Please help with my maintenance/upgrade To-Do-List

Carlostrece

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I've owned my 97 Buick Park Ave naturally aspirated for 14 years. It has 105K miles. I'm 2nd owner. It had 50K miles when I bought it. 1st owner abused it and didn't maintain it very well. I replaced suspension and 3 motor mounts in 2011. I also had a complete tuneup done at that time.

It runs perfectly, smooth, good power and excellent mileage. The only problem it has is a minor motor oil leak/drip (coming from I don't yet know where). My car has been adequately maintained since I bought it. However, I recently became aware that it still needs several maintenance/upgrades that are outside my area of knowlege.

I want good quality parts. Quality is 1st priority. Saving money is a lower priority, but it's nice to save 💰 💵 when it's sensible.

Below is my proposed To-Do-List that I intend to give my local mechanic. Forum members, please evaluate my list below and give advice, including parts brand(s), part number(s) and where to buy. I normally buy from RockAuto, Oreilly, Walmart, and Amazon, but I'm open to advice.

The order of items might later be changed by my mechanic to improve his efficiency. I'm open to suggestions.

1) Replace PVC (already did that last week using AC Delco PVC)

2) Replace dipstick o-ring(s). I suspect my dipstick might be leaking a little.

3) Replace valve cover gaskets. Should we also replace plastic valve covers with metal ones?

4) Replace plastic coolent bypass elbows with aluminum elbows.

4.5) Replace 14 year old serpentine belt. (It seems like an efficient time to replace serpentine belt because you'll already have the old belt removed to access the bypass elbows.) The old belt only has 50K miles on it, but it's 14 years old.

5) Replace plastic intake manifold with aluminum manifold and new gasket for it.

5.5) Evaluate radiator hoses. They only have 50K miles on them, but they're 14 years old.

6) Evaluate engine coolant to determine if it needs to be flushed and replaced again. It was previously flushed and replaced (with Orange Dex coolant) 6 or 7 years ago which was around 3000 to 3500 miles ago.

7) If coolant needs replacement, should we flush and replace it with green or orange coolant? Why?

8) Replace engine oil pan gasket. You may also replace the entire oil pan if you think it needs it.

9) Replace motor oil and filter using supplies I provided. Please prefill filter (to extent possible) before installing it. Past experience shows engine needs approx 4.5 quarts oil with the extra long Baldwin B35-S filter I provided. The extra long filter is compatible according to Baldwin. Been using B35-S filters for years. B35-S cross references with B43-S as being compatible, but B35-S is longer.

10) Buick 3800 Series 2 coils are supposed to be installed with heat sink grease/paste applied between coil and where it mounts to dissipate heat to prevent coils overheating. That's according to one 3800 maintenance website post I read. Is that correct?

I doubt my cousin used heat sink grease/paste when he replaced my coils. Should heat sink grease/paste still be added now? I realize adding paste now would require removing coils, then adding paste, then reinstalling coils.

Is my list good, or do I need to add or remove items? What are brands and part numbers for items I need to buy? Where to buy?
 
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it sounds like a pretty sound plan i wouldn’t worry about replacing the intake manifold, only the gaskets.

as far as coolant goes, dex-cool isn’t my favorite but many here hold it in high standards. i wouldn’t run personally swap to some walmart green concentrate and distilled water at a 40/60 ratio.
 
it sounds like a pretty sound plan i wouldn’t worry about replacing the intake manifold, only the gaskets.
Thank you for your reply.

My list might be sound in general, but I have no idea what parts to buy to accomplish the list. I need brands and part numbers so I can proceed to order and collect parts.
as far as coolant goes, dex-cool isn’t my favorite but many here hold it in high standards. i wouldn’t run personally swap to some walmart green concentrate and distilled water at a 40/60 ratio.
How about some name-brand 50/50 premixed green coolant? The reason I asked about switching to green is at a Buick 3800 forum some guys are very happy and proud of flushing out the orange and replacing with green.

Some of those guys think the green stuff is better, but didn't explain why. No one tried to refute their claims that the green stuff is better. Not sure what that means.

So I'm left wondering why some guys flush and switch to green while others stay with orange. What are the issues there?

One risk I foresee about switching to green is a future car owner, Jiffyfool, Wallyfool, autostorefool, or anyone not paying attention might pour in orange coolant without realizing I switched to green. So it's probably safest to stay with orange.
 
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Thank you for your reply.

My list might be sound in general, but I have no idea what parts to buy to accomplish the list. I need brands and part numbers so I can proceed to order and collect parts.

How about some name-brand 50/50 premixed green coolant? The reason I asked about switching to green is at a Buick 3800 forum some guys are very happy and proud of flushing out the orange and replacing with green.

Some of those guys think the green stuff is better, but didn't explain why. No one tried to refute their claims that the green stuff is better. Not sure what that means.

So I'm left wondering why some guys flush and switch to green while others stay with orange. What are the issues there?

