I've been running Castrol Syntec in my '08 CR-V, although the last oil change I used Valvoline Synpower since it was slightly cheaper. Following the maintenance minder, the oil changes happened at 10,000 miles, 19,000 miles and 29,0000 miles. I was a little surprised when I looked under the filler cap at 34,000 miles with 40% life left on the MM, and there is some brown, goopy stuff on the oil deflector and in some of the corners I can see under the filler cap. Compared to my '04 CR-V with the same engine, it doesn't look quite right. The only major difference is my '04 didn't have the MM and called for oil changes every 5,000 miles. So is the brown goopy stuff a bad thing? It's not overheating, oil consumption is zero (never had to add a drop since it was new!), and runs fine otherwise. I put in 5W-30 at the last oil change, and found the engine isn't as clattery when it's cold, but it had no noticeable difference in gas mileage.
Varnish or sludge? 2008 CR-V
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
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I'd be willing to say it's not sludge. Have never heard of that happening to a Honda engine. But one thing I would question is the MM. On my '10 CRV, it usually gets to 5% about 7-7.5K, not 10K. But, I run 15K OCI's on my current Accord and did the same on the old 02 Accord, and never had sludge problems. This was M1 EP 5W-30 though.
We need pictures. I'm sure it's not sludge, but could be varnish or just pooling oil.
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
I've been running Castrol Syntec in my '08 CR-V, although the last oil change I used Valvoline Synpower since it was slightly cheaper. Following the maintenance minder, the oil changes happened at 10,000 miles, 19,000 miles and 29,0000 miles. I was a little surprised when I looked under the filler cap at 34,000 miles with 40% life left on the MM, and there is some brown, goopy stuff on the oil deflector and in some of the corners I can see under the filler cap. Compared to my '04 CR-V with the same engine, it doesn't look quite right. The only major difference is my '04 didn't have the MM and called for oil changes every 5,000 miles. So is the brown goopy stuff a bad thing? It's not overheating, oil consumption is zero (never had to add a drop since it was new!), and runs fine otherwise. I put in 5W-30 at the last oil change, and found the engine isn't as clattery when it's cold, but it had no noticeable difference in gas mileage.
If it is sludge and the amount is minimal then when the weather is considered fine them just take it out on the highway for a good spin to get the oil nice and hot and circulate it around to absorb moisture. Since it's so cold in your area getting oil hot is a concern. I'd say a good hour and a half will handle that sludge concern you have.
Since I drive little miles myself that's what I do every other week in my car/truck even though I use synthetic oil and the gas price is high.
Durango
I've been running Castrol Syntec in my '08 CR-V, although the last oil change I used Valvoline Synpower since it was slightly cheaper. Following the maintenance minder, the oil changes happened at 10,000 miles, 19,000 miles and 29,0000 miles. I was a little surprised when I looked under the filler cap at 34,000 miles with 40% life left on the MM, and there is some brown, goopy stuff on the oil deflector and in some of the corners I can see under the filler cap. Compared to my '04 CR-V with the same engine, it doesn't look quite right. The only major difference is my '04 didn't have the MM and called for oil changes every 5,000 miles. So is the brown goopy stuff a bad thing? It's not overheating, oil consumption is zero (never had to add a drop since it was new!), and runs fine otherwise. I put in 5W-30 at the last oil change, and found the engine isn't as clattery when it's cold, but it had no noticeable difference in gas mileage.
If it is sludge and the amount is minimal then when the weather is considered fine them just take it out on the highway for a good spin to get the oil nice and hot and circulate it around to absorb moisture. Since it's so cold in your area getting oil hot is a concern. I'd say a good hour and a half will handle that sludge concern you have.
Since I drive little miles myself that's what I do every other week in my car/truck even though I use synthetic oil and the gas price is high.
Durango
I've got an '07 CRV and have never seen what you're describing. Mines a fairly low mile with 26,000 miles, or about 8500 miles a year.
I blow off the MM and change the oil with PYB spring and fall.
How's your coolant level been, ever have to add any?
I blow off the MM and change the oil with PYB spring and fall.
How's your coolant level been, ever have to add any?
So can I ask how following the manufacturer's recommendation, based on using conventional oil, is considered an "extended" oil change? If Honda believes conventional can go that long and the word on BITOG is that the K24 is gentle on oil, then it doesn't seem like a syn is needed, though I use one anyway.
Schmoe, something must have changed for the '10, since mine says to change at 15%, not 5%. Seems to me the '10 models increased the horsepower slightly, so maybe the MM was recalibrated.
I'll see if I can get a picture of the goop.
Schmoe, something must have changed for the '10, since mine says to change at 15%, not 5%. Seems to me the '10 models increased the horsepower slightly, so maybe the MM was recalibrated.
I'll see if I can get a picture of the goop.
I amazed with how annoying it is at 15% that anyone could get to 5%. Obviously you're supposed to change before 0%, not at 5% or 15% or those would be 0%.
Really, it could be some varnish or just pooled oil, either might be fine for Honda and the function of the engine, but the freaks here like clean and I don't blame them.
Really, it could be some varnish or just pooled oil, either might be fine for Honda and the function of the engine, but the freaks here like clean and I don't blame them.
Yeah, it does seem strange that they don't just settle on 0%, although the "change me now" indications become progressively more annoying as you get closer to 0%. Maybe they just wanted to make REALLY sure you had adequate warning. Mine turns the wrench indicator on at 15%.
Originally Posted By: hemitom
That brown goop your getting is from running in cold weather.I would bet that most cars that are not run to full operating temps will get this. Every car that i have ever driven in winter weather has had this under the oil cap .
+1
Short trips or COLD weather using ANY TYPE of oil this will happen.
