Volvo S-60 2.5T oil recommendation

[fred0803]

I drive 60/40 HWY to City driving. Usually put about 1800/2300 miles per month on the Current vehicle. I am fairly suprized that more people didn't suggest GC. (since I bought some in advance).

I think using Mobil 1 5/30 in the winter and 10/30 in the summer is what I will try. I will AutoRX before I start with the synthetics like you all suggested. I won't let the oil go over 5K probably because that's my comfort zone.

 

[Curious Kid]

I'll add a comment for you - "GC will be fine. It has been spoken of much around here and has even earned it's own section."

GC's an a3/b3 rated oil, meaning that it has an HTHS rating above 3.5cSt @ 150 deg.c, is a suitable choice for use in high performance engines and for extended OCIs. Due to ester content it also has added cleaning benefits, amongst other inherent properties/qualities.

Take a peak through the filler hole to see how it looks...Rx might not be necessary afterall, and the ester content in GC or redline if you please might just be enough. I'd keep the first 2 or 3 OCI short however after the switch to keep the potential contaminent level low and the filter from becoming too restrictive and spending more time in bypass as the oil warms up at start-up.

Enjoy the car!

Volvohead - how was it concluded that one should Rx before making a switch from mineral to synthetic to reduce the leak risk? Couldn't it be said that "you just never know?"

I have heard that OE volvo main seals have been known to stiffen and become something not quite like "brittle." This alone can cause leaks. This might be part of my current experience with my 2.4 in the 850 that's now 10 yrs old.

 

[Volvohead]

I have an 850 with 173K on it where ARX completely cured the infamous rear main leak. Enough said.

The topic of switching from dino to synthetic, and all that it entails, has been discussed to death over the decades. It was again covered here just a few days ago. There is a leak risk, but it can be managed.

 

[Curious Kid]

Volvohead - that's nice to hear. I take it then you have continued on with the use of synthetics since - what kind for curiosity sake, and sorry if I missed this note before.

Thanks.

 

[ALS]

Well I ask one of the Techs that works at my Volvo dealer yesterday what percentage of the newer Aluminum blocked engines had sludge? He said everyone of them that they see at the dealer. He said the reason is the government mandates that the auto manufactures find ways to lower the cost of maintenance on cars. That is why we are seeing fuel filter change intervals of 100K. And the longer OCI's coming with on line with the newer cars since the mid nineties. He said none of the Turbo cars OCI's should be going over 5K miles.

 

[bar1]

The problem isn't the stress the oil sees when driving, but the temperatures seen in the turbo if you turn off your engine immediately after a spirited run. That can cause sludge/coking in the turbo and oil feed to the turbo. My turbochaged Audi sees nothing but synthetic since synthetic can handle higher temperatures before coking...

 

[Volvohead]

Curious Kid,

Not yet on this one. Here's why:

The last owner ran this particular 2.4 under temperature for an extended time (thermostat failed open). When I found it, it was moderately contaminated with a heavy rear main leak. The vehicle was otherwise exceptionally clean and the ATX rock solid.

It has responded beautifully to the ARX. All leaks are completely gone, oil consumption, power, mileage and smoothness are now comparable a new engine. I just drove it 50 miles this morning using only about 2 gallons of gas (I now drive it most mornings). It is presently going through a final treatment to get the very last of the deposits out. After that, it will be getting M1 T&SUV 5W-40, at 5K intervals - unless I decide to use up the huge stash of other oils on hand first.

As for the rear mains on the 850s, the primary cause for one leaking, other than dirt, is a clogged flame trap, which can overpressurize the crankcase and blow them out (and/or blow the dipstick out of its socket).

This won't be my first over 100K conversion. But at 173K, this one will be the highest mileage one.

 

[Winston]

Pablo,

That was a great link. It is real evidence that Amsoil is a much better oil than an oil that just meets API specs.