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UPDATE: I'm good now. Scored two Dupont Blue Cans from Ace Hardware online: free ship-to-store pickup.
Readily available chain lube ?
- Thread starter LoneRanger
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Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
UPDATE: I'm good now. Scored two Dupont Blue Cans from Ace Hardware online: free ship-to-store pickup.
Is it the old wax formula or the new semi solid formula?
UPDATE: I'm good now. Scored two Dupont Blue Cans from Ace Hardware online: free ship-to-store pickup.
Is it the old wax formula or the new semi solid formula?
If you want a dry Lube PTFE chain spray, you should also have a look at this one:
http://wackchem.com/detail/index/sArticle/83
Famous as best manufacturer here in Germany for chain lubes and allways test winner.
And while you are shopping, look at "Sauber Sepp"
(English: Clean Joe)
http://wackchem.com/products/motorcycle-care/81/s100-sauber-sepp-new
http://wackchem.com/detail/index/sArticle/83
Famous as best manufacturer here in Germany for chain lubes and allways test winner.
And while you are shopping, look at "Sauber Sepp"
http://wackchem.com/products/motorcycle-care/81/s100-sauber-sepp-new
How's this DuPont stuff do protecting the chain agains rust?
Wife and I are doing a cross country trip next year and I'd really like to learn which product is best when considering:
1. Protection against corrosion. I ride in the rain quite a bit. This is a must.
2. Ease of cleanup and longevity.
3. Actually protecting the chain.
The best I've found is Ansoil's Heavy Duty metal protector. Apply it to a hot/dry chain and it stays clean longer, inhibits corrosion, and seems to protect the chain just fine. I had 13,500 hard miles on my Ducati before selling it and chain and sprockets showed no signs of degradation.
Worst stuff has been either white lithium grease or a motul spray product that I swear you could combine with dirt and make bricks.
1. Protection against corrosion. I ride in the rain quite a bit. This is a must.
2. Ease of cleanup and longevity.
3. Actually protecting the chain.
The best I've found is Ansoil's Heavy Duty metal protector. Apply it to a hot/dry chain and it stays clean longer, inhibits corrosion, and seems to protect the chain just fine. I had 13,500 hard miles on my Ducati before selling it and chain and sprockets showed no signs of degradation.
Worst stuff has been either white lithium grease or a motul spray product that I swear you could combine with dirt and make bricks.
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
I'd go further, and say any chain that stays clean is probably under-lubricated too (though this'll matter less with an O-ring chain and may not be such an issue with them).
Honda, and engineering textbooks I've seen, all recommend oil over wax-type products, despite its tendency to attract/retain dirt.
Little and often reduces the mess and improves the lubrication, so a chain oiler can be useful.
I'd go further, and say any chain that stays clean is probably under-lubricated too (though this'll matter less with an O-ring chain and may not be such an issue with them).
Honda, and engineering textbooks I've seen, all recommend oil over wax-type products, despite its tendency to attract/retain dirt.
Little and often reduces the mess and improves the lubrication, so a chain oiler can be useful.
Originally Posted By: webfors
[
No amount of lube is going to protect your sprockets, after a few miles the the pressure contact points have little lube film.
Most commercial chain oilers, and my improvised ones, deliver the oil onto the sprocket(s), from where it is spun out to the teeth and chain centrifugally. This should tend to maintain sprocket protection.
[
No amount of lube is going to protect your sprockets, after a few miles the the pressure contact points have little lube film.
Most commercial chain oilers, and my improvised ones, deliver the oil onto the sprocket(s), from where it is spun out to the teeth and chain centrifugally. This should tend to maintain sprocket protection.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
You hardly ever see that even here, and Taiwanese are less-than-Germanic in their attitude to vehicle maintenance.
(Its probably not a cultural accident that BMW's are not chain drive. All that sand on all those moving parts? Germans probably just can't stand it.)
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
You hardly ever see that even here, and Taiwanese are less-than-Germanic in their attitude to vehicle maintenance.
(Its probably not a cultural accident that BMW's are not chain drive. All that sand on all those moving parts? Germans probably just can't stand it.)
Last edited:
No kidding eh? The question is how does a dry lubricant with no oil in it prevent rusting?
I think that should be simple enough.
I think that should be simple enough.
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
No kidding eh? The question is how does a dry lubricant with no oil in it prevent rusting?
I think that should be simple enough.
Probably the same way it lubricates:
Badly.
Simple enough, as you say.
No kidding eh? The question is how does a dry lubricant with no oil in it prevent rusting?
I think that should be simple enough.
Probably the same way it lubricates:
Badly.
Simple enough, as you say.
If that's the priority, and you have time to let it set, you could paint the chain with a thin coat of vegetable oil, (maybe linseed) not as a LUBRICANT (its a good one, but would clag-up your chain horribly if you kept applying it) but as a PAINT.
