VVT and thicker oil

Yup, and the HEMI's calling for 5W-20, later 0W-20 and 0W-40 (SRT/HD 6.4L and 6.2L) with the same rod and crank clearances. Or BMW changing the recommendation from 5W-30 to 10W-60 for some of the M cars, lol.
Well my 2005 Tacoma called for 5W30.
And my 2018 Tacoma called for 0W20.
Toyota had a few years to think about it too, like in your examples lol..
Both 2TR-FE (2.7L 4 cylinder)
The only change I am aware of is that VVT was added at the exhaust valves.
I dare people to put 0W12 in their BMWs.
 
For what reason? Which BMW? All of them? Old ones too?

If a relatively small decrease in fuel consumption is your one, and only goal - then I understand this suggestion. But it's not an improvement in other respects, only drawbacks.
LL22 FE++.
For certain applications.
 
For what reason? Which BMW? All of them? Old ones too?

If a relatively small decrease in fuel consumption is your one, and only goal - then I understand this suggestion. But it's not an improvement in other respects, only drawbacks.
I do not discuss MPGs on BITOG.

The bump in performance from highest quality 0W8 allows me to use cheaper 87 octane.

Each driver should develop a sound maintenance plan based on their circumstances.

My engine has thermal efficiency around 42% and my protection is deemed adequate and solid.

The VVT concerns raised by OP must be considered fool's gold.

There are certainly cases where more viscosity + short OCIs is not only a good idea and a safe cushion, but also a must.
 
I tell ya what kschachn, if I had a newish Sienna van, fuel dilution concerns would have me using 0W30. HPL Euro. Amsoil SS. Or probably M1 FS 0W40, off the Walmart shelf, with 3-5k mile OCIs.
 
I do not discuss MPGs on BITOG.

The bump in performance from highest quality 0W8 allows me to use cheaper 87 octane.

Each driver should develop a sound maintenance plan based on their circumstances.

My engine has thermal efficiency around 42% and my protection is deemed adequate and solid.

The VVT concerns raised by OP must be considered fool's gold.

There are certainly cases where more viscosity + short OCIs is not only a good idea and a safe cushion, but also a must.

2024 Corolla Cross Hybrid Australian Manual, does not mention 0W8 as adequate. Probably Toyota corp. US that has made that decision.
With the same M20A-FXS engine.
https://toyotamanuals.com.au/document/landing_page/corolla-cross-hybrid-owners-manual-jan-24-current

1720868346099.jpg

1720868516239.jpg
 
I do not discuss MPGs on BITOG.

The bump in performance from highest quality 0W8 allows me to use cheaper 87 octane.

Each driver should develop a sound maintenance plan based on their circumstances.

My engine has thermal efficiency around 42% and my protection is deemed adequate and solid.

The VVT concerns raised by OP must be considered fool's gold.

There are certainly cases where more viscosity + short OCIs is not only a good idea and a safe cushion, but also a must.
What?
 
2024 Corolla Cross Hybrid Australian Manual, does not mention 0W8 as adequate. Probably Toyota corp. US that has made that decision.
With the same M20A-FXS engine.
https://toyotamanuals.com.au/document/landing_page/corolla-cross-hybrid-owners-manual-jan-24-current

View attachment 230032
View attachment 230033
Please see my threads, as there are specific, substantiated reasons for my oil selection.

If I lived in your beautiful, unique country, I would drive a HiLux diesel and live in Brisbane.

A Corolla Cross Hybrid would call for 5W30 in my view.
 
I do not discuss MPGs on BITOG.

The bump in performance from highest quality 0W8 allows me to use cheaper 87 octane.

Each driver should develop a sound maintenance plan based on their circumstances.

My engine has thermal efficiency around 42% and my protection is deemed adequate and solid.

The VVT concerns raised by OP must be considered fool's gold.

There are certainly cases where more viscosity + short OCIs is not only a good idea and a safe cushion, but also a must.
I know it’s not financially feasible at this point, but if you’re at 42% now I would love to start with an unassembled brand new engine, and do the following:

- Dry film lubed crank & rod bearings, cam lobes & followers, piston skirts & valve stems
- Oil shedding coating on counterweights and con rods and top surface of head(s) where the valve train is
- heat dispersion coating on bottom of pistons, inside-out of oil pan, valve springs, radiator, water passages in the head, and outside of intake manifold (if aluminum)
- Total Seal 1.5mm gapless rings with Napier 2nd
- heat rejection coatings on inside of intake runners (if aluminum), inside of intake ports in head, combustion chambers, valve faces & tops of pistons
- full ceramic coating on entire exhaust

Not only would this increase durability but by better controlling friction & temps, but efficiency would increase significantly due to keeping a much higher % of combustion heat in the chamber and not being sucked into the head, block, coolant and oil.

