Valvoline Restore & Protect

[vegdude1515]

I read quite a bit of this thread but not all 133 pages.. forgive me if this has been asked before.. but is there any consensus or knowledge as to when is best to change it? I'm talking as somebody who drives maybe 3k miles a year (unfortunately TBH. I hate driving my car here in Vegas cause the heat/UV is very extreme [I treat my car like if it was my child] and also drivers on the road are so terrible here at any time you could be in an accident).
Is there any way it's beneficial to use the oil for 3-5k miles instead of changing it at like the 2k mile mark? Somehow it could build up something that makes it work even better to remove carbon deposits? Or is changing it at normal interval mark not more beneficial than changing it early? (I tell people to use their oil for the full mileage it's capable of, I just have a hard time doing that myself cause I like to work on my car)..
And of course when you drain & change the oil the first time R&P is added... not all of the old engine oil is drained out inevitably so it would take at least another change or more to make sure all of the oil in the engine is R&P.. is there any consensus on how long it takes to fully change the engine oil? I know transmission fluid a lot of people say 3x drain & fill should replace just about all of it, maybe 4x. Same for engine oil?

 

[YZJB]

I read quite a bit of this thread but not all 133 pages.. forgive me if this has been asked before.. but is there any consensus or knowledge as to when is best to change it? I'm talking as somebody who drives maybe 3k miles a year (unfortunately TBH. I hate driving my car here in Vegas cause the heat/UV is very extreme [I treat my car like if it was my child] and also drivers on the road are so terrible here at any time you could be in an accident).
Is there any way it's beneficial to use the oil for 3-5k miles instead of changing it at like the 2k mile mark? Somehow it could build up something that makes it work even better to remove carbon deposits? Or is changing it at normal interval mark not more beneficial than changing it early? (I tell people to use their oil for the full mileage it's capable of, I just have a hard time doing that myself cause I like to work on my car)..
And of course when you drain & change the oil the first time R&P is added... not all of the old engine oil is drained out inevitably so it would take at least another change or more to make sure all of the oil in the engine is R&P.. is there any consensus on how long it takes to fully change the engine oil? I know transmission fluid a lot of people say 3x drain & fill should replace just about all of it, maybe 4x. Same for engine oil?

If you drive 3k miles per year, just change it every year. Simple.

 

[ChrisD46]

What YZJB stated : Once per year oil change if only 3,000 miles per year usage . I believe for VRP to work best would be to try and include some longer 20+ mile interstate or highway runs in your vehicle where you have sustained speeds for longer distances after the engine has come up to temperature. I don’t know if VRP’s magic engine cleaner is heat activated but I would think that extreme short tripping and / or only 3,000 mile per year usage would equate to waiting quite awhile for VRP engine clean up . Lastly , challenge yourself to head out early when there is less traffic on the road for a nice ride out of Vegas on a semi - regular basis to visit a good rock formation , find a nice meal somewhere out of town , etc. to give you someplace to drive to .

 

[vegdude1515]

What YZJB stated : Once per year oil change if only 3,000 miles per year usage . I believe for VRP to work best would be to try and include some longer 20+ mile interstate or highway runs in your vehicle where you have sustained speeds for longer distances after the engine has come up to temperature. I don’t know if VRP’s magic engine cleaner is heat activated but I would think that extreme short tripping and / or only 3,000 mile per year usage would equate to waiting quite awhile for VRP engine clean up . Lastly , challenge yourself to head out early when there is less traffic on the road for a nice ride out of Vegas on a semi - regular basis to visit a good rock formation , find a nice meal somewhere out of town , etc. to give you someplace to drive to .

For sure, I understand that. About 5 miles to a destination and 5 miles back is the shortest trips I take, longest is usually not more than 10 miles each way though. Only drive 2 or 3 times a week typically. 141k miles on my car (I used to drive it more). I'm hoping within 18-24 months it could make a difference.
And I respect that challenge/recommendation, I should do a little more exploring while I still live here.

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

If you drive 3k miles per year, just change it every year. Simple.

Or every other year in a dry climate like Vegas.

 

[ATex7239]

Update: Checked on these while grabbing some Gumout for the Toyota. No visible change. I’ll use this black one that’s been soaking during the next change with VRP to see what happens while in service.

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Update: The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no change. Put on a black washer again this time. I predict the same results as before. The Toyota oil filter gasket has not been affected at all.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/post-your-latest-oil-change.108957/page-1216#post-7322538

 

[OVERKILL]

Update: The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no change. Put on a black washer again this time. I predict the same results as before. The Toyota oil filter gasket has not been affected at all.

A

Post in thread 'Post your latest oil change'

Friday at 11:18 AM

‘23 Toyota Sienna Hybrid XLE
47,447 miles / 5,587 miles OCI / 3 months
Out/In: Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20 / 90915-YZZN1

3rd run of VRP. Son did most of the work while I supported and supervised.

The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no...

• ATex7239

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Have you reported this to Valvoline? If not, it might be an idea.

 

[ATex7239]

Have you reported this to Valvoline? If not, it might be an idea.

My mama didn’t raise no Karen.