One risk I foresee about switching to green is a future car owner, Jiffyfool, Wallyfool, autostorefool, or anyone not paying attention might pour in orange coolant without realizing I switched to green. So it's probably safest to stay with orange.
AC Delco only for gaskets, i’ve never really had luck with any aftermarket on GM stuff other than Mahle. dexcool is good stuff according to others, just flush and refill with Prestone Dexcool.
 
TransGo SK-4T65E shift kit (Specifically the 2nd & 3rd Accumulator parts), I recommend pulling the side cover & valve body to install the rest of the kit along with a new OE/Delco Pressure Control Solenoid if you can afford it.

Don't let it get to the point of setting a P1811 which will default to max line pressure putting undo strain on the 4th clutch hub splines & Forward Band.
 
10) Buick 3800 Series 2 coils are supposed to be installed with heat sink grease/paste applied between coil and where it mounts to dissipate heat to prevent coils overheating. That's according to one 3800 maintenance website post I read. Is that correct?

I doubt my cousin used heat sink grease/paste when he replaced my coils. Should heat sink grease/paste still be added now? I realize adding paste now would require removing coils, then adding paste, then reinstalling coils.

Heat sink compound goes between the Ignition Control Module (ICM) & the bracket it mounts to. Not between the Coils & the ICM.....But not a bad idea to remove the ICM, Clean all the original paste off, Sand the bracket clean then apply fresh heat sink compound.
 
My one suggestion would be to ask the mechanic to find the oil leaks and give you a price on fixing them. When you tell him to replace this, that and the other thing, that's what he'll do. If it still leaks afterward his answer is likely to be "you asked for A, B, and C. That's what I did." Tell him your problem, let him diagnose it. You'll both be happier.
 
My one suggestion would be to ask the mechanic to find the oil leaks and give you a price on fixing them. When you tell him to replace this, that and the other thing, that's what he'll do. If it still leaks afterward his answer is likely to be "you asked for A, B, and C. That's what I did." Tell him your problem, let him diagnose it. You'll both be happier.
That's a good idea. I'll do that.

However, I still also want to do most of the other things on my list because lurking at Buick & GM3800 forums I read those are common problem areas that will sooner or later need to be addressed. Unfortuneately those forums are not very active. It'd take weeks to get answers from just a few people there. BITOG is a much more active forum by orders of magnitude.

I especially want to replace the plastic intake manifold and its gasket, which if left stock after 60K milre could at any time without prior warning suddenly start leaking coolant into lower engine which could hydrolock the engine.

Also, the plastic coolant bypass elbows are known to sometimes (after 60K miles) suddenly break without warning, which could strand me and maybe damage engine from sudden coolant loss.

If serpentine belt breaks, I'd be stranded.

And so on with many of these common/known issues.

I'm handicapped and can barely walk. Getting stranded would be a serious problem for me. I need to make my car as reliable as possible.
 
What shape is your coolant in? Is a definite color discernable?
If it's a red/orange color it's Dex-Cool.
Lots of vehicles run a Dex-Cool formulation.
It's definately orange Dexcool. I had old Dexcool flushed and replaced with new Dexcool about 6 or 7 years ago, which was about 3000 to 3500 miles ago. Still looks totally orange and clean. I only drive less than 500 miles a year. Car stored in heated underground garage at 50-75F depending on time of year. Usually 60-70F in garage.
 
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I had old Dexcool flushed and replaced with new Dexcool about 6 or 7 years ago
You're into the years-of-service spec of a coolant.
Check to see what the service life of Dex-Cool is.
If your system is really clean, you might just drain and fill the radiator every 5 years.
You'd be refreshing the 'active ingredients' and your cooling system would never get scuzzy in the first place.

A friend's son bought Mrs. Kira's 2002 Saab which, when we got it, had "Christmas Coolant". It was red and green.
I thoroughly rinsed the system and installed new Dex (using distilled water).
Years later I did the same thing for the kid as a wedding gift.
 
All for a small oil leak on a 26 year old vehicle? Maxlife oil change and monitor it first. Don’t “fix” what ain’t broken.
The definition of a leak: when the stuff that should be on the inside is now on the outside.
Two things to remember about fluid leaks: 1. they don't heal themselves and 2. all leaks eventually stop - when there's nothing left to leak.
 
My mom had a 99 LeSabre 3.8 and we had to put new brake lines on it because they were getting rusty. I changed the oil and filter for her and backed it down the ramps and it leaked brake fluid all over my driveway. We also had to replace a front drive half shaft which had a bad CV joint. She had a problem before that with a leaking gas line. I sold it over a year ago to a younger farm kid who owned a rusty diesel truck and he knew all about automotive repairs. He as happy to buy it and we were glad it went to a new owner. He had a 60 mile commute every day to work and was tired of buying diesel fuel in his huge Ford F250 truck. Hers had under 95,000 miles on it.
 
All for a small oil leak on a 26 year old vehicle? Maxlife oil change and monitor it first. Don’t “fix” what ain’t broken.
I've been using Maxlife full syn 5w30 for previous 8 years. I'm going to soon try Maxlife syn blend 5w30. If that doesn't stop the leak, then try Blue Devil Stop Leak.

However, I also want to explore additional options and I have other concerns beyond just the oil leak.
 
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