You’d probably see a 3-5% efficiency increase along with a potential 2-3mpg from napkin calculations. Of course, all these coatings would likely add $1-2k to the overall cost of the engine, which everyday people would not foot the bill for. But for people like you who drive 40k+/yr, the fuel savings would likely recoup the cost in less than 2 years.

Just a thought, lol.
 
After 300k miles of experience, I have a feel for how this drivetrain performs.


Passing cars on highways is a frequent need around here.

Fresh, cheap 87 octane works well with my SUV and HPL PP 0W8 and saves hundreds of dollars each month.

I know it’s not financially feasible at this point, but if you’re at 42% now I would love to start with an unassembled brand new engine, and do the following:

- Dry film lubed crank & rod bearings, cam lobes & followers, piston skirts & valve stems
- Oil shedding coating on counterweights and con rods and top surface of head(s) where the valve train is
- heat dispersion coating on bottom of pistons, inside-out of oil pan, valve springs, radiator, water passages in the head, and outside of intake manifold (if aluminum)
- Total Seal 1.5mm gapless rings with Napier 2nd
- heat rejection coatings on inside of intake runners (if aluminum), inside of intake ports in head, combustion chambers, valve faces & tops of pistons
- full ceramic coating on entire exhaust

Not only would this increase durability but by better controlling friction & temps, but efficiency would increase significantly due to keeping a much higher % of combustion heat in the chamber and not being sucked into the head, block, coolant and oil.

You’d probably see a 3-5% efficiency increase along with a potential 2-3mpg from napkin calculations. Of course, all these coatings would likely add $1-2k to the overall cost of the engine, which everyday people would not foot the bill for. But for people like you who drive 40k+/yr, the fuel savings would likely recoup the cost in less than 2 years.

Just a thought, lol.
Thank you. Toyota does use DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) amorphous carbon material in crucial areas on this engine.
 
Please see my threads, as there are specific, substantiated reasons for my oil selection.

If I lived in your beautiful, unique country, I would drive a HiLux diesel and live in Brisbane.

A Corolla Cross Hybrid would call for 5W30 in my view.

Fascinating stuff, even 0W8 in the Honda L15. Add that to your signature or something.
Might need to try lower visc. now that I have longer commute with less city driving.
 
Fascinating stuff, even 0W8 in the Honda L15. Add that to your signature or something.
Might need to try lower visc. now that I have longer commute with less city driving.
Wait...Scandanavia...oh.

I happen to be watching Expedition Overland Nordic. Some of the most beautiful scenary I have ever seen.

Be very discerning in your oil choices, my friend.
 
After 300k miles of experience, I have a feel for how this drivetrain performs.

Passing cars on highways is a frequent need around here.

Fresh, cheap 87 octane works well with my SUV and HPL PP 0W8 and saves hundreds of dollars each month.
Speaking of mileage how is your cross hybrid doing for you? My 23 is averaging a little over 49 mpg confirmed when used strictly for my commute. My biggest variable is gasoline brand. Costco has been yielding higher than QT, Valero and even Shell. Still running Toyota care whatever dealer used for oil with 13 k on the clock.
 
Speaking of mileage how is your cross hybrid doing for you? My 23 is averaging a little over 49 mpg confirmed when used strictly for my commute. My biggest variable is gasoline brand. Costco has been yielding higher than QT, Valero and even Shell. Still running Toyota care whatever dealer used for oil with 13 k on the clock.
I have been at low 40s while still breaking in and with spirited driving and moderate loads.

You are doing quite well and would be the King of Fuelly.

Safety, durability, cargo area are big for me.
 
The Absolute Rule is that you Never run a different oil viscosity than the Manufacturer's Spec. If they update their spec, that's obviously OK. The only exception would be an engine that is a heavy oil user due to valve seals, ring/cylinder wear, etc.
That’s not quite the absolute rule. The absolute rule is that you will never go wrong with manufacturers’ recommendations. The second part of the rule is that you should always look for opportunities and reasons to shorten your OCI.
 
That’s not quite the absolute rule. The absolute rule is that you will never go wrong with manufacturers’ recommendations. The second part of the rule is that you should always look for opportunities and reasons to shorten your OCI.

He just forgot the fact/rule that all the manufacturer recommendations are not listed in the US manual.
 
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