is any sort of effective protection from friction. WD-40 may provide a bit of protection by a simple silicon coating, but it is hardly sufficient for lubricating a chain...any chain.
It is simply NOT an acceptable chain lubricant.
What you are doing is letting the rollers wear against the bushings, and at a different rate of wear than the internal parts.
If you use something to help protect the outside of the chain from corrosion, use something that will also lubricate the roller/bushing area, as well as fotify the rings. WD-40 does neither.

And yes, a year seems to be the norm for ring chains. They will last just about anyone who takes even the least bit of care of them, for about a year of hard riding.
BUT...just for comparison...I had a non-ring chain on a 125sx that saw many practice motos, several races, quite a few woods rides, and one arenacross, and was less than 1.5% elongation in 3 years time!

It is a fact that a ring chain has a FINITE lifespan. It can only survive for so long, no matter what you do or how good of care you take of it. Once the factory proviuded lubricant has been depleted, the chain will grow very fast from internal wear. You can't stop it, nor can you replentish the lubricant. It is a dying animal.
The non-ring chain, on the other hand, can very much outlast a ring chain, due to the fact that it can be maintained far past what you can maintain a ring chain.
I know this goes against conventionl wisdom about chains, but the public isn't really doing things properly for the most part. Like I stated earlier, chain lubrication in motorsports is still in the dark ages.
 
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