Dang, I forgot about that! Volvo's designers certainly didn't think that through.
Volvo S60 trunk access - assistance needed
- Thread starter Oillover
- Start date
I remember posting my own locked out story here. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...when-did-car-makers-go-to-1-door-lock.324319/
I think they did, it's probably exactly what the engineers had in mind when designing this (and other) Volvo
It's a perfect way to have owners rely solely on the dealership for repairs/maintenance.
I assumed it was for the feared " evil valet driver will steal from you" non-concern. That whole valet-key thing was a bit overdone - did any maker other than Volvo play that up? It was the same with Saab making all of their important components so thoroughly IP theft-proof it made the the cars onerously repair-proof. And then Saab disappeared and few people cared at that point.
BMW did. The only physical difference in the valet key was that it lacked a channel on either side of the spine, so that it couldn't be inserted into certain lock tumblers.
Perhaps I'm missing something stupidly obvious, but if the single service key has been the only one in use with the car all along, then what is preventing access to the trunk if the car is jump started, and then the trunk opened either with whatever electronic trigger that is/was normally used? Was the trunk not used, or did the button just break?
And, unless the trunk latch is fully electronic, a physical key should still be able open the trunk, though a normal keyhole, or a physical backup provision. As noted above, a service key might have the same pattern as the regular key, with only a slight difference. A good locksmith should be able to copy it using a regular blank. If it's a fully electronic lock with no failsafe, then I'll join the chorus and curse Volvo's engineers.
The electric button worked intermittently from the date of purchase. For the past several months it failed working completely.
The only physical key in my parents' possession was the service key, which was designed to ONLY unlock the car, and start it. NOT open the trunk which could hold private items that the owner may not want the servicing facility to have access to.
The only failsafe to open the trunk without electricity is the emergency glow in the dark handle inside the trunk or the master key.
My last chat with him (he lives in the cold, arctic prairies) he was able to access the handle from the back seat ski pass-thru, but now thinks the trunk may be frozen shut.
As mentioned above, the only GOOD locksmiths suggested he visit the dealership for assistance.
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Gotcha. If the trunk still won't open when it thaws out, and you don't want to break in, perhaps you can ask a dealer to cut a key based on the VIN, and not worry about having it paired with the ECU until a later, more convenient time.
The pitfalls in not having a master key on hand should have become quite obvious, so any reluctance to paying the dealer to have one made should be easier to overcome. Dealing remotely with an elderly parent, who may have a bit of stubbornness, is not fun, BTDT, so good luck.
True, but as been mentioned before, they refuse to offer such a service.
They insist the car be in their service department so they can pair it with Vida.
Thank you. My parents live 1200 miles away and despite my best efforts, my father refuses to take any of my advise.
Only when things fail and the local repair shops give him answers that he doesn't want to hear, does he approach me for assistance.
The trunk is electric, BUT I believe there is a backup lock cylinder for the trunk, behind a rubber plug in the lid. You’ll need a key to use it, and idk if your valet key will work or not.
there are two styles of keys for those. One is the fancy switchblade key with all the buttons. There is also a smaller, less complex key which could cost less, I want to say $125. The fancy ones are probably $250.
I’ve owned 3 s60s. They are wonderful cars and mechanically Solid. You have to play by Volvo rules, however, and have to maintain them. I’d buy the key and have them get used to doing it the way Volvo intended. They will have a much better relationship with the car. I don’t mean to wax poetic - but having owned three I’ll tell you, they are too precise to accept half-baked care, and will be quirky and miserable to live with if you try.
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there are two styles of keys for those. One is the fancy switchblade key with all the buttons. There is also a smaller, less complex key which could cost less, I want to say $125. The fancy ones are probably $250.
I’ve owned 3 s60s. They are wonderful cars and mechanically Solid. You have to play by Volvo rules, however, and have to maintain them. I’d buy the key and have them get used to doing it the way Volvo intended. They will have a much better relationship with the car. I don’t mean to wax poetic - but having owned three I’ll tell you, they are too precise to accept half-baked care, and will be quirky and miserable to live with if you try.
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Yeah, tried that but it didn't work. The valet key isn't designed to give the same access as the main keys.
