HPL and TGDI engines

I have search high and low and cannot find a single thread with someone using HPL or Amsoil oil in a TGDI engine for an extended oil change interval. Is it only possible on PI engines. My asking is because I do about 10ths miles a year on my 2 cars, and it would be great to change in once a yr. On one car I can see doing it 2018 Crosstrek….I’ve seen extended UOA. The other 2020 Equinox 1.5T. I have only seen a few reports going over 6000 mile, mine included.
The German makes have been going 10k miles with their TGDI engine using specifications which HPL et al build upon. This has been going on for almost 20 years.
 
I've been taking the engine cover off (underneath the vehicle) on our Ford Escape 1.6 during the summer to let some of the heat escape easier.
once you turn the engine off, the source of the heat stops the heat generation process... you would probably be better off removing the hood and driving the car that way instead of doing it the way you are. :)
 
once you turn the engine off, the source of the heat stops the heat generation process... you would probably be better off removing the hood and driving the car that way instead of doing it the way you are. :)
Peak engine tempretures occur shortly after engine shut down. Lifting the hood to allow rapid evacuation of excess heat would also prolong longevity of all the hoses and wires. Some newer cars are even designed to direct airflow into the engine compartment to cool things down.
 
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Way off topic, but I have cheap box fans set up at the front of my garage so when cars are pulled in and shut down, airflow is directed into the front. I have also removed the rear hood weatherstrip on my notorious heat grenade to aid in evacuation. Yet another reason people think I'm weird.
 
Way off topic, but I have cheap box fans set up at the front of my garage so when cars are pulled in and shut down, airflow is directed into the front. I have also removed the rear hood weatherstrip on my notorious heat grenade to aid in evacuation. Yet another reason people think I'm weird.
No fans here... but, hot as hades so popping hood can't hurt, leaving the garage door open for 30 minutes or so, and is free to allow a quicker cooldown before closing garage door since HVAC runs year round.

I don't run insulating engine covers either. Replaced plenty of coils/injectors on various makes that seem to be cooked. Plus, those insulating covers make good housing for critters, rodents, or lizards enjoy the space. Nothing like removing lizard housing and dozens of lizard egg shells.

So, not really off topic because many are using the best coolants/oils/intervals/filters/whatever to keep their vehicle running better a little longer. I see reduced heat soak as another method in that goal, especially when the automaker's electric coolant pump runs after shutdown to assist in cooling. So, popped hoods, box fans, both, along with sensible intervals, improved lubricants/filters... imo are good habits tied in together.
 
Peak engine tempretures occur shortly after engine shut down. Lifting the hood to allow rapid evacuation of excess heat would also prolong longevity of all the hoses and wires. Some newer cars are even designed to direct airflow into the engine compartment to cool things down.

yeah, they all heat soak on shutdown... basically because flow of coolant has stopped and all that stored heat energy starts to release via conduction and convection to the surrounding area. . really seems like a waste of effort to me, opening the hood to allow that initial blast of hot air to rise out of the engine compartment..

back when I was a diesel mechanic, if I had to work on an engine and it came in hot, I would remove the rocker cover ( assuming I was working inside the top end) and then aim a fan at the engine... but it still take hours before it was cool enough to be able to actually put my hands on stuff.
 
yeah, they all heat soak on shutdown... basically because flow of coolant has stopped and all that stored heat energy starts to release via conduction and convection to the surrounding area. . really seems like a waste of effort to me, opening the hood to allow that initial blast of hot air to rise out of the engine compartment..

back when I was a diesel mechanic, if I had to work on an engine and it came in hot, I would remove the rocker cover ( assuming I was working inside the top end) and then aim a fan at the engine... but it still take hours before it was cool enough to be able to actually put my hands on stuff.

