OCI recommendation for TGDI?

[majestic_lurker]

I drive a 2024 Mazda 3 2.5T AWD and is currently a little over 3,000 miles with two oil changes so far (one at 500 miles and one at 3,000 miles). Early changes were to get break-in material out. Eventually, I will get a UOA done but it's currently too low mileage to have confidence in having a normal UOA. The maintenance schedule of this car says 10,000 miles or 12 months under normal service and 5,000 miles or 6 months under severe service. I would put my car under severe service for several reasons:

1. Live in the upper midwest with very cold winters that last for several months
2. Almost always idle for two to three minutes before I drive to let the engine settle from a cold start in winter
3. Take a lot of short trips with lots of stop-and-go traffic with very infrequent longer trips
4. Well... it's turbo direct injected

For more context, I've only used Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for the two oil changes so far and will eventually switch over to Valvoline XL-III 5w-30, which I see as basically equivalent oil (lots of the same important specs/ approvals/etc.) but cheaper overall with the discounts from Valvoline Global. I expect an average of 3,000 miles annually so it makes me unsure when I should roughly be changing the oil. Changing oil every 6 months with 1,500 miles would seem to me unnecessary and overly cautious. I understand that UOAs would expose the truth better here but I'm gonna wait out for more mileage on the engine before doing them.

With all that said, can I confidently guess that 3,000 miles annual change is sufficient for TGDI engine longevity? This car is going to stay with me till it dies so I care about longevity but also don't want to waste what I would consider high-quality oils unnecessarily to appease the 6 months interval while not even closely hitting the 5,000 mile marker. I am asking from a general viewpoint as I understand TGDI engines differ from brand to brand and it'd be insanity to assume all TGDI engines are created equal. However, if you happen to know more specifically about this TGDI engine concerning OCIs and UOAs, it'd be welcome information. If I am missing any pertinent context, please let me know. Otherwise, answer away.

 

[edyvw]

DO NOT IDLE engine! What is in there to settle? Start it, put seat belt, turn music on and SLOWLY move! You will do bigger favor to an engine if you start moving slowly immediately than to cut OCI 2,000 miles. Keep HVAC on cold, just start fan at minimum so glass doesn’t fog. In few miles you will have heat and things will warm up much faster.
Use what Mazda wants during warranty. If it is 0W20, use Mobil1 0W20 ESP X2. If it allows 0/5W30 use any oil that has MB229.51 approval (Mobil1 ESP 0W30, Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 are available in Wal Mart).

 

[tasch72]

Get a series of used oil analysis to establish a trend and have objective data on how the oil you use interacts with your car and the way you drive it

 

[majestic_lurker]

DO NOT IDLE engine! What is in there to settle? Start it, put seat belt, turn music on and SLOWLY move! You will do bigger favor to an engine if you start moving slowly immediately than to cut OCI 2,000 miles. Keep HVAC on cold, just start fan at minimum so glass doesn’t fog. In few miles you will have heat and things will warm up much faster.
Use what Mazda wants during warranty. If it is 0W20, use Mobil1 0W20 ESP X2. If it allows 0/5W30 use any oil that has MB229.51 approval (Mobil1 ESP 0W30, Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 are available in Wal Mart).

Engine on winter cold start up will fluctuate quickly up and down RPM to initially warm up engine. I understand that actually driving the car slowly better helps the engine warm up but I will not just turn on the engine and start going right away. Just a preference, not a science.

Also, I think you misunderstood the OCI question since you mentioned cutting 2,000 miles. Please re-read. The engine is specified for 5w-30 and the oils I mentioned also have MB229.51 approval. No need to worry there.

 

[majestic_lurker]

Get a series of used oil analysis to establish a trend and have objective data on how the oil you use interacts with your car and the way you drive it

I mean, you're not wrong lol. I suppose I could start early but I'm more so curious about thoughts towards doing an annual change based on the above given context without any UOA for the time being.

 

[edyvw]

Engine on winter cold start up will fluctuate quickly up and down RPM to initially warm up engine. I understand that actually driving the car slowly better helps the engine warm up but I will not just turn on the engine and start going right away. Just a preference, not a science.

Also, I think you misunderstood the OCI question since you mentioned cutting 2,000 miles. Please re-read. The engine is specified for 5w-30 and the oils I mentioned also have MB229.51 approval. No need to worry there.

Well, yeah, obviously it is not science. You need oil pressure and that is it. Whether it is fluctuating a bit or not is irrelevant.

Stick to MB229.51, and change it every 5k. No need for 3,000mls changes. That is what I referred to when I said cut by 2,000mls.
You said midwest. Where in Midwest? Minneapolis or St. Louis? That is big difference in cold starts. If car parked outside, I would switch to Mobil1 ESP 0W30.
I do 5k on Tiguan. It makes 5k in year and a bit.