The idea of paying the $300+ for the dealership sounds great, but realistically the car is well over 250kms (150k miles) and who knows how long it'll last.
The battery is only one of many issues this car has. I'll list a couple off the top of my head:
-It also has no windshield washer reservoir or it has a severe leak (I think the PO tore off part of the front wheel well, so the reservoir was exposed to rocks and debris). So when you try to fill it, washer fluid pours out onto the ground below. My dad contacted a local shop to replace the reservoir, but they just kept giving him the run around stating that the dealership didn't provide all the required grommets to do the job properly.
-It has no block heater. The first winter when he noticed this and brought this to his mechanics attention, they said "all new cars are like that, they don't design them to use a block heater, instead you just run full synthetic oil". Obviously a lie by a mechanic that was too lazy to install one inline like Volvo designed. This put additional strain on the battery, especially during those -40C winter mornings when he tried to get it going.
-I have no idea how long ago or if the problematic "flame trap" or PCV system has ever been maintained. Given the lack of care the rest of the car received, I'd be willing to bet it's never been done. As many Volvo owners know, leave it long enough and you'll be replacing several main oil seals as the engine hemorrhages oil.
I agree with you about the half-baked care you mention. This car wasn't cared for in the beginning and my dad isn't in the best shape to give it the attention it requires.
That's why I really wanted to get them into a post 2000's Crown Vic/Taurus etc...something cheap, comfortable and that's easily maintained with off the shelf parts from many local providers. When my mom told me that it would be their "last car" I knew the Volvo would bankrupt them well before they retired from driving.
I just feel bad for them
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Just to ask, did boot work with that key when the car was purchased? Boot won`t open even if you stick the key in the drivers door lock and open it that way?
You likely need a new master key or key set.
I realize the trunk isn’t technically locked and the battery is just dead, but it is my understanding that the valet key isn’t supposed to be able to give access to the trunk. (Her S60 doesn’t have the valet key, but my Audi does and this is how it works.)
Maybe you can try jumping the car as mentioned above if you haven’t tried already. Let it sit 10-15 mins while hooked to the other car and cross your fingers. Even if that works, you should really get a key. It’s not worth the hassle.
The S60 is a good car so I wouldn’t be afraid to put a little money into it. Either way, if you buy a 20 year old car, this is what you get. My wife’s S60 is turbo charged so it has a goofy PCV system. We did that as well as the camshaft oil seals 4 years ago and it’s been fine ever since. Everything else has been wear and tear. Suspension, timing belt, water pump, motor mounts etc. 211k miles thus far. Zero rust.
I realize the trunk isn’t technically locked and the battery is just dead, but it is my understanding that the valet key isn’t supposed to be able to give access to the trunk. (Her S60 doesn’t have the valet key, but my Audi does and this is how it works.)
Maybe you can try jumping the car as mentioned above if you haven’t tried already. Let it sit 10-15 mins while hooked to the other car and cross your fingers. Even if that works, you should really get a key. It’s not worth the hassle.
The S60 is a good car so I wouldn’t be afraid to put a little money into it. Either way, if you buy a 20 year old car, this is what you get. My wife’s S60 is turbo charged so it has a goofy PCV system. We did that as well as the camshaft oil seals 4 years ago and it’s been fine ever since. Everything else has been wear and tear. Suspension, timing belt, water pump, motor mounts etc. 211k miles thus far. Zero rust.
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Key only works on drivers door....never for the trunk
@Oillover , I get what you are saying. the 1gen s60s are one of my favorite vehicles, but one can’t buy a 150k mile sample and not expect to put some money into it. I’ve seen the 1gen models with over 300k running on original seals as a daily driver with no issues, so they can go the distance if cared for. Otoh, I’ve seen miserable samples with chronic tree-light dashboards and the dreaded “reduced engine power” warning somehow still getting owners to work, with torn seats and balding tires.
the pcv flame trap is temperamental. The best plan for that is synthetic oil only, and if its still working, do that. You can do “the glove test” to get an idea of where it’s at. I used synthetic as well as half a can of seafoam in the oil and recovered one that i suspect was close to clogging. Bandaid in a bottle helped in that case, over a couple of years, several oil changes, and miles. (15-20k?).
shift flare in the 1-2 shift on the non-turbo cars is pretty common. My second one had it, but resolved after 2 changes with amsoil and an inline magnetic filter, over 15k miles.