The syn oil does NOTHING for you and will NOT PREVENT it from happening no matter what thedrinkers members here think.
With short trips or real cold weather, taking the vehicle on longer trips will help but shorter OCIs is something that should be done.
Bill
That brown goop your getting is from running in cold weather.I would bet that most cars that are not run to full operating temps will get this. Every car that i have ever driven in winter weather has had this under the oil cap .
+1
Short trips or COLD weather using ANY TYPE of oil this will happen.
The syn oil does NOTHING for you and will NOT PREVENT it from happening no matter what the
With short trips or real cold weather, taking the vehicle on longer trips will help but shorter OCIs is something that should be done.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Boomer01
I've only put 800 miles on my '07 in the last 4 months with conventional and don't have this issue. All short trips.
Gets a great deal colder in high altitude W. WY than OH as well.
You also do have a lot lower humidity most of the time. A "drier" winter like we do here.
But I still have seen vehicles with the short trips get the goop. And what I said above take care of it most of the time.
Bill
I've only put 800 miles on my '07 in the last 4 months with conventional and don't have this issue. All short trips.
Gets a great deal colder in high altitude W. WY than OH as well.
You also do have a lot lower humidity most of the time. A "drier" winter like we do here.
But I still have seen vehicles with the short trips get the goop. And what I said above take care of it most of the time.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Boomer01
Bill,
Sure. I had a 2001 Dakota with the 4.7 that used to get the "goop" bad. And that was with M1.
I'm not disagreeing, just saying never had it with this engine.
Some engines do better since they may run warmer/have better PCV/ designed better for short trip operation.
But my major point is telling someone that if they run a more expensive oil will fix all their problems/issues is poor advice.
Advice that is often dispensed here with out thought.
Take care, Bill
PS: You are correct about it being COLD (with a capital C) in your neck of the woods. I think the lowest point of WY is around 4900 ft...
PPS: The 4.7l with its LONG oil filler neck is subject to the goop in a major way! We have that problem at work with some of the Dodges. One was so bad they had to take the goop out to put in more oil!
Bill,
Sure. I had a 2001 Dakota with the 4.7 that used to get the "goop" bad. And that was with M1.
I'm not disagreeing, just saying never had it with this engine.
Some engines do better since they may run warmer/have better PCV/ designed better for short trip operation.
But my major point is telling someone that if they run a more expensive oil will fix all their problems/issues is poor advice.
Advice that is often dispensed here with out thought.
Take care, Bill
PS: You are correct about it being COLD (with a capital C) in your neck of the woods. I think the lowest point of WY is around 4900 ft...
PPS: The 4.7l with its LONG oil filler neck is subject to the goop in a major way! We have that problem at work with some of the Dodges. One was so bad they had to take the goop out to put in more oil!
Yea, after the M1 did no good I just went back to PYB.
I'm in Green River, house is at 6400' and everything else from here in W. WY is up.
And like you, I too miss the Checkers conventional oil deals. Syns for .99 cents wasn't bad either.
I'm in Green River, house is at 6400' and everything else from here in W. WY is up.
And like you, I too miss the Checkers conventional oil deals. Syns for .99 cents wasn't bad either.
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
I've been running Castrol Syntec in my '08 CR-V, although the last oil change I used Valvoline Synpower since it was slightly cheaper. Following the maintenance minder, the oil changes happened at 10,000 miles, 19,000 miles and 29,0000 miles. I was a little surprised when I looked under the filler cap at 34,000 miles with 40% life left on the MM, and there is some brown, goopy stuff on the oil deflector and in some of the corners I can see under the filler cap. Compared to my '04 CR-V with the same engine, it doesn't look quite right. The only major difference is my '04 didn't have the MM and called for oil changes every 5,000 miles. So is the brown goopy stuff a bad thing? It's not overheating, oil consumption is zero (never had to add a drop since it was new!), and runs fine otherwise. I put in 5W-30 at the last oil change, and found the engine isn't as clattery when it's cold, but it had no noticeable difference in gas mileage.
The difference is 3 oil changes in 30,000 miles versus 6 oil changes in 30,000 miles. You really didn't think running oil to 10k was better than 5k did you? By 100k you will really notice a difference. These car companies can chuck the MM.
I've been running Castrol Syntec in my '08 CR-V, although the last oil change I used Valvoline Synpower since it was slightly cheaper. Following the maintenance minder, the oil changes happened at 10,000 miles, 19,000 miles and 29,0000 miles. I was a little surprised when I looked under the filler cap at 34,000 miles with 40% life left on the MM, and there is some brown, goopy stuff on the oil deflector and in some of the corners I can see under the filler cap. Compared to my '04 CR-V with the same engine, it doesn't look quite right. The only major difference is my '04 didn't have the MM and called for oil changes every 5,000 miles. So is the brown goopy stuff a bad thing? It's not overheating, oil consumption is zero (never had to add a drop since it was new!), and runs fine otherwise. I put in 5W-30 at the last oil change, and found the engine isn't as clattery when it's cold, but it had no noticeable difference in gas mileage.
The difference is 3 oil changes in 30,000 miles versus 6 oil changes in 30,000 miles. You really didn't think running oil to 10k was better than 5k did you? By 100k you will really notice a difference. These car companies can chuck the MM.
IMHO 10k miles is too much for conventional oil. It'll get past warranty just fine. In fact, it will probably still last 200k+. If we lived in a universe where we could examine identical engines, used by the same driver under identical circumstances and the engines torn down side by side with 5k and 10k oci's I'm sure there would be a big difference. I think Honda is pushing the limits of conventional oil with their MM or they know something Bitog data doesn't.
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