Once semi-solid, this'll stick to the metal like glue, helping protect it from rust. You could then apply your pseudo-lubricant of choice over the top of it.
Or soya long oil alkyd resin, as in Penetrol
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php
Or you could try some of that Fluid Film stuff I keep hearing about, though this probably won't set and may fling off.
I've only tried the first one.
Once semi-solid, this'll stick to the metal like glue, helping protect it from rust. You could then apply your pseudo-lubricant of choice over the top of it.
Or soya long oil alkyd resin, as in Penetrol
http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php
Or you could try some of that Fluid Film stuff I keep hearing about, though this probably won't set and may fling off.
I've only tried the first one.
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
No kidding eh? The question is how does a dry lubricant with no oil in it prevent rusting?
I think that should be simple enough.
Its "dry" in the same sense of chain waxes.... as it leaves behind a thin, non-tacky layer containing PTFE. Oil doesn't prevent rust per se... it just creates a barrier to air and moisture. Just like a dried layer of wax or those PTFE lubes.
No kidding eh? The question is how does a dry lubricant with no oil in it prevent rusting?
I think that should be simple enough.
Its "dry" in the same sense of chain waxes.... as it leaves behind a thin, non-tacky layer containing PTFE. Oil doesn't prevent rust per se... it just creates a barrier to air and moisture. Just like a dried layer of wax or those PTFE lubes.
A little bit Offtopic, but me and all my friends here in germany are using ordinary white grease type chain Lube.
Like this:
http://wackchem.com/products/motorcycle-care/23/s100-white-chain-spray
Or Motul, Castrol.. you name it.
Yes, it gets dirty. But who cares? If i lube the chain i clean it before and remove the old an dirty chain lube before i apply the new grease.
Usually we get more than 20.000 Km out of a chain set. Sport bikes, GSXR and so, driven hard, without speed limit.
The PTFE-Dry lubes have a bad reputaion here in Germany, 50% of the users are very dissapointed, 50% love it, according to german Internetforums.
I never used a PTFE dry lube. White Chain grease works well for me for over 20 years, why risk?
Just my 2 cents.
Like this:
http://wackchem.com/products/motorcycle-care/23/s100-white-chain-spray
Or Motul, Castrol.. you name it.
Yes, it gets dirty. But who cares? If i lube the chain i clean it before and remove the old an dirty chain lube before i apply the new grease.
Usually we get more than 20.000 Km out of a chain set. Sport bikes, GSXR and so, driven hard, without speed limit.
The PTFE-Dry lubes have a bad reputaion here in Germany, 50% of the users are very dissapointed, 50% love it, according to german Internetforums.
I never used a PTFE dry lube. White Chain grease works well for me for over 20 years, why risk?
Just my 2 cents.
20k kilometers is not all that impressive. Many people get that in miles with the wax types.
It's a barrier that water from rain etc doesn't penetrate, like paint, and does prevent rust just like a locked door prevents entry. If this stuff presents another barrier that water in the form of rain, or other low pressure source, I'm interested.
It's s requirement just like the other things I listed.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
20k kilometers is not all that impressive. Many people get that in miles with the wax types.
His use and application are harder on chains and sprockets, too. Lots of high-speed running on a high-powered bike, wears out the chain and sprockets, sooner. No matter which product you use, or how diligent you are about chain maintenance.
20k kilometers is not all that impressive. Many people get that in miles with the wax types.
His use and application are harder on chains and sprockets, too. Lots of high-speed running on a high-powered bike, wears out the chain and sprockets, sooner. No matter which product you use, or how diligent you are about chain maintenance.
???
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
You hardly ever see that even here, and Taiwanese are less-than-Germanic in their attitude to vehicle maintenance.
(Its probably not a cultural accident that BMW's are not chain drive. All that sand on all those moving parts? Germans probably just can't stand it.)
My 2015 BMW S1000RR is chain drive.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
You hardly ever see that even here, and Taiwanese are less-than-Germanic in their attitude to vehicle maintenance.
(Its probably not a cultural accident that BMW's are not chain drive. All that sand on all those moving parts? Germans probably just can't stand it.)
My 2015 BMW S1000RR is chain drive.
Originally Posted By: 02SE
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
You hardly ever see that even here, and Taiwanese are less-than-Germanic in their attitude to vehicle maintenance.
(Its probably not a cultural accident that BMW's are not chain drive. All that sand on all those moving parts? Germans probably just can't stand it.)
My 2015 BMW S1000RR is chain drive.
Traditionally they've been shaft-drive and still are for the most part.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Any chain that actually gets rusty is woefully under-lubricated.
You hardly ever see that even here, and Taiwanese are less-than-Germanic in their attitude to vehicle maintenance.
(Its probably not a cultural accident that BMW's are not chain drive. All that sand on all those moving parts? Germans probably just can't stand it.)
My 2015 BMW S1000RR is chain drive.
Traditionally they've been shaft-drive and still are for the most part.
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