 

[tired]

Update: The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no change. Put on a black washer again this time. I predict the same results as before. The Toyota oil filter gasket has not been affected at all.

A

Post in thread 'Post your latest oil change'

Friday at 11:18 AM

‘23 Toyota Sienna Hybrid XLE
47,447 miles / 5,587 miles OCI / 3 months
Out/In: Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20 / 90915-YZZN1

3rd run of VRP. Son did most of the work while I supported and supervised.

The same story continues with the Toyota OEM drain plug washers. The blue type also left material behind. It appears VRP will take off the coating of both the black and blue type washers. No apparent leaks. However it’s something to be aware of as material can stick to the bolt and pan. Heat seems to be needed for this to happen as soaking them for a few months in a container caused no...

• ATex7239

• 

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This is interesting. Thanks for the report. I also use the blue Toyota crush washers for my truck. It was a little stuck to the drain plug, but it came off in one piece. (Not as bad as the Nissan OEM crush washer!! Very annoying to get off.) Nothing was stuck to my oil pan. This was VRP 5W-30 for about 2500 miles and 6 months.

 

[YotaGearhead]

Ran this in a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7 3UR engine. Engine had a plugged PCV for who knows how long. Initial R&P fill ran 5k miles and a ton of buildup was in the oil filter. Impressive for an initial fill but I’d use caution if you know your engine has a lot of buildup and shorten the OCI to avoid an oil filter restriction. Oil consumption went from 2+ qts on a 5k OCI to around 1qt. Also ran 5w30 R&P vs the 5w20 or 0w20 synthetic previously for full transparency.

 

[tired]

Ran this in a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7 3UR engine. Engine had a plugged PCV for who knows how long. Initial R&P fill ran 5k miles and a ton of buildup was in the oil filter. Impressive for an initial fill but I’d use caution if you know your engine has a lot of buildup and shorten the OCI to avoid an oil filter restriction. Oil consumption went from 2+ qts on a 5k OCI to around 1qt. Also ran 5w30 R&P vs the 5w20 or 0w20 synthetic previously for full transparency.

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Thanks for posting these. Great photos.

If you don't mind, how many miles? What is the oil change history?

 

[YotaGearhead]

Thanks for posting these. Great photos.

If you don't mind, how many miles? What is the oil change history?

185k miles, has been in my family since 130k and ran Mobil 1 or valvoline synthetics since I’ve owned it at 5k OCI. Previous long term owner primarily ran conventional every 5k. Good oil change history, plugged PCV caused excessive crankcase buildup prior to me owning.

 

[Carlostrece]

Ran this in a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7 3UR engine. Engine had a plugged PCV for who knows how long. Initial R&P fill ran 5k miles and a ton of buildup was in the oil filter. Impressive for an initial fill but I’d use caution if you know your engine has a lot of buildup and shorten the OCI to avoid an oil filter restriction. Oil consumption went from 2+ qts on a 5k OCI to around 1qt. Also ran 5w30 R&P vs the 5w20 or 0w20 synthetic previously for full transparency.

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That looks nasty!

 

[Sequoiasoon]

That looks nasty!

I think that is one of the examples of why many recommend doing a short OCI with a filter C&P if you don't know the history OR if you know it has a neglected history.

Prime version IMO of the oil brand X ruined my motor YT click baits. No that oil cleaned some stuff, neglect ruined it way back in time.

 

[Patrick0525]

Ran this in a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7 3UR engine. Engine had a plugged PCV for who knows how long. Initial R&P fill ran 5k miles and a ton of buildup was in the oil filter. Impressive for an initial fill but I’d use caution if you know your engine has a lot of buildup and shorten the OCI to avoid an oil filter restriction. Oil consumption went from 2+ qts on a 5k OCI to around 1qt. Also ran 5w30 R&P vs the 5w20 or 0w20 synthetic previously for full transparency.

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Am I correct to assume prior to VRP that ur 5K oc produced near zero sludge in the oil filter? I am surprised that ur synthetic oils did zero cleanup.

 

[kitchbow]

Do they state how much GTL base oil is in the 5w30 VRP formula ..... I also heard the ep/hm has a GTL base stock ........

 

[buster]

Ran this in a 2008 Sequoia with the 5.7 3UR engine. Engine had a plugged PCV for who knows how long. Initial R&P fill ran 5k miles and a ton of buildup was in the oil filter. Impressive for an initial fill but I’d use caution if you know your engine has a lot of buildup and shorten the OCI to avoid an oil filter restriction. Oil consumption went from 2+ qts on a 5k OCI to around 1qt. Also ran 5w30 R&P vs the 5w20 or 0w20 synthetic previously for full transparency.

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Lot of cleaning going on. Thanks for sharing.

 

[melk]

Impressive

 

[YotaGearhead]

Am I correct to assume prior to VRP that ur 5K oc produced near zero sludge in the oil filter? I am surprised that ur synthetic oils did zero cleanup.

Debris caught in the filter on previous oil changes was barely noticeable, I’d notice a couple small fragments here and there but I was definitely surprised this go around. A lot was knocked a lot loose over 5k miles. I’m also trying this out on a couple oil burning 2nd gen Prius’. Curious to see if it can clean up stuck rings.