***NOTE*** I just realized after writing this run away bla bla bla.... it is , maybe in the wrong place? Sorry. Moderator or Staff, if not too much trouble , please put it where it goes. Some likely will say , "where the sun dont shine." I get it. If so then let it be.
Thoughts / questions? Your opinions or experinces please.
We all know cars are designed to run with thermostat, coolant , water pumps, radiators and even electric cooling fans. Lots even have temp gage/alarms etc... Yet I just cant accept the way these cars throw off so much heat after any amount of driving. I get an absolute kick out of several motor oils claims that they are designed for their lubricant to make your machine run , COOLER! LOL , I recall one named Dura Lube was taken to court and lost two or three lawsuits that proved they had zero proof to back up those claims. Funny thing is Dura Lube is still right up there on store shelves after being proven to be nearly all 05w30 engine oil. Yep, some even say they will make your engine run 10%or 20% and as much as 100% cooler than other products. :unsure:
Sorry- run away frieght train / out of control OCD kicked in again this week. Looking for somthing else to worry about or some attempt to solve a problem that probably does not even exist.
So: Anyone else pondering any of this engine cooling dynamics like me?
I been thinking of looking into some of those "extra-cooling" products designed to add to your coolant system. I find it a whole lot easier to contemplate coolant or coolant additives could actually have some effect on temp. I used to cut half of my coolant in the Chevelles and add some stuff called Water Wetter or some similar name. Got that idea from a couple of transmission shop buddies who were also part time circle track racers who were into all this kind of stuff. Maybe one was named Hyper Cool?
I do realize things are done in racing that are not necesarily healthy for street and city driven vehicles. But it is often forgotten that the race tracks and drag strips have at times become the proving grounds of some really major break thru findings that help in safety and performance once in a while. So, just not so sure if is safe in all of these newer designed , super tiny engines like Toyotas , Hondas and Nissans etc... Plus the ones that toss a mini turbo in for extra ooomph. Just found the product that I used to put in Chevelles in my shop. Dug up a 1/2 used bottle and one unopened. Product is made by Rislone called HyperCool. I recall I did use it for many years in the 75+76 Chevelles and the 72 Cutlass back in the 1980s + 1990s. Never had any issue with the use of that. What makes me pause these days is that I remember reading a good bit about cooling systems and preventive maintenence and it was said DO NOT MIX anything/absolutely nothing with the factory coolant called for by your auto manufacturer. Claims at the time (started about 2000 or so) were than anything you mix with factory coolant will react and actually cause advanced corrosion , lack of one of the the exact protections we are seeking , etc... SO, less cooling and less protection. Anyone else have any experience , using these type of coolants or "boosters" enough for a report of - good or bad? Never had an emergency need but have always kept a few jugs of factory coolant on hand from dealerships. Even keep one in the trunk for any travels longer than just routine round the block type of rides.
So ****BE COOL**** everyone. Wait a moment. I think there is actually one out there named 'Be Cool!" :love: I am going surfin again!
 

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With fuel dilution, also known for some engines as excessive oil making, why would anyone even consider an extended interval? Gasoline doesn't make a good engine lubricant.

For data, UOA your oil for fuel. Pick a lab that doesn't guestimate fuel % like the common fastfooddrivethru lab that many use.

If the data gives you peace of mind, then extend your interval.

Much depends on driving style and automaker GDI combo. Fancy brands do not make up for bad GDI tuning, pathetic automaker, and my wife's short tripping engine torture.

I would NEVER consider an extended oil change interval without data. And, even with data, I'd consider the required log books for any warranty for future class action lawsuit. You can do whatever you want at your own risk.
I started to use Polaris /Oil AnalyzerLabs a while back = Amsoil's preferred , to check for Dilution , TBN and other items they report on
since they have and will use their GCI machines. It is actually a waste of time and money to run any oil and then send off samples when
you know they are not capable or willing to provide ALL the results we need if your engine is one of the diluters.
Polaris/OilAnalyzers lab is simply a pleasure to deal with.
 
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I do this a lot with my Sportwagen in the garage....yeah they get HOT!
I have never done this is my S BUT I have a second oil cooler and I changed the sensor for the after run fan to one that starts at a lower temp. I'll re-evaluate when/after I get the turbos replaced. That though may be many many years from now.
 
Peak engine tempretures occur shortly after engine shut down. Lifting the hood to allow rapid evacuation of excess heat would also prolong longevity of all the hoses and wires. Some newer cars are even designed to direct airflow into the engine compartment to cool things down.
Those comments are almost word for word from a master mechanic , former auto mechanical teacher and now auto magazine mechanical reporter/editor, Ray Bohacz. Ray can and will answer or send someone in the best direction for any mechanical question anyone will
send to him at [email protected] or Ask Ray P.O. Box 2000 Bennington VT 05201.
 
Peak engine tempretures occur shortly after engine shut down. Lifting the hood to allow rapid evacuation of excess heat would also prolong longevity of all the hoses and wires. Some newer cars are even designed to direct airflow into the engine compartment to cool things down.
Several muscle cars in the 60s and 70s were designed with fender air extractors as well as some with air openings to cool the brakes.
Pontiac and Buick muscle cars as well as the long lost AMC cars used them in their sports models. I often wonder why the manufacturers stopped using those for the engine compartment escpecially. Of course today there are no need for the special brake cooling ones as no real muscle cars coming from Buick anymore and poor old Pontiac was snuffed out by often mismanaged General Motors Corp (sad/bad move IMHO). Pontiac and Olds made some of the best cars along with Buick that GMC ever produced and they killed off two of them.
 
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