 

[facility1]

0w-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum would be a great choice in your vehicle good ccs,& mrv specs, works well in cold temps,, ( no need for a euro oil )., there are other good 0w-20 oils like Valvoline EP etc. at Walmart that are warranty compliant that you may want to consider.to note, warm car up for 3-4 miniutes,then drive easy for a bit.

 

[AKhan87]

I agree with edyvw, no need for #2 on your list, it can cause more harm as the fuel is not being burned off as efficiently as if you gently drove it away.

 

[majestic_lurker]

I agree with edyvw, no need for #2 on your list, it can cause more harm as the fuel is not being burned off as efficiently as if you gently drove it away.

Thanks, that's generally what is believed today to be true. It just feels weird driving off right away but can consider it.

 

[Propflux01]

The infrequent long trips, short tripping, and cold weather would steer me to a maximum of 5000 Miles. That is where I change mine at, (CX-5 Turbo). I just posted a UOA on mine. Mine, however sees full engine warming and 2-lane highway to work and back. Trips out of state as well. As for your warm up, start it, let it get past its high idle, then drive off. No need for 3 minute warm ups.

 

[majestic_lurker]

The infrequent long trips, short tripping, and cold weather would steer me to a maximum of 5000 Miles. That is where I change mine at, (CX-5 Turbo). I just posted a UOA on mine. Mine, however sees full engine warming and 2-lane highway to work and back. Trips out of state as well. As for your warm up, start it, let it get past its high idle, then drive off. No need for 3 minute warm ups.

What about the time aspect of it though? I won't reach 5,000 till nearly two years later. Oil degrades over time as I understand.

It usually takes a minute or two for the high idle to drop on cold days. Especially when it gets below 0 degrees F. Some here have said to just drive off away anyways which might be the better thing to do as long as you're light footed during warm up.

 

[Mainia]

DO NOT IDLE engine! What is in there to settle? Start it, put seat belt, turn music on and SLOWLY move! You will do bigger favor to an engine if you start moving slowly immediately than to cut OCI 2,000 miles. Keep HVAC on cold, just start fan at minimum so glass doesn’t fog. In few miles you will have heat and things will warm up much faster.
Use what Mazda wants during warranty. If it is 0W20, use Mobil1 0W20 ESP X2. If it allows 0/5W30 use any oil that has MB229.51 approval (Mobil1 ESP 0W30, Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 are available in Wal Mart).

I disagree, in winter or colder weather, let you car idle for a couple of minutes. Even if you have slight fuel dilution that little bit will do no harm. I had massive fuel dilution up to its worst rise of about 1.5 liters on a 4 liter oil amount and was all caught up on it. I would send my samples out to Polaris Labs to check for wear and it came back all the time no noticeable wear. The car also is tuned and gets trashed daily @22 psi boost. Even when I had this issue I got over it, since I was not seeing wear metals that were out of spec for the motor. I have since fixed the over the top fuel dilution by finally coming to the hypothesis of my Hyundai having jammed rings. Once that issue was dealt with, I have slight to no fuel dilution in the summer, to very mild fuel dilution in Minnesota winters, I idle my car before leaving 99% of the time even in summer. I want piston expansion before seeing any form of boost . As I have seen a couple of different Hyundai pistons with rock load wear patterns. So I give them a chance to expand a bit. I dump my oil at 3,000 to 3,250 mile point. Fuel dilution is a boogieman that is way over exaggerated. If you dump your oil at severe service intervals.

 

[edyvw]

I disagree, in winter or colder weather, let you car idle for a couple of minutes. Even if you have slight fuel dilution that little bit will do no harm. I had massive fuel dilution up to its worst rise of about 1.5 liters on a 4 liter oil amount and was all caught up on it. I would send my samples out to Polaris Labs to check for wear and it came back all the time no noticeable wear. The car also is tuned and gets trashed daily @22 psi boost. Even when I had this issue I got over it, since I was not seeing wear metals that were out of spec for the motor. I have since fixed the over the top fuel dilution by finally coming to the hypothesis of my Hyundai having jammed rings. Once that issue was dealt with, I have slight to no fuel dilution in the summer, to very mild fuel dilution in Minnesota winters, I idle my car before leaving 99% of the time even in summer. I want piston expansion before seeing any form of boost . As I have seen a couple of different Hyundai pistons with rock load wear patterns. So I give them a chance to expand a bit. I dump my oil at 3,000 to 3,250 mile point.

You have a specific issue. There is no reason to idle the engine after appropriate pressure is established in a properly engineered engine. It is a waste of gas and time, and you are not doing anything for transmission or, worse, if it is manual, which requires mechanical shearing to warm up, same as differentials, bearings, etc.
I start my cars regularly at -20 to -30, occasionally even close to -40, and once at -42, and I don't have issues with wear, dilution or anything of that nature.
Some people idle bcs. they want warm seats, whatever, but strictly from a mechanical standpoint, it is actually doing more damage than preventing anything from happening.