2 of mine started developing vacuum leaks around 150k. The vacuum system is pretty simple in these cars. An under hood line fixed one, and the other was an erratic test pump, so I left it alone.
ABS modules can be a failure point with good aftermarket rebuild support. I never lost one, but did lose a steering angle sensor, which then confused the “steering” in the HID headlamps in one. There’s a cooling fan for the ecu. Some last forever, others start failing about now.
all of mine were purchased in the 100-160k miles range. All, once fixed up, we’re great. My daughter still has my 05, around 180k on it. The neighbor’s kid has another one of mine, about the same mileage and he says it’s been trouble free since they bought it. But, I definitely had to figure out what they needed and intentionally address the issues.
even if they weren’t Volvos, there’s no such thing as a cheap 150k mile car.
i will say, since your folks I think you said are up north? with the standard wheels and tires, not the wider ones on the turbo cars, they are outstanding fwd vehicles in the snow. The suspensions handle frozen slush/rocks incredibly well, they are well-balanced, and about the most sure-footed fwd I’ve ever driven in the snow.
the pcv flame trap is temperamental. The best plan for that is synthetic oil only, and if its still working, do that. You can do “the glove test” to get an idea of where it’s at. I used synthetic as well as half a can of seafoam in the oil and recovered one that i suspect was close to clogging. Bandaid in a bottle helped in that case, over a couple of years, several oil changes, and miles. (15-20k?).
shift flare in the 1-2 shift on the non-turbo cars is pretty common. My second one had it, but resolved after 2 changes with amsoil and an inline magnetic filter, over 15k miles.
2 of mine started developing vacuum leaks around 150k. The vacuum system is pretty simple in these cars. An under hood line fixed one, and the other was an erratic test pump, so I left it alone.
ABS modules can be a failure point with good aftermarket rebuild support. I never lost one, but did lose a steering angle sensor, which then confused the “steering” in the HID headlamps in one. There’s a cooling fan for the ecu. Some last forever, others start failing about now.
all of mine were purchased in the 100-160k miles range. All, once fixed up, we’re great. My daughter still has my 05, around 180k on it. The neighbor’s kid has another one of mine, about the same mileage and he says it’s been trouble free since they bought it. But, I definitely had to figure out what they needed and intentionally address the issues.
even if they weren’t Volvos, there’s no such thing as a cheap 150k mile car.
i will say, since your folks I think you said are up north? with the standard wheels and tires, not the wider ones on the turbo cars, they are outstanding fwd vehicles in the snow. The suspensions handle frozen slush/rocks incredibly well, they are well-balanced, and about the most sure-footed fwd I’ve ever driven in the snow.
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Just curious, Oillover, are your parents out here on the Prairies? We've had some brutally cold weather lately; I hope they're coping OK.
Yes, sadly they are.
Seems as though the continuous -30C temps have become the norm out there. I also hope they are doing OK.
Hope you are well and enjoying your Marmite reserves while keeping warm!
I was totally stranded one winter in Calgary AB, when I owned a naturally aspirated 2003 S60 SE with 5 speed manual (FWD, of course).
I need a set of snow tires and all the tire shops were booked up/sold out.
The only set of winter tires I could find online was by a fellow selling a nearly new set mounted on black steel 15's from an old 740/940 (obviously, RWD).
On a whim I called the seller and explained my situation. Nowhere on the internet could I find if they would fit my much newer S60.
He had a heated garage and a jack so he let me test fit them before I committed to purchasing them.
Sure enough, they did! that little S60 plowed thru uncleared alley's with ease! And the dreaded "grinding" sound when turning into parking spots was gone!
Take it to Detroit , just make sure you have another ride home
My wife recently bought me another six jars, so I'll be OK for at least a few days.Yes, sadly they are.
Seems as though the continuous -30C temps have become the norm out there. I also hope they are doing OK.
Hope you are well and enjoying your Marmite reserves while keeping warm!
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