 

[YZJB]

DO NOT IDLE engine! What is in there to settle? Start it, put seat belt, turn music on and SLOWLY move! You will do bigger favor to an engine if you start moving slowly immediately than to cut OCI 2,000 miles. Keep HVAC on cold, just start fan at minimum so glass doesn’t fog. In few miles you will have heat and things will warm up much faster.
Use what Mazda wants during warranty. If it is 0W20, use Mobil1 0W20 ESP X2. If it allows 0/5W30 use any oil that has MB229.51 approval (Mobil1 ESP 0W30, Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 are available in Wal Mart).

0w-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum would be a great choice in your vehicle good ccs,& mrv specs, works well in cold temps,, ( no need for a euro oil )., there are other good 0w-20 oils like Valvoline EP etc. at Walmart that are warranty compliant that you may want to consider.to note, warm car up for 3-4 miniutes,then drive easy for a bit.

The Mazda 2.5T DOES NOT SPEC 0W-20!!!

It specs 5W-30.

 

[facility1]

opps I thought it was 0w-20 from factory recommended,, then just use Pennzoil ultra 5w-30 me wrong//

 

[majestic_lurker]

The Mazda 2.5T DOES NOT SPEC 0W-20!!!

It specs 5W-30.

Thanks for the emphasis. Thought I made it clear by writing which oil I used but people are confused.

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Kirkland on a 2 year interval and find something else to worry about. Your Mazda will be fine

 

[ChrisD46]

Engine on winter cold start up will fluctuate quickly up and down RPM to initially warm up engine. I understand that actually driving the car slowly better helps the engine warm up but I will not just turn on the engine and start going right away. Just a preference, not a science.

Also, I think you misunderstood the OCI question since you mentioned cutting 2,000 miles. Please re-read. The engine is specified for 5w-30 and the oils I mentioned also have MB229.51 approval. No need to worry there.

I see no problem to let vehicle idle for 1 to 3 minutes first before slowly driving away . As for oil , a once per year oil change with M1 5W30 EP with its higher oxidation / longer drain potential could well be ideal for you .

 

[shortyb]

It's really going to depend on what a good UOA shows as to what OCI should be appropriate for YOU. The guidelines for normal and severe service are just that. Guidelines based on average mileages and driving conditions. You "qualify" for severe service due to use, but time to mileage is not really a factor, ie; 1500 miles in 6 months. Either of the 2 oils you mentioned should get you to 1 year at a minimum. I get that most folks start hand-wringing when the oil gets to a time in service limit, but in fact the oil is fine and can last quite a bit longer.

I personally use 2 aspects of a UOA to determine my intervals, fuel and oxidation. If either was higher than average, time to dump the oil. I almost never saw a change in wear metals, but knew they were coming if the oil was toast. For example, our Tiguan saw very short trips (like 1.47 miles one way) for the first 3 years we owned it and about 4700 miles annually. UOAs showed oil (M1 ESP 5W-30) was done just before 5K so that became my interval. It doesn't short trip anymore because wife's work is a lot further away so I anticipate the next UOA to show the oil still good beyond 5K and may wait to dump it. We'll see.

 

[majestic_lurker]

It's really going to depend on what a good UOA shows as to what OCI should be appropriate for YOU. The guidelines for normal and severe service are just that. Guidelines based on average mileages and driving conditions. You "qualify" for severe service due to use, but time to mileage is not really a factor, ie; 1500 miles in 6 months. Either of the 2 oils you mentioned should get you to 1 year at a minimum. I get that most folks start hand-wringing when the oil gets to a time in service limit, but in fact the oil is fine and can last quite a bit longer.

I personally use 2 aspects of a UOA to determine my intervals, fuel and oxidation. If either was higher than average, time to dump the oil. I almost never saw a change in wear metals, but knew they were coming if the oil was toast. For example, our Tiguan saw very short trips (like 1.47 miles one way) for the first 3 years we owned it and about 4700 miles annually. UOAs showed oil (M1 ESP 5W-30) was done just before 5K so that became my interval. It doesn't short trip anymore because wife's work is a lot further away so I anticipate the next UOA to show the oil still good beyond 5K and may wait to dump it. We'll see.

Great, this was the kind of answer I was looking for. I just needed a vote of confidence that 1 year OCI with a low 3000 mile with either Mobil 1 ESP or Valvoline XL-III 5w-30 was not a generally dumb choice even without a UOA and "severe" service conditions posed.

Definitely will highly consider fuel dilution and oxidation values once I start doing